Maaco vs. At-Home Paint Job - Page 4 - Hot Rod Forum : Hotrodders Bulletin Board
Hotrodders.com -- Hot Rod Forum



Register FAQ Search Today's Posts Unanswered Posts Auto Escrow Insurance Auto Loans
Hot Rod Forum : Hotrodders Bulletin Board > Tech Help> Body - Exterior
User Name
Password
lost password?   |   register now

View Poll Results: What Should I Do For A Paint Job?
Maaco Paint Job 35 19.23%
At-Home Paint Job 147 80.77%
Voters: 182. You may not vote on this poll

Reply
 
LinkBack Thread Tools
  #46 (permalink)  
Old 01-17-2004, 08:21 PM
Member
 
Last photo:
Join Date: Nov 2003
Location: Green Bay, WI
Age: 44
Posts: 2,073
Wiki Edits: 0

Thanks: 0
Thanked 6 Times in 6 Posts
Your list looks good. Have your painter decide if he wants to shoot a sealer. Its really your decision and if you want to spend the extra money. I am not sure on the price of the primer, because I have bought Marhyde primer lately. I am guessing the clear will run in the $150 range. I can tell your ready to paint this thing now, lol. I still get excited about painting, and I have no idea how many cars I've sprayed. Well unless something goes really bad, which most often it doesn't. All the work is time consuming but I like it. Make sure you estimate your last coat of the color and the clear close when you mix it with the reducer and hardener, because any extra mixed will harden up and can't be used later.

    Advertisement
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
  #47 (permalink)  
Old 01-17-2004, 08:30 PM
nightrain_rod's Avatar
Blue Oval Finatic
 
Last photo:
Join Date: Apr 2003
Location: Tennessee
Age: 25
Posts: 229
Wiki Edits: 0

Thanks: 0
Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts
Yes sir,I'm ready to paint .

I just printed some product sheets,and I found the primer that I think that I'll get.It's PPG's DZL Primer Surfacer.I looked at the product sheets on it and also the sheets on the DAR that you gave me and they're compatible with each other.Now I just have to find some clear.

PPG doesn't have any product sheets on their clears at their website.I think that I'll go with that 2020 Concept that you reccomended.Will that work for my application?If the primer isn't expensive,I think that I'll just get Robert to shoot a coat on the Ranger before he applies the first coat of paint just to insure that it will bond correctly.It's better to be safe than sorry.So,if I go that route,just rough up the original paint,spray the primer,paint,clear,and go.Is that right?Do I still need to have a sealer shot between the sanding and the primer?

What do you use to clean up the vehicle's body after you finish sanding?What grit do you reccomend most to sand the original paint,and wet or dry?He'll know what to do on those dents.I'm not going to get into those lol.Yes,this seems to be time consuming work,but hey,it's something that gets me going.Plus,your ride looks alot better when you finish.What do you use to dry your vehicles when you finish washing them?

Before I started this thread,my knowledge on painting a vehicle was limited,but with the help of you and the other members that cared to drop in and post some advice really helped.Of course,I'm still going to let Robert do this job.He just might have a partner hanging around though .

Nightrain
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
  #48 (permalink)  
Old 01-17-2004, 09:21 PM
Member
 
Last photo:
Join Date: Nov 2003
Location: Green Bay, WI
Age: 44
Posts: 2,073
Wiki Edits: 0

