Lower control arm hits Granada rotor on stock Mus II suspension - Hot Rod Forum : Hotrodders Bulletin Board
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Old 07-14-2006, 02:42 PM
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Lower control arm hits Granada rotor on stock Mus II suspension

I know that there are a few guys that have used stock Mus II upper and lower control arms and spindles. I am currently adapting the 99-01 Mustang twin piston aluminum caliper to the Mus II spindle. My work so far has consisted of mocking it up by attaching a piece of angle iron to an engine stand and mounting the spindle to the angle by either the lower ball joint hole or the tie rod end hole. Using the latter hole I decided to install the lower control arm to check for caliper interference. To my surprise I had interference with the rotor touching the very tip of the lower control arm. The contact occurred on the inner circumference of the rotor face about 1/4" into to path that the pads squeeze. Hope that is clear. This totally blindsided me as it is pretty much accepted that there is no interference there. Gdubstub and others (reading previous posts) I know that you at one time had the stock II lower arms on your frame. Did you have this problem? As far as I know a spacer is used only when using GM rotors. I had the control arm in a near level position in relation to the spindle being plumb. That should be where the suspension sets on a fully built truck or car for that matter. Can anyone running this setup look and see how close the tip of the lower control arm comes to your rotor? Has anyone else encountered this or heard of it?

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Old 07-14-2006, 03:50 PM
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I have granada rotors on my mus II, with no interfearence problems. Do you have the right bearing,s? I will dig up the instruction's for the kit and get back to you.
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Old 07-14-2006, 04:28 PM
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There is a possibility that my problem may lie in the powder coating that is inside the spindle ball joint taper. I haven't cleaned it out yet since I'm just mocking up to build the caliper bracket. I really can't see that cleaning the taper would allow the ball joint to seat that much further into the spindle BUT maybe it would. It appears to be nearly fully seated. The nuts they did for me has so much powder on it that a wrench no longer fits!!! Does any body know the taper on the ball joints. Would using a taper reamer be the eaisest way to remove the powder coat?
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Old 07-14-2006, 08:10 PM
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Tapered reamers from Speedway in Lincoln, NE.
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Old 07-15-2006, 06:39 AM
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I looked at a Chassis Engineering caliper bracket installation manual and under #2 it states that some Mus II lower control arms may have to be bent to fix interference issues with the rotor. If there is a slight chance that something will not fit it is a guarantee when I'm working on it. LOL I'll price the tapers and probably remove the PC too.
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Old 07-16-2006, 08:54 AM
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Most stock mustang 2 lower control arms will hit if the rotors are larger like 11", etc.

It's simply a matter of grinding the edge of the control are down for clearance.
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Old 07-17-2006, 11:43 PM
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I have been studying the NAPA catalogs and have found two rotors that interest me. The first is a 70-73 Mustang. It is only logical that it should fit as Ford didn't deliberately go out of it's way to reengineer the 74 on items they didn't have too. Same bearings and seal and only a little taller than the Granada rotor BUT it is 11 1/4" AND it is thicker than the Granada which is a plus as the 99' caliper was for a 1" thick rotor. The 70-73 Mustang is .944 where the Granada is .888 inches thick. I checked it tonight and it fits the spindle with no problems But it still barely hits the lower control arm. The larger inner diameter of the rotor face did help BUT I still need a little more clearance.

The second is from a 70' Thunderbird and again it has the same bearings and seal BUT it is 11 3/4" and (the bad part)I believe it will require sinking the outer race. I do believe that if it fits the spindle it will not hit the lower control arm. At this point I do not know the thickness yet. I will try to get one tomorrow and check it.

I have one wild card. A 12 1/8 inch rotor off of a 97-02 Ford Expediton. The height is perfect and will not require sinking the outer bearing. It has the same outer bearing but a different inner one. I don't know what the difference is yet. With all that said one person said he tried to duplicate what I'm doing (from Woody's Fairlane site) and it simply wouldn't work due too interference between the caliper and the control arms both upper and lower. I believe that the larger the rotor the better my chances are of adapting the caliper without interference.
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Old 07-25-2006, 01:59 PM
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New Update 7/25/06

Here are the most recent developments.

The 11 1/4" 70 Mustang bolts up but still hits the lower control arm even after I did some delicate massaging of the tip of the lower control arm. The primary reason for this is the increased thickness of the rotor which is a plus but in this situation it becomes a negative due to the clearance issues. After consideration I will not use this rotor. Minimal gain and I never really did figure out how to gain the clearance needed. Possibly an inner bearing spacer that is used on the Mus II spindle when running the GM rotor would solve the problem but it may space the grease seal to far out.

The 12 1/8" Expedition rotor while it is the same height, it does not have the same bearing spacing and the inner bearing would require a special but available bearing. The outer bearing would have to be sunk and I have not been able to find a grease seal that would fit. I'm sure that the grease seal could be addressed by a press in adapter to the rear of the rotor. It probably would require machining to the rotor but if you have to sink the outer you could get it done all at the same time. The final straw here is the 5 x 135 mm bolt pattern. It would probably require a special rear axle to have a matching bolt pattern. A plus is that the rotor would give you the same track width as the Granada rotor. It also has a Big problem that it shares with the Thunderbird rotor and I will address in the next section. Due to the excessive adaptation needed I will not use this rotor.

The 11 3/4" 70-71 Thunderbird rotor is the top contender. It bolts up and uses the OEM bearings and seals. There is STILL some minor clearance issues but I believe they are resolvable. Tonight I need to check were the oils seal rides on the spindle. It looks a little close so I'll check it and report. It will require the outer bearing to be sunk apx. 1/4" and originally I was hesitant to do that but now this project has pissed me off and I realize that I will never drive this truck enough to wear out a rotor so I'm going to continue to concentrate on this rotor and treat it as a Money Pit. Now there is one big problem with it. It is apx 1.15" thick and the 99-01 Mustang caliper was designed for a one inch thick rotor. My solution to this is to mill whatever is required, probably .075, off of each pad. I now that that will make them not last as long but I believe I have addressed that. I'll get three sets done at the same time and probably pass them on to whoever inherits this project after I leave this world. No I'm not dieing but let's face it I have been working on it for about five years and I still haven't painted the frame and I'm no spring chicken. I think that I can make a jig and do the pads with a router table after all it is just a high speed mill that is up side down and they do make carbide bits for them. I'll try it with an old pad first and see.

If y'all are following this let me hear your comments.
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Old 07-25-2006, 02:26 PM
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Where it hits on the backside is it towards the spindle? If so have a little meat turend out of the backside of the rotor if its hitting towards the inside edge of rotor and clearence the control arm some more. Easy fix.
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