[Jim Rockford]

Glad to help ...

[cobalt327]

Originally Posted by louis165

Jim you wouldn't by any chance know the cc of the vortec dish piston would you?

From another thread earlier:

I found the notes from the Vortec engine (880 block) I pulled apart recently. The piston on that engine has an 11cc round dish and is 0.080" deep.

FWIW, my pistons were spotless, and I measured pretty carefully. But 1/2 cc won't make that much difference either way.

[Jim Rockford]

damn .080 is pretty deep, wonder if that was checking all 8 or just one...
I'll check mine toda i'll do the 2 front cyls.

[cobalt327]

Originally Posted by Jim Rockford

damn .080 is pretty deep, wonder if that was checking all 8 or just one...
I'll check mine toda i'll do the 2 front cyls.

The depth is less important than the volume being 10.5-11 cc, right? I mean, w/a round dish all the quench action is lost where the dish is even if it were half that depth. If anything the diameter of the dish would be more important than the depth, unless you have something else in mind...

[Jim Rockford]

I got .024 deep in the hole on both sides...

Sorry missed the new post.. You want to get the deepest part of the piston as close to the head as possible with out any part of the piston touching the head..lol so Depth plays a decent part in the equation.

[Jim Rockford]

well got around to tearing the vortec apart and come to find out the block is ruined... the #4 main bearing spun in the block and they much have just kept on driving it with the crank broken...so its scrap.






The rear main bearing was turned in the bore and I had to beat the back part of the crack and bearing out with a hammer.

So I think I'm just going to suck it up and buy a carbed LT1 intake and refresh this LT1 I have, took it apart and it is super clean in the bottom end..



it came out of a grandma roadmaster that had some fire under the hood, but the engine didn't get very hot, hell all the front seals are still there and the block still has the factory powdercoating on it, so Its gonna be a nice engine. has no slop in the timing chain.

[TroyBoy]

Looks like a nice engine. Its just a crying shame the vortec was toast.

[Jim Rockford]

Just glad I didn't shell out any money for it..lol I Did give a hundred bucks for the LT1 though... I think it might be worth that.

[Jim Rockford]

Anyone have a spare carb intake for the LT1 laying around?

[Jim Rockford]

Originally Posted by Jim Rockford

Just picked up a(nother) sweet 77 impala coupe. has a decent running 305 2 brl engine in it now,but I'm looking do do a budget 350 i have a vortec 350 short block that has a bad bottom end, haven't pulled the pan yet to see if It can be saved, but I also have a very low mileage lt1 that came out of a road master with an electrical fire, few burn sensors , but that all, wondering about installing the pistons rods and crank into the vortec block and topping it with a set of l98 heads I have laying around and a used edelbrock performer .. What do you guys think...?
any thoughts on a good roller cam?

Why is my thread in Hotrodding basics It should be in the engine section... please move it .

[cobalt327]

Clean! That thing needs a BBC

[Jim Rockford]

Originally Posted by cobalt327

Clean! That thing needs a BBC

I'd like to be able to corner it man,,lol Big block is just too heavy.

[Jim Rockford]

well just won a almost new ZZ4 cam....should be alittle more power than the small b body cam.

[rootdmann]

I have an LT1 with a carb intake in my chevy c30. I'm actually thinking of converting it back to fuel injection using a megasquirt. I could have purchased a megasquirt for about the price I paid for the carb intake, but I didn't because of the horror stories I heard about the opti-spark distributor.


The main problem I have with the carb intake is that the truck runs the best when the outside temp is in the high 80's or higher. It's like the intake doesn't get hot enough and the fuel doesn't vaporize.

My LT1 is out of a B body also (Police car). I have a stick shift, and if I had an automatic with around 1600-1800 rpm stall it probably wouldn't be a big deal. With the stick I tend to drive around town at 1200-1500 RPM and it doesn't want to pull smoothly at that RPM unless you really ease into the throttle.

I've had 3 different carbs on the truck and they all had problems. Quadrajet would bog when opening the throttle in neutral, and a vacuum secondary Holley 750 and also a 650 double pumper. The double pumper has annular discharge boosters and is fully adjustable with air bleeds (and I've made tons of changes to try and get it right).

The carb intake pull very hard once I get past about 1800 rpms. The B body cam falls off probably around 4000 RPMs but the engine will easily rev to around 6000 doing a burnout (yes, it's a dually!).

Oh yeah, and the LT1 can be a bit picky about gas. Even with 93 octane I have to watch out for detonation. But my vehicle weighs 5500 pounds. It also seems to like a good amount of advance. I probably need to get my advance curve in sooner (I have a stock accel HEI replacment).

I had to notch the truck's frame to clear the A/C delete pully also. I bought the A/C delete pulley and the pulley was huge. I went back to autozone and then bought a smaller pulley (they sell just plain pulley's and they let me look through the boxes until I found one that would work) and mounted it onto the A/C delete bracket I bought. Then I cut the stock belt and guestimated how long a new belt needed to be with the smaller pulley and bought that from autozone. It works perfectly.

It definitely has good power. Not like a big block but decent.

Cheers,

Dan

[joelster]

Those LT1 carb intakes are pretty rare. GM was the only company that made them, since there is no real aftermarket for them. Lots of guys convert sbc intakes to fit. The middle 2 bolt holes on each side are different. Make sure your LT1 is actually an LT1 though. They made a "baby LT1" called an L99 that is actually a 4.3 liter V-8. It was put into some Caprices, i'm not sure on the Roadmasters though.