Thanks: 0
Thanked 6 Times in 6 Posts
find any areas that are going to need bodywork and mark them. Feather out any chips or scratches. Sand the whole truck.400 wet will give you a little better finish, but time consuming. You could take a da with 320 for speed and go over it with 400 wet if you want a slicker surface. They also make da's that are used to wetsand with if you want to buy one of them. After you have it all sanded blow off the car well or wash it and dry. Check for any spots that still have shine and sand them. You can use a scotchbrite pad in hard to sand spots. When you have it all sanded take it and have your guy do the bodywork. When he is priming his bodywork areas have him check the feathered areas and see if they are gonna need a shot of primer. After the primer is all blocked and straight, sand the last coat of primer with 400 wet. Wash the car with a little dishwashing soap and water. Blow out all the cracks good. When its good and dry do any masking you have to do. Take a wax and grease remover over the surface and then tack. Shoot on your sealer, One coat usually will do. After enough time has passed tack. Spray on your color coats with flash in between. You don't have to sand the sealer if everything goes right. After you have your color coats on and its all covered, wait the right amount of time and spray 3 coats of clear with flash between coats. Wet sand with 1000 or 1500 out any dirt specks, orange peel, or little runs and buff in a day or two. Be carefull when wetsanding and buffing to stay away from corners and bodylines, these areas go through faster then you think. Wash the truck and get rid of compound splatter and might take a toothbrush in intricate areas. Dry with a chamios and then apply something like race glaze after its dry. Taadaa, brand new truck. People will gaze in amazement. PPG should have product sheets for the clears on thier site. I think you will enjoy hanging around there once the shiny color coats and clear start going on, If something does go wrong, don't panic, it can be fixed, just costs extra time and more spraying or might be able to be wetsanded and buffed out, but might wanna give the painter a little space in this event and it is rare if hes been doing it for awhile.

Ohh forgot to say take of any trim you want off and to unmask after buffing, but you probably knew that.
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
  #49 (permalink)  
Old 01-18-2004, 12:44 AM
nightrain_rod's Avatar
Blue Oval Finatic
 
Last photo:
Join Date: Apr 2003
Location: Tennessee
Age: 25
Posts: 229
Wiki Edits: 0

Thanks: 0
Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts
Man,all of this really helps.Thanks a million!!Now,what exactly is a DA Sander?Is it one of those that simply vibrates?

So I can hit the truck with 320 on the DA right off,then hand-sand it with 400 wet?Now,the 400 grit...Is it that black sandpaper that you get at Wal-Mart made by 3M?I saw that and I was wondering.I forget the other name for it.

So anyway,after the sanding is done,have him do the bodywork.After the feathering is perfect,shoot it with a single coat of primer and hit it with 400 wet.After that task is completed,wash the truck and blow out all of the seams,cracks,etc. with an air compressor.Then,mask it.Hit it with wax and grease remover and then tack.Is there a certain cloth that you have to use to tack?Then,spray on the color coats.Now the flash is the sanding in between coats,correct?What did you say was the best grit for that?Then,shoot the 3 coats of clear.Finish with 1500 grit and then buff in a couple of days.Now the race glaze,what's that?Sorry that I don't know what all of these products are .

Sounds like it should be fun.I'm going to call him on Tuesday and further discuss this job with him and get his opinions on some things.He made the comment when I called him for the quote that he didn't mind me staying around.He'll probably need me anyway because I need to have the back of the cab sprayed,and we'll have to remove the bed for that.But,that's no problem because I'll just put in my new fuel pump and sending unit before I take it to him,and I'll just sit the bed back down on the truck,securing it with a couple of the bolts.Then,I'll just have someone follow me down there.The bed on these Ranger's don't weigh much.When me and dad took one of his buddy's Ranger beds off,it only took me and him.I bet that they don't weight 100lbs.I want to be sure that I get him to paint behind the cab and the front of the bed.If we have to,we can just put the bed back on it when we're done.I think that it will be easier to paint the cab,and then paint the bed while it's sitting on some milk crates or something.Who knows...We'll work something out .

Those little beds come off with 6 bolts,one electrical connector for the lights,the fuel hose assembly,and two people to lift it off.If we leave it off when we paint it though,we need to be careful not to bump any of the newly painted surfaces when we put it back on .

Nightrain
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
  #50 (permalink)  
Old 01-18-2004, 07:33 AM
Member
 
Last photo:
Join Date: Nov 2003
Location: Green Bay, WI
Age: 44
Posts: 2,073
Wiki Edits: 0

Thanks: 0
Thanked 6 Times in 6 Posts
you got everything right, except the sanding between color coats. You don't have to sand between the color coats. You put as much primer on as needed, whatever it takes you to get the amount of fill you need. With experience you can feel when you got things straight and filled. You don't have to prime the feathered areas if they are feathered out good and there is no metal, but it wouldn't hurt if you did. The wetsanding paper is the dark paper like you said designed to be sanded when the surface is kept wet. A da sander just describes the motion the sander takes, or Dual action you can get them at most stores that carry tools like sears. A tack rag is just a sticky material rag that is used to pick up dust that lands on the surface. Any paint supplier will have them and they are cheap so maybe you want to pick up a couple. Wait the day or so after painting and it can be wetsanded and buffed on the same day. I forgot about the bed, but with a gallon of each you should have more then enough. If anything skimp a little on the clear in the bed the color coat will be shiny anyways and it will be hard to wetsand and buff it.It will be easier on the painter if you take the bed off, that way he can easily get the area between the bed and cab, because nothing will be in the way.

