Lower mustang makin noises
I own a lowered 95 mustang GT that has been lowered 3 inches with 4 eibach coils and koni shocks. It has 80k orig miles and has never been in any accidents. In the last 8 months I have replaced almost all of the components in my suspension and had camber casters installed to correct the negitve camber in the front end.
Now the problem I am having is that the drive shaft is so much closer to the body of the car when i give it the gusto i can feel the drive shaft rubbing on what appears to be the emergency brake cable near the rear of thr car. The point of contact is clearly marked into the drive shaft in three or four places. I have considered having the body moved to give more room . If any one has experienced this or something like it I would realy like some input please.
[quote]Now the problem I am having is that the drive shaft is so much closer to the body of the car when i give it the gusto i can feel the drive shaft rubbing on what appears to be the emergency brake cable near the rear of thr car.<hr></blockquote>
Are you sure it is the emergency brake cables that are rubbing as the cables are routed away from the driveshaft at the rear of the car?
What type of traction control are you using? Being lowered this way, hard acceleration is most likely causing excessive pinion angle tilt pushing the driveshaft closer to the tunnel than it should be.
You might want to consider modified/adjustible rear control arms with hardened bushings and some type of adjustible pinion snubber.
Let me know if this makes sense. :D
I have replaced the snubber with an shorter harder one but I do not know much about the dynamics of control arms or bushings. I had actually mentioned my control arms to the ford mechanic but he quickly discounted it saying" it shouldn't affect the car in the way I described".
However short of a new drive shaft, control arms, and diff everything else is new.
I am willing to entertain enlargement of the tunnel. But I wouldn't have a clue where to get that type of modification, not so many reputable hot rod shops in Canada as the good ole USA , too many woosies here I guess.
I have since had the cables rerouted and the exhaust adjusted ...... but the rubbing and hopping continues much to my dismay.
If you think control arms are the way, can you recommend a good brand , or should i use motor sport? Hell any advice at this point is really appreciated.
[ April 01, 2003: Message edited by: Greasy-fingers ]</p>
[quote]I have since had the cables rerouted and the exhaust adjusted ...... but the rubbing and hopping continues much to my dismay.<hr></blockquote>
You are going to have to determine what and where it is rubbing. A tunnel enlargemant is going to be expensive and unecessary in my opinion. Either rebushed, modified or aftermarket control arms will not allow as much pinion wrapup and the moving of the shaft closer to the tunnel. They will also maintain better pinion angle on acceleration/deacceleration.
Aftermarket adjustable control arms on the rear (just upper would do the trick) will allow you to bring everything back into alignment, and should eliminate the problem. Think about it this way -- you needed camber casters to correct the front end because the arms are now at different angles than designed because of the drop. You dropped the rear end to, right? So you need to alter the length of the upper (or lower) arms to make the rear sit closer to the same angle it would stock. It's a little more complicated than that because of the driveshaft. Basically you need the pinion shaft (where the driveshaft connects to the rear axle) parallel or just a little "nose down" from the transmission. Changing the control arm lengths will get you there. You can buy all four adjustable or just upper or lower, either will do what you need. I over simplified this a bit, but this will get you in the ball park and will work. Trying to figure all the angles is a lot of work and can be confusing -- this "rule of thumb" approach is easier and as I said -- it will work fine for a street car. A road racer would need to be a bit more exact.
-This URL might explain the theory more easily.
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