Long time lurker, first time poster.
My name is James imp:, I'm from Green Bay, WI. 5'11 250
I hope I'm welcome here with my little 2000 lb car. FYI it is not a baby vette. Mine was designed before the stingray... I;m rounding 3rd on a restoration and could sure use some guidance. I knew very little about engines and timing when this started, now i barely know enough to understand. But I am very handy with a wrench.
I'm throwing in the towel on this one. Calling in the troops. First one to help me get my motor running right wins an Exclusive, super, 7 course meal at you local Carl Junior or Hardee's. No seriously, I will buy a lovely dinner at a super fancy restaurant of YOUR choice for you and your Wife, or in some cases you and your doll. I'm Thinking $100, unless you really go the extra mile, maybe $200.
I cannot for the life of me, get my motor to run on the idle circuit.
Im almost doubling stock hp of 75ish with this mod. 75 stock HP at flywheel that is!! This is why these cars arent more respected. A General Motors car, designed in France, built in Germany, imported and sold at Buick dealers etc...
It will not even idle on its own under 11-1200. and it wont be smooth unless it is advanced nearly 30-40 degrees. Even then it is well into the throttle. I had the same problem last fall, but thought it would idle closer to 15* btdc. If I try to get it close to 10-20 btdc it will shake and die. Idle screw has to be nearly all the way in. funny thing is Air adjustment screw is within spec and effects idle.
Details as follows. Extra info in case its needed. And some opel specific or inside jokes for Opel forumstuff that doesnt pertain to you hotrodders!
20 miles/3hours on rebuild
good compression, 152ish across the board
2.0 pistons
Dots all line up, including cam sprocket
Small block Chevy valves
OR 66 Combo cam but ground by Norris * have to find my Norris cam card, but here is Isky info. Intake 24/64 exhaust 80/40 Valve lift .430 duration at .050 228
New Hydraulic lifters, new springs, new valve seals, new retainers etc, hardened valve seats, equal spring heights,
Valve lash has been done thrice times.
New timing chain and guides
Oil pressure 3 bars
New Weber 32/36 jetted per Tekenaar
RallyBob tented intake.
1975 distributor
Bosch Supers gapped at .35
new cap, rotor, wires and pertronix at .30. 12v switched direct to each pertronix and coil
fresh 91 octane no ethanol gas
carter e pump regulated at 3 psi
tank is clean and lined
no bindage in throttle.
copper sprayed intake/exhaust gasket NO LEAKS! quadruple checked.
Both brake booster and carb advance port capped off
Ceramic headers to 5 ft of 2 inch exhaust with cherry bomb muffler going out the side of car.
Only way vacuum at carb advance port goes above 10* is if it advanced nearly 30 degrees. Vacuum gauge indicates late timing. and can get to go up to 20 vacuum with no pinging
This is all according to harbor freight timing gun with advance.
I did not measure head before putting back together. I am afraid that it is too thin?? I have tried everything to remedy the situation and am quite handy. I have been no slouch both wrenching and researching how to fix this. I have tried different distributors. Points versus pertronix, caps, rotors, plugs, intake gaskets. jetting, it Did same with Weber 38 too.
No funny noises, even sounds strong.
Things left to try
put change in left pocket and dance the jig
different intake
adjustable cam sprocket
advance cam one tooth
different cam altogether
I knew zilch before this motor, so bear with me. It is looking like one of those situations where the cam needs to be degreed and/or holes drilled in throttle plates?
Go Packers!
*This offer not available in Kentucky, Puerto Rico, Antigua, Nigeria, anywhere in France, Nova Scotia or Puget Sound, Somalia and Oregon. Value meal will be upsized to a large if your name is Keith, Gordon, Pedro. Movie tickets included if your name is Bob. Meal will be downsized to kiddie if your name is george. Reward cannot be redeemed if answers are cryptic and confusing, and only for your demented pleasure.
My name is James imp:, I'm from Green Bay, WI. 5'11 250
I hope I'm welcome here with my little 2000 lb car. FYI it is not a baby vette. Mine was designed before the stingray... I;m rounding 3rd on a restoration and could sure use some guidance. I knew very little about engines and timing when this started, now i barely know enough to understand. But I am very handy with a wrench.
I'm throwing in the towel on this one. Calling in the troops. First one to help me get my motor running right wins an Exclusive, super, 7 course meal at you local Carl Junior or Hardee's. No seriously, I will buy a lovely dinner at a super fancy restaurant of YOUR choice for you and your Wife, or in some cases you and your doll. I'm Thinking $100, unless you really go the extra mile, maybe $200.
I cannot for the life of me, get my motor to run on the idle circuit.
It will not even idle on its own under 11-1200. and it wont be smooth unless it is advanced nearly 30-40 degrees. Even then it is well into the throttle. I had the same problem last fall, but thought it would idle closer to 15* btdc. If I try to get it close to 10-20 btdc it will shake and die. Idle screw has to be nearly all the way in. funny thing is Air adjustment screw is within spec and effects idle.
Details as follows. Extra info in case its needed. And some opel specific or inside jokes for Opel forumstuff that doesnt pertain to you hotrodders!
20 miles/3hours on rebuild
good compression, 152ish across the board
2.0 pistons
Dots all line up, including cam sprocket
Small block Chevy valves
OR 66 Combo cam but ground by Norris * have to find my Norris cam card, but here is Isky info. Intake 24/64 exhaust 80/40 Valve lift .430 duration at .050 228
New Hydraulic lifters, new springs, new valve seals, new retainers etc, hardened valve seats, equal spring heights,
Valve lash has been done thrice times.
New timing chain and guides
Oil pressure 3 bars
New Weber 32/36 jetted per Tekenaar
RallyBob tented intake.
1975 distributor
Bosch Supers gapped at .35
new cap, rotor, wires and pertronix at .30. 12v switched direct to each pertronix and coil
fresh 91 octane no ethanol gas
carter e pump regulated at 3 psi
tank is clean and lined
no bindage in throttle.
copper sprayed intake/exhaust gasket NO LEAKS! quadruple checked.
Both brake booster and carb advance port capped off
Ceramic headers to 5 ft of 2 inch exhaust with cherry bomb muffler going out the side of car.
Only way vacuum at carb advance port goes above 10* is if it advanced nearly 30 degrees. Vacuum gauge indicates late timing. and can get to go up to 20 vacuum with no pinging
This is all according to harbor freight timing gun with advance.
I did not measure head before putting back together. I am afraid that it is too thin?? I have tried everything to remedy the situation and am quite handy. I have been no slouch both wrenching and researching how to fix this. I have tried different distributors. Points versus pertronix, caps, rotors, plugs, intake gaskets. jetting, it Did same with Weber 38 too.
No funny noises, even sounds strong.
Things left to try
put change in left pocket and dance the jig
different intake
adjustable cam sprocket
advance cam one tooth
different cam altogether
I knew zilch before this motor, so bear with me. It is looking like one of those situations where the cam needs to be degreed and/or holes drilled in throttle plates?
Go Packers!
*This offer not available in Kentucky, Puerto Rico, Antigua, Nigeria, anywhere in France, Nova Scotia or Puget Sound, Somalia and Oregon. Value meal will be upsized to a large if your name is Keith, Gordon, Pedro. Movie tickets included if your name is Bob. Meal will be downsized to kiddie if your name is george. Reward cannot be redeemed if answers are cryptic and confusing, and only for your demented pleasure.