Flash is just a term to describe the amount of time it takes for the paint to dry long enough for another coat. It will tell you time between coats on your tech sheets.
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
  #51 (permalink)  
Old 01-18-2004, 09:35 AM
troy-curt's Avatar
Shop Owner And Troll Hunter
 

Last journal entry: Detailing Eng. Compartment
Last photo:
Join Date: Apr 2003
Location: Prairie Grove Ar.
Age: 75
Posts: 2,646
Wiki Edits: 0

Thanks: 0
Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts
sniff--sniff--something doesn't smell right here.

Troy

__________________
If you don't make mistakes. your not doing anything.

69 ss rs full custom camaro 98 ISCA grandchampion
69 ss rs bb camaro wifes driver
66 Elcamino 350/all dz parts,ac,windows,loaded,my driver
69 ss chevelle bb conv.fresh frame off
26 T sedan street rod
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
  #52 (permalink)  
Old 01-18-2004, 10:00 AM
Member
 
Last photo:
Join Date: Nov 2003
Location: Green Bay, WI
Age: 44
Posts: 2,073
Wiki Edits: 0

Thanks: 0
Thanked 6 Times in 6 Posts
what do you mean by that troy?
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
  #53 (permalink)  
Old 01-18-2004, 10:42 AM
nightrain_rod's Avatar
Blue Oval Finatic
 
Last photo:
Join Date: Apr 2003
Location: Tennessee
Age: 25
Posts: 229
Wiki Edits: 0

Thanks: 0
Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts
Quote:
Originally posted by kenseth17
you got everything right, except the sanding between color coats. You don't have to sand between the color coats. You put as much primer on as needed, whatever it takes you to get the amount of fill you need. With experience you can feel when you got things straight and filled. You don't have to prime the feathered areas if they are feathered out good and there is no metal, but it wouldn't hurt if you did. The wetsanding paper is the dark paper like you said designed to be sanded when the surface is kept wet. A da sander just describes the motion the sander takes, or Dual action you can get them at most stores that carry tools like sears. A tack rag is just a sticky material rag that is used to pick up dust that lands on the surface. Any paint supplier will have them and they are cheap so maybe you want to pick up a couple. Wait the day or so after painting and it can be wetsanded and buffed on the same day. I forgot about the bed, but with a gallon of each you should have more then enough. If anything skimp a little on the clear in the bed the color coat will be shiny anyways and it will be hard to wetsand and buff it.It will be easier on the painter if you take the bed off, that way he can easily get the area between the bed and cab, because nothing will be in the way.

Flash is just a term to describe the amount of time it takes for the paint to dry long enough for another coat. It will tell you time between coats on your tech sheets.
Alrighty,now I'm ready .A Dual-Action Sander.The store that I buy the paint from will have it all I reckon.I can just pick up everything there.Robert is suppose to have everything but the paint though.No,I wasn't going to hit the bed.We might put one color coat on it,but I doubt it.Right after it's painted,I'm just going to put a Herculiner on it and a snap-on tonneau bed cover.The paint store will have that wax and grease remover also,correct?All I have to do now is get my stuff and paint .

Thanks Again!!

Nightrain

Quote:
Originally posted by kenseth17
what do you mean by that troy?
Yeah Troy,what do you mean?

