[zildjian4life218]

bump... anyone?

[OLNOLAN]

Hey Man, Not sure where you're going with this? I thought you were milling the manifold to put a distributor in it. If you want to go crank trigger here is some interesting stuff on Lt1 conversions from optispark to multi-coil. Seems like you're looking for a low buck conversion because you can buy aftermarket conversions for Gen 1 right off the shelf. Anyway, maybe this is food for thought. olnolan
http://www.gmhightechperformance.com...ing/index.html

[zildjian4life218]

Originally Posted by OLNOLAN

Hey Man, Not sure where you're going with this? I thought you were milling the manifold to put a distributor in it. If you want to go crank trigger here is some interesting stuff on Lt1 conversions from optispark to multi-coil. Seems like you're looking for a low buck conversion because you can buy aftermarket conversions for Gen 1 right off the shelf. Anyway, maybe this is food for thought. olnolan
http://www.gmhightechperformance.com...ing/index.html

I was going to cut the hole for he distrbutor but was worried about running into issues with the height and angle issues

[bonetank1]

if you are still trying to figure the shim its .250 to .050 angled from driver to pass. side

[airboat]

You also need to at least re-drill the holes to bolt the intake down and clearance them. I welded in the originals... all but 4 of them at least.. You are lucky and have a mill. If you are using a Gen I with egr openings you will have to weld the intake so it will cover the opening and plug it or plug the heads. Once intake isn't getting exhaust gas you can use epoxy to seal the vacuum side and make the egr exhaust port look nicer.. Same thing with the water crossover ports. Since the LT1 doesn't have any in order to fully cover the holes in the head you will need to weld up the intake there also, front and back. I put my water outlets at the rear of the heads. I used crank trigger and I built an oil pump drive out of an old distributor however the plastic one is prone to breaking the hold down bolt lug off, coming out of the hole and ruining peoples days by giving you no oil pressure. You also don't need to mill for distributor clearance if you use crank trigger or use a small diameter distributor instead of HEI.
Labor of love however worth it as it's the only thing that would go under the hood of my Porsche 944 and LT1's have been stupidly priced up here.. You also need to build or buy a housing for the thermostat to connect to the heads and radiator.. What else? Pretty much it I think..

[TroyBoy]

Cool ideas. Keep us posted

[ap72]

The vortec cover should work, BUT you still need a controller to advance the timing. Since you're going efi just get a controller that can do both, either modify a stock system or run megasquirt.

As far as welding goes, just do a little at a time to avoid heat build up- as if you were working on body panels. It also helps to preheat the aluminum in an oven or propane grill.

Good luck on your endeavors and keep us posted.

[airboat]

where you are welding just make sure the aluminum is as clean as you can get. I used a pickling/ muriatic acid or something however die grinder where you weld would work too. You know when you hit dirt. Get a Gen 1 intake gasket and compare where bolt holes are etc. Like I said 4 bolts have same spacing however Angle of the bolt holes are different too. you could get lucky depending on port size not welding the coolant but I thought it was real close to a leak so i added above and below the coolant ports. same thing exhaust however if you don't have exhaust crossover ports it's not a consideration.

[zildjian4life218]

Originally Posted by bonetank1

if you are still trying to figure the shim its .250 to .050 angled from driver to pass. side

Awesome thank you. Do I just run the mill down to the intake where the distributor goes and recut a flat spot on it or does that shim sit on the intake the way it is now? I know thats a weird way to word it.