[Odo]

Hi, I have a 2000 Ford F150 P.U. step side. I was wondering what I needed to do to lower the body. The truck currently has 17" tires and wheels on it now. I was considering useing 15" wheels and tires to bring the body down a little but I don't think I will be getting the effect I want. Will I need a lowering kit? If so which would be the best? Thanks inadvanced for any and all comments.

Steve (Odo)

[Deuce]

As a moderator here, I would like to WELCOME you here....

2000 Fords are a little new for me......to work on but I know a lot of our members have experience on the later model Fords..... ( I am a 30's kind of guy )

Again..WELCOME....

DEUCE

[curtis73]

Just finished exactly what you're planning on a 99 F150.

Don't worry about wheels and tires. If you get 15 wheels, you'll just be getting larger tires to keep the same diameter or your speedo, odometer, and other junk will be out of whack.

The right way to do it is to order parts from a company like BelTech. The rear is dirt simple. You buy rear spring shackles that let the stock springs sit up higher. The shackles come from the company with two or three holes drilled in them. The first hole is something like 2", the next one is 3" or 4" drop, etc. My buddy and I chose the 2" for his F150.

The front can be done a couple ways, each about the same cost and hassle. You can order drop springs which involves disassembling the bottom half of the front suspension (read up on that before you jump in, it takes common sense and caution) and replacing the coil springs. When you're done, the suspension geometry will be far enough out of spec that it won't have enough adjustment flexibility to get back to acceptable. The same company that sold you the front springs can sell you a kit with parts that the alignment shop can put on during the alignment. Expect about $150-200 for an alignment with the extra labor.

The other way to do the front is with drop spindles. Its a bit more expensive parts and maybe time, but the benefit is that you keep the same ride, alignment and geometry, its just that the spindle itself it higher in the knuckle, meaning the truck sits lower.

The drop springs will be a bit stiffer to prevent bottoming out and to prevent over-articulation. When you use springs to drop the truck, you alter its geometry since the control arms are no longer in their originally engineered position. Stiffening the springs helps correct that by not allowing much suspension movement which prevents odd camber curves. But, the stiffer springs improve weight transfer and the handling of the truck.

The drop spindles keep the same ride quality and handling will improve slightly by lowering the center of gravity. The big benefits are stock geometry and stock ride quality. The drop springs stiffen the ride and change the geometry, but they dramatically improve handling if that's one of your goals.

You should also consider purchasing shocks that match your new suspension height and travel. Many will be fine, but when you alter the distance from the frame to the axle (lower the truck) you change the effective range of its travel. For instance, the rear may have traveled between 18 and 23", but after you lower it, it will move between 16 and 21". Its fine if your shocks can compress to 16" but if they don't you may bottom out, damage a shock, or the mount.

I'll try to find a picture of my buddy's F150 on the web and post a link later so you can see it.