Nightrain
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
  #54 (permalink)  
Old 01-18-2004, 11:06 AM
Member
 
Last photo:
Join Date: Nov 2003
Location: Green Bay, WI
Age: 44
Posts: 2,073
Wiki Edits: 0

Thanks: 0
Thanked 6 Times in 6 Posts
yes the paint supply store should have the wax and grease remover. Shoot some questions past your painter and get recommendations on the stuff he prefers. It might be cheaper to get your da somewhere other then the paint store. If your painter has a da, maybe he will let you borrow it, they are fairly cheap. Ask him if he want to shoot a sealer, and if you should just da, or wetsand. He will know what works for him. Work out your game plan with him.
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
  #55 (permalink)  
Old 01-18-2004, 11:47 AM
nightrain_rod's Avatar
Blue Oval Finatic
 
Last photo:
Join Date: Apr 2003
Location: Tennessee
Age: 25
Posts: 229
Wiki Edits: 0

Thanks: 0
Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts
Will do .In that quote that I got from him for $400,that was suppose to be me taking the truck to him with the bondo,primer,paint,and clear,and leave it until he calls me and tells me it's finished.Like I said though,he said that he didn't mind me hanging around if I wanted too.I think that I'll do that just to see what's going on and help out all that I can.

What is the best product that you reccomend for dent filler?

Nightrain

I don't know if this will mix in with my last post or not,but if it does,bare with me.These are the product sheets on my 2 current PPG choices.

------------------------------------------------------------------------------------

PPG DZL Primer Surfacer -

1 Form P-127 (8/91)
DZL Primer Surfacers Form P-127 (8/91)
DZL

IDENTITY CODE
Light Gray Primer Surfacer DZL 32
Dark Gray Primer Surfacer DZL 34
Red Primer Surfacer DZL 72

BACKGROUND
PPG's DZL Primer Surfacers are fast drying, easy sanding products specially designed
to provide fast build with a minimum amount of coats, while having excellent adhesion
and color hold out properties. DZL Primer Surfacers can be used over properly
prepared painted surfaces and/or properly treated and primed bare steel, aluminum,
and fiberglass. DZL's are designed to be used under a variety of PPG Automotive
sealers & topcoats.

DIRECTIONS FOR USE
Preparation:
. Prepare surface by cleaning thoroughly with DX 330 ACRYLI-CLEAN® Wax and
Grease Remover or DX 380 Low VOC Cleaner. Condition the bare metal with
the appropriate PPG metal cleaning and conditioning system.
Note: For optimum adhesion and corrosion protection apply 1 to 2 full
wet coats of DP Epoxy Primer.
Mixing:
. Thin DZL Primer Surfacer 150% by volume with DTL 16 or better lacquer thinner
(1:1½).
. Select the appropriate DTL Lacquer Thinner in the temperature range best
suited for shop conditions. Example:

DZL DTL Thinner
1 part 1½ parts
or to or
1 quart 1½ quarts
2 Form P-127 (8/91)
Application and Dry Times:
. Set air pressure to 30 - 35 lbs at the gun.
. Apply 2 to 3 full wet coats allowing 10 minutes dry time between each coat.
. Allow the final coat of DZL to dry 30 minutes before sanding.
. Dry film build per coat is 1.3 mils.
. Follow the sanding recommendations for desired topcoat system. Can be wet or
dry sanded.
Equipment Cleaning:
Clean up equipment with #DX 590 All Purpose Clean-up Solvent or DTL Lacquer
Thinner.
# Not currently available in Canada.
Cautions:
. DZL Primer Surfacer must be thoroughly agitated prior to reduction. Material
that has been stored for a long period of time has a tendency to settle out. Only
high grade lacquer thinners should be used, we recommend DTL 16 or better.
. DZL Primer Surfacer builds faster than ordinary lacquer primer surfacers.
Applying heavy films may result in poor sandability, more soak in of topcoats and
sand scratch swelling. Excessive films should be avoided. DZL Primer Surfacer
must be sanded prior to sealing or topcoating.

COMPATIBLE SURFACES: DZL Primer Surfacer may be used over:
Properly cleaned and treated steel
Properly cleaned and treated aluminum
Properly cleaned and sanded fiberglass
Properly cleaned and treated galvanized
DX Plastic Body Fillers
DGP 30 POLY PUTTYÔ
DFL Spot Putties
DSX 1900 Bonding Clear
DL 1970 SEALER 70Ô Primer Sealer
DAS DEL-SEAL® Acrylic Sealers
DPE 1538 Black Zinc Chromate Primer
DX 1791/1792 Self Etching Primer
DPX 800 Polypropylene Primer
DP Epoxy Primers
DZ KONDAR® Acrylic Primer Surfacers
3 Form P-127 (8/91)
OEM Acrylic Enamels (must be sanded)
OEM Acrylic Lacquers (must be sanded)
DURACRYL® (DDL) Acrylic Lacquer (a)
DELSTAR® (DAR) Acrylic Enamel
DELSTAR/DELTHANE® ULTRA (DAR/DXR 80) Acrylic Enamel (a)
STARTHANE® (STAR) Polyurethane Enamel (a)
DITZCO® (DQE) Alkyd Enamel
DELTRON® (DAU) Acrylic Urethane (a)
DELTRON (DBU) Universal Basecoat (a)
DURETHANE® (DU) Polyurethane (a)
(a) Must be cured and sanded

