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Old 02-23-2004, 04:02 PM
Bluepen's Avatar
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M II Frontend, Whats wrong here

OK, I'm not the brightest bulb in the store and its been a very long time since I put a car togeather and I think I've done something wrong, I just don't know what. I'm building a '46 Chevy Panel truck with a SBC 350/400TH and I put a M II frontend under it. Well its wet and rainy today so I thought I'd finish the frontend up by putting the sway bar on and I noticed some things wrong. The ball joint, upper and lower, are at sharpe angles. The boots on the lowers are torn and the lower "A" frame is rubbing up against the brake rotor. Now its never been on the street yet just rolled it out of the garage once. I didn't see this before now but I can fix it(I hope). Maybe I put the spindles on the wrong side and upside down?? I could have this was a first for me. Anybody know what I did wrong??

Thanks
David

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Old 02-23-2004, 04:21 PM
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I think everything is OK. The rubber is just rotted from sitting idle under stress. The other 'problems' are simply the result of the springs being unloaded and the suspension being extended way past the normal operating range. Best way to analyze how things will be when the car is done is by taking out the springs and setting the lower A-frame horizontal. That is how it will be in operation. Incidentally, you need to tune the springs so that the car will sit with the lower A-arm horizontal when the car is finished. This may require cutting off a coil or even finding a different strength spring.
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Old 02-23-2004, 05:34 PM
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I agree. I would also check which springs you have. Chances are you don't need more than the 4 cyl. w/air springs in a street rod.

Centerline
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Old 02-23-2004, 08:34 PM
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I agree with Willys. You can't get the spindles up side down or backwards and hook up your steering rack rod ends!!! Also, the threads sticking above the nuts on the ball joints look correct (no cotter pins yet, but they will go in). Can't tell how far back your motor /tranny is sitting, but that position has a lot to do with how your spring combo works. If your harmonic balancer is near the middle of the cross member (front to back) or farther back you can get by with 4 cylinder springs. If it is forward of the center point, V6 springs may better serve you. You may not be able to make that determination until you have the car completed and at ride weight.

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Old 02-23-2004, 10:43 PM
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Question

Have you checked your wheel turn stop to stop to insure those brake lines aren't hitting/rubbing?

This chart may help you on your front spring selection;

-EATON MUST II Coil Springs-

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Old 02-24-2004, 08:02 AM
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I should have added

I should have added that there is no front sheet metal on the truck right now also. I don't know if this will make that much of a difference, it might because the fenders, grille and running boards are pretty big.
The engine is set with the balancer in front of the cross member a little about, 2" or so. The brake lines are not hooked up yet, gotta wait till I get the steering column in place so I can run the front lines. The springs are the ones that came with the kit and nothing was said about tuning them or anything so I guess I'll wait till I get all the sheet metal and things on to see if that makes a change in anything, Then I'll probably take a coil or so out to get the ride height and angles right.
Thanks for all the info folks, at least my heart rate in back down to near normal now.

David
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Old 02-27-2004, 04:30 PM
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Level

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You might try moving the top A outward away form center. This should take some stress off the assembly. My 41 sat for a year and the boot never deteriorated like that. But it all looks right.

hr41pearl

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Old 02-28-2004, 07:48 AM
aka Duke of URL
 
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Arrow

It looks to me also that the dust boots are just dry rotted. Ball joints OK?

-This- is a source of replacement (urethane) ball joint/tie rod end boots if the joints themselves are good.

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