[Gearhead forever]

I'm wondering if there is a thread on here that has the complete lowdown on acrylic enamels? I've only got the old DeVilbiss style pressure feed gun and want to make the switch to Acrylics.

The questions I really want to know are; (Bear with me, I've been away from the hobby for a while)


1) How much safer is spraying acrylics (in the garage with "home built" exhaust/filter setup

2) How do they perform compared to epoxies or other enamels?

3) Are gravity feed, stainless guns the best type of gun to use?

4) Do they make acrylic epoxies?

5) What are acrylics reduced with?


Apologies is there is already a thread on this - If someone could point me to a thread, I'd appreciate it

[jcclark]

Enamels are not safer to spray if you use an activator with them
which is strongly suggested. It will double the durability.

But acrylic enamels are the bottom end of the paint quality lines
as far as durability and are much harder to buff out and work with.
Most colors can't take much of a buffing without problems.
Very few still even use enamels, mostly the el-cheapo shops
you see advertising cheap paint jobs.
that's the only advantage enamels have, they're cheap.

You can get any type gun in gravity or siphon feed, HVLP,LVLP,
and conventionals, they come both ways. Any can spray nicely if it's a
reasonable quality gun and the painter knows how to use it.

Acrylic enamel and regular enamels can be reduced with
"acrylic enamel reducer"

For the small price difference I don't see why anyone would use acrylic
enamel when you can get urethane for just a little more and have
a really good durable finish. Night and day difference between them.
Enamels stay soft almost forever.

[Gearhead forever]

Thanks very much for the info - After reading your response, I realised that I might have asked the wrong question. Maybe I should have asked about waterborne paints - I assumed these were the same as acrylic(??)

I'm looking into waterborne paint more for general spray painting of steel products (non automotive). I'm looking for a safer and more envirionmentally responsible solution. I'm also not keen on having heavy solvents in my garage if I can avoid it as I do a fair bit of welding.

[AutoGear]

I can't say much; other than this. WaterBORNE paints are not non-toxic waterBASED paints; and as far as I know the waterBORNE paints still use a traditional bascoat clear as a topcoat.

Also, while I seriously commend your desire to 'do the right thing', these newer waterborne bases do not 'cure' well in a home garage. From what I've personally seen you need a dryer setup that apparently blows air across the panel to help evaporate things so the coat can cure.

My suggestion? 2 part epoxy the bare steel, then use a single stage urethane (optional: top with a universal clearcoat).

If these are small parts, what about powdercoating?

[Runnin'OnEmpty]

Originally Posted by Gearhead forever

.................
I'm looking into waterborne paint more for general spray painting of steel products (non automotive). I'm looking for a safer and more envirionmentally responsible solution. I'm also not keen on having heavy solvents in my garage if I can avoid it as I do a fair bit of welding.

There are several waterbased/borne paints available that might work
for you. They are mostly industrial and marine types. Here are some
brand names:

• Safecoat - DTM primer
  Sierra - Topcoats
  General Finishes - Crosslinker
  EcoProcoat - Topcoat, epoxy primer, clearcoat
  Ronan Aquathane - Clearcoat
  Sherwin Williams SherClear - Clearcoat
  System Three - Primer, topcoat, clear

Most of these have a health hazard rating of 1 and contain no
isocyanates. A search will provide more info on a particular brand.

AutoAir Colors is an option for automotive basecoat...