INCOMPATIBLE SURFACES: DZ Primer Surfacer may not be used over:
Elastomeric Substrates
DPX 844 Flexible Primer
DPE Synthetic Primer Sealers
DPU 35/DPU 301 DURETHANE Primer/Hardener
KTS 2K Sealers
K 200/201 Acrylic Urethane Primer Surfacer
K 36 PRIMAÔ Acrylic Urethane Primer Surfacer
NCP 250/NCX 255 NCT® Primer Surfacer
DP 70 Epoxy Primer
PREET 33® Primer Surfacer
DX 54 ROADGUARD® Chip Resistant Coating
#DPW 1811 Black Chassis Primer
#DPW 1821 Low VOC Primer Surfacer
#DPW 1832 Low VOC Metal Primer
#DPW 1844 Low VOC Plastic Primer
# Not currently available in Canada.

COMPATIBLE TOPCOATS: DZL Primer Surfacers may be topcoated with:
DSX 1900 Bonding Clear
DL 1970 SEALER 70 Primer Sealer
DAS DEL-SEAL Acrylic Sealers
DFL Spot Putties
DPE Synthetic Primer Sealers
DZ KONDAR Acrylic Primer Surfacers
DPU 35/301 DURETHANE Primer/Hardener
DURACRYL (DDL) Acrylic Lacquer
DELSTAR (DAR) Acrylic Enamel
4 Form P-127 (8/91)
DELSTAR/DELTHANE ULTRA (DAR/DXR 80) Polyurethane Acrylic Enamel
STARTHANE (STAR) Polyurethane Enamel
DITZCO (DQE) Alkyd Enamel
DITZCO (DQE/DXE 123) Polyurethane Alkyd Enamel

INCOMPATIBLE TOPCOATS: DZL Primer Surfacers may not be topcoated with:
DX Plastic Body Fillers
DPU 35/301 DURETHANE Primer/Hardener
DP Epoxy Primers
KTS 2K Sealers
DP 70 Epoxy Primer
DPE 1538 Black Zinc Chromate Primer
DX 54 ROADGUARD® Chip Resistant Coating
DPX 844 Flexible Primer
DPX 800 Polypropylene Primer
DX 1791/1792 Self Etching Primer
K 200/201 Primer Surfacer
K 36/K 201 PRIMA Primer Surfacer
#DPW 1811 Black Chassis Primer
#DPW 1821 Low VOC Primer Surfacer
#DPW 1832 Low VOC Metal Primer
#DPW 1844 Low VOC Plastic Primer
DURETHANE (DU) Polyurethane
NCP 250/NCX 255 NCT Primer Surfacer
#STARBASE (DSB) Acrylic Enamel Basecoat
DELTRON (DAU) Acrylic Urethane
DELTRON 2000 (DBC) Basecoat
CONCEPT (DCC) Acrylic Urethane
#DELTA 2800 (DHS) Low VOC Polyurethane
#DELTA 3500 (DUHS) Low VOC Polyurethane
UCV Vinyl Spray Color
# Not currently available in Canada.

