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Lower 33 Ply front end

4K views 27 replies 11 participants last post by  timothale 
#1 ·
I am building a hot rod from a 33 Ply 4 door. I have a 360 magnum w/727 installed. This car has parallel leaf front suspension and a solid tube axle. To simulate the ride height I want in the front, I removed all 6 leafs on each except the main and of course it can't support the front and the frame will sit on the axle. I Supported the frame with jack stands at the desired height.
Let me first say "I do NOT want to install any IFS". I want the original suspension look. I want to drop the front 3 to 5".
Delima:
1. Can't put the axle on top of the spring because it hits the frame and no room for cross steering without modifying a bunch of other stuff.
2. A single leaf is not cost effective to support the almost 1600lb front @ $300 each side

Removing the leafs gave almost 2 inches, which is enough for now. In the future I may put in a dropped axle when they become available for a 33 Ply.
Suggested solution: leave the main leaf on each side to hold the axle correctly under the frame and add coil-over shocks to support the front.
Weld shock mounts on the tube axle and side of frame to locate the shock over the axle (well...almost over). With the fenders on, the coil-overs will be hard to see. I can get 2 coil-overs for approx. $280

My question is:
Has anyone ever done this and are there any cons to this solution?
Will the single leaf be enough to hold the axle straight?
Any idea on the spring rate for the coil-overs (I was thinking 250 or 275).

Any other suggestions would be appreciated.
Thanks
 
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#9 ·
I did one a few years ago. I relocated the spring saddles on the axle out about 2" on each side, and fabricated new hangers to set outside the frame that dropped it about 3". I also switched it to cross steer, using a Unisteer rack to eliminate bump steer. It drives great.
 
#10 ·
You don't have enough room to move the springs outside the frame, and weld new perches on the axle. And I'm not sure that's a good option to do all the work and retain a stock axle. It would be better to pick up a dropped tube axle with more drop, and get the height you want, plus have better brakes, and new spindles, etc. I know it's a big step up on the budget, but might be the best way to really get the Plymouth down where you want it, and do it right.
 
#14 ·
Yea, I installed disc brakes. Its kinda hard to see in the pic. I found a website "RustyHope.com", that had the bushings and brake brackets. I had to get the rotor, caliper, and bearings but he gives you the list of needed parts. I got most parts for a 75 Diplomat with a chev caliper. Works real well but widens the trac about 2.5".
 

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#15 ·
I did add one leaf back that had the u-clamp riveted to the leaf and was surprise that it held the axle off the frame bumpers. But of course this is with an empty block/heads/intake and complete 727 trans. I figured another 150lbs with crank/pistons/radiator. I talked to some local hot rod guys at a meet last weekend. Several had done the same thing I was trying and said the only issue they had was getting the right spring rate on the coil-overs. They suggested I start at 225 but I am concerned it may be to soft and might start at 250 based on my front end weighting-in around 1650.
 
#16 ·
Hi Fordlover, Just want to tell you to please keep updating, this great info.
I finally got started on our '33 Plymouth Sedan, you build here should help me with a lot of my questions as well.
Please keep updating!! great stuff so far.

Enjenjo, please post a link to images or a thread on your build, your suggestions are interesting, I would like to see how it looks. Sound like it worked out for you. I would also love to see your car.

I don't think some people believe there is more than one way to skin a cat. It seems there is...

I may go the single spring route, but we'll see what happens.

great stuff guys!!

Keep it up.

Im pretty much building ground up, keeping the stock I-beam, 60's 8 3/4 Mopar rear end, '64 318 with 727 and Tri-power. May look into keeping the push-button tranny into a custom bezel.
I wanted to keep the stock steering but it looks like a unisteer is in my future as well.

The body will mostly stock.
I get to build this for my wife, but will be mostly for both of us.
 
#17 ·
I know its been a while, but to many projects. My '33 has been sitting except for getting the coil-overs mounted. I had a real time getting the to work right. Finally I turned them upside down (with the body /adjusters at the top). The shock would not compress with the body/adjusters at the bottom but will when at the top. That just sounds wrong but it works.

I just got my block back and will start putting the 360 magnum together after I get back from Carlisle, PA. I am going to find misc parts for the '33.

I added a couple of photos of a 40 Chevy ratrod, 350ci Chevy, turbo 350, and on a 2001 ford ranger frame with a 4:11 posi. It's a real fun drive...it will light-em up thru every shift.
 

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#18 ·
Turning the shocks upside down will only work if they are gas shocks. Sounds like something is wrong with your shocks.
I have coil overs on the front of my roadster w/225# springs. It is only 1100 on the front. Rides real nice. I'd say 225 is too light for your car. Probably 275 at least.
 
#19 · (Edited)
If you love Fords so much, I would have thought that you would know how to deal with this dilemma...
What you do is purchase a Ford hot rod dropped front axle, transverse spring and a Ford model A 1929 front cross member and install the front cross member into your chassis where you want the axle to sit.

It has been numerous times before by guys building non Ford hot rods.
Take a step back and check it out what the hot rod guys do.
The best thing is your car will ride better, you will get the ride height you like and all the parts are available at reasonable prices.

Then depending on your engine and chassis fit you could have the choice of push/pull style steering or cross steering.
The other choice now is a single ended rack which can be used in place of cross steering that is quite popular with some sectors of the hot rod community.
You will also need to decide whether you would like to run front hairpin radius type rods or a 4 bar system.

Do it once do it properly I say...

You will love this setup and it will be done right and tried and proven.
 
#22 ·
Lower 33 PLymouth

Von Mopar...yes I have looked at Butch's Cool Stuff.
Problems will be with steering. The dropped axle will cause the steering arms to be between the frame and spring with no vertical movement possible between for the tie rod. Yes, I could use dropped steering arms but it starts getting to be way more complicated than needed.
 

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#23 ·
OMG can't believe I've been goone this long

To update, I got rid of the coil overs. To stiff and not pretty. I found a manufacturer in SC that makes fiberglass springs for race cars. He made me some mono leaf springs to the 33 Plymouth specs to support 1300 lbs. They work perfect and so do the original 84 yr old shocks.
One pic shows the front suspension and the other shows the finish chassis that I finished this summer and am driving around (not on the street of course) to verify there are no mechanical problems. But I did take it to a show last week and drove it around. The Dodge Durango 360 magnum is pushing 450hp and sounds awesome with the flow-master exhaust. To bad I can't load a video of it running.
 

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#25 ·
Great that you solved your Problem :thumbup: 50 years ago LOL On my Plymouth I welded my spring saddles on the bottom of my axle and mounted my axle above the springs and added a little longer shackles to give me room between the frame and the axle for travel and it dropped my ride height a lot!

Jester
 
#27 ·
Since I have finished the chassis I am slowly trying to get all the cancer cut out and fixed so hopefully it'll be done and ready for paint summer 2018. Then I'll have to figure out how I'm paying for painting and upholstery. There are many choices around here for either.
 

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