TEST PROPERTIES:
Color: DZL 32 Lt Gray DZL 34 Dk Gray DZL 72 Red
Appl. Visc #2 Zahn (a) 18 sec 18 sec 18 sec
Flash Point PMCC 27°F 27°F 27°F
VOC (Unreduced) 4.8 lbs/US Gal 4.8 lbs/US Gal 5.9 lbs/US Gal
VOC (a) 5.9 lbs/US Gal 5.9 lbs/US Gal 5.9 lbs/US Gal
Weight Solids 49.08% 48.37% 49.35%
Volume Solids 30.17% 29.69% 30.16%
5 Form P-127 (8/91)
Sq Ft Coverage/US Gal 484 @ 1 mil 476 @ 1 mil 483 @ 1 mil
(100% transfer efficiency)
Dry Time Between Coats
@ 70°F/21°C 10 minutes 10 minutes 10 minutes
Dry Time to Sand 30 minutes 30 minutes 30 minutes
@ 70°F/21°C
Weight Per Gallon 9.4 lbs/US Gal 9.35 lbs/US Gal 9.47 lbs/US Gal
Fill Properties Excellent Excellent Excellent
Color Hold Out Very Good Very Good Very Good
Humidity Resistance Excellent Excellent Excellent
Settling Resistance Very Good Very Good Very Good
Sandability Very Good Very Good Very Good
(a) Ready to Spray (1 part DZL to 1 1/2 parts DTL 876)

Sorry that those are a little scrambled,but I wanted to let you guys know what I am going to use.I bolded certain text in the 2 documents.That's to show that the 2 products that I chose will work together.

kenseth 17 -

Is this a good DA Sander?

Nightrain

------------------------------------------------------------------------------------

PPG DAR Polyurethane Acrylic Enamel -

1 Form P-137 (8/91)
DELSTAR®/DELTHANE® Form P-137 (8/91)
Polyurethane Acrylic Enamel
DAR

IDENTITY CODE
Acrylic Enamel Color DAR
DELTHANE ULTRA DXR 80
Urethane Hardener (For spot repair) DU 4
Urethane Hardener (For spot repair) DXR 79
Acrylic Enamel Reducers DTR 600 (50 - 65°F) (10 - 18°C)
DTR 601 (60 - 75°F) (16 - 24°C)
DTR 602 (70 - 85°F) (21 - 29°C)
DTR 604 (85°F & Above) (29°C & Above)
DTR 607 Retarder - 25% Blend

BACKGROUND
The DELSTAR/DELTHANE (DAR/DXR 80) Polyurethane Acrylic Enamel system is
designed for panel repair and overall refinishing or as a fleet finish. It resists the elements
and retains excellent color and gloss. DELSTAR/DELTHANE provides you the same
texture, color, and depth of gloss as an original new car finish.
An additional Hardener, DU 4 or DXR 79 Hardener is available and recommended for spot
repair. DU 4 Hardener or DXR 79 Hardener helps minimize overspray and gives a faster
dry.

DIRECTIONS FOR USE
Preparation:
• Wash affected areas that will be topcoated with soap and water, then reclean with DX
330 ACRYLI-CLEAN® Wax and Grease Remover or DX 380 Low VOC Cleaner.
• Treat all bare metal surfaces with the appropriate PPG metal treatment systems.
• Prime bare metal areas, with DP Epoxy Primers.
• Fill minor imperfections with one of the following recommended Primer Surfacers:
2 Form P-137 (8/91)
KONDAR® Acrylic Primer Surfacer
DZL Primer Surfacers
K 200/201 Acrylic Urethane Primer Surfacer
K 36 PRIMAä Acrylic Urethane Primer Surfacer
• Final sand the repair with : Machine/DA 280 grit or finer
Hand sand dry 320 grit or finer
Hand sand wet 400 grit or finer
• Reclean with #DX 220, DX 330, or DX 380 and tack wipe
# Not currently available in Canada.
Note: The use of a primer-sealer will strengthen any paint system. PPG
recommends the following Primer Sealers be used over the repair area:
DP Epoxy Primer reduced as a sealer
DAS DEL-SEAL® Acrylic Sealers
DPE 656, 1202, 1338, Primer Sealers
Mixing:

Reduce DELSTAR (DAR) with the DTR Reducer best suited for shop conditions and add
DELTHANE (DXR 80) Hardener using the following ratio:
DAR Color DTR Reducer DXR 80
8 parts 6 parts 1 part
or to or to or
8 pints 6 pints 1 pint
Note: Pot life of DAR/DXR 80 is 8 hours at 70°F (21°C).
Cautions:
• DELTHANE ULTRA (DXR 80), DU 4 or DXR 79 Hardener will react with atmospheric
moisture. After pouring the quantity needed be sure to immediately wipe off the screw
threads and replace the cap of the hardener container to avoid congealing. We
recommend using the remainder of the hardener within 7 days after opening for best
results.
• Hot spraying is not recommended when hardener is used because the heat stimulates
chemical reactions and causes rapid gelling.
Application and Dry Times:
• Set air pressure for 55 - 60 PSI at the gun when using a siphon feed gun.
• Apply 2 - 3 full wet coats. Film build per coat is 1.2 mils.
• Allow 15 - 20 minutes dry time between coats.
3 Form P-137 (8/91)
• Allow the final coat to air dry overnight at 70°F (21°C) or force dry 40 minutes at 140°F
(60°C), before putting into service.
Note: During periods of inclement weather, it is advisable to let the paint
dry an additional 24 hours before subjecting the new finish to those elements.

Spot Repair:
• Reduce DELSTAR color in a ratio of eight parts color to six parts reducer and one part
DU 4 Hardener or DXR 79 Hardener. Example:
DU 4 or DXR 79
DAR Color DTR Reducer Hardener
8 parts 6 parts 1 part
or to or to or
8 pints 6 pints 1 pint
• With air pressure at the gun set to 30 - 35 PSI spray two or three medium wet coats to
the repaired area, over-lap each preceding coat, and allow 10 - 15 minutes dry time
between coats @ 70°F (21°C).
Note: A two gun system is recommended when performing a spot repair
with the second gun containing DTR 607. After each coat of color, mist the
overspray edge with the second gun containing the DTR 607. DO NOT over
wet the edge.
• Allow the repair to air dry overnight at 70°F (21°C), or force dry for 30 - 40 minutes at
140°F (60°C).
Note: If there is any evidence of minor dulling around the edges, use a mild
polish to remove it. DO NOT USE COMPOUND or polishes containing
abrasive materials.

Clearcoating:
When a clearcoat is desired to provide additional long term durability, proper color match,
or wet-look appearance, the recommended clears are:
*DAU 75 DELCLEAR® Acrylic Urethane Clear
*DAU 82 DELGLO® Acrylic Urethane Clear
*DCU 8200 CONCEPTä 8200 Medium Solids Air dry Clear
*DCU 2020 CONCEPT 2020 Urethane Clear
*DCU 2001 CONCEPT 2001 High Solids Polyurethane Clear
*Note: When using these clears, the following dry times are required to
avoid lifting:
DAU 75: The color must dry a minimum of 4 hours at 70°F (21°C).
4 Form P-137 (8/91)
DAU 82: The color must dry a minimum of 4 hours at 70°F (21°C).
DCU 8200: The color must dry a minimum of 4 hours at 70°F (21°C).
DCU 2020: The color must dry a minimum of 4 hours at 70°F (21°C).
DCU 2001: The color must dry a minimum of 16 hours at 70°F (21°C) or force dry 40
minutes at 120°F/29°C and cool.

Repair or Recoating:
DELSTAR/DELTHANE ULTRA (DAR/DXR 80) may be recoated with itself after a minimum
of 4 hours air dry @ 70°F (21°C), but preferably overnight. DAR/DXR 80 may also be
recoated following a force dry for 40 minutes @ 140°F (60°C).
Painting of Flexible Parts:
Spot repairing of flexible parts is not recommended. Clean entire part with DX 103 MULTIPREPÔ.
Sand thoroughly with 400 grit paper. If primer is required, use DPX 844 Flexible
Primer thinned 100% (1:1) with DX 103 Thinner, or K 200 or K 36 with K 248 Flexible
Additive.
Mix DELSTAR Color in a ratio of 8 parts DAR Color to 4 parts DTR Reducer to 2 parts DX
369 FLEXATIVEä to 1 part DXR 80 Hardener (8:4:2:1)
DAR Color DTR Reducer DX 369 DXR 80
8 parts 4 parts 2 parts 1 part
or to or to or to or
8 ounces 4 ounces 2 ounces 1 ounce
Additives (DX 77 Fisheye Preventer):
Surface to be painted must be thoroughly cleaned. Silicone additives should never be
used unless positively necessary as flow-out of paints is decreased in direct relation to the
amount used. When absolutely necessary DX 77 Fisheye Preventer can be used in
DELSTAR/DELTHANE Polyurethane Acrylic Enamel systems in a ratio of one or two
capfuls to a quart gun cup of mixed paint.
Equipment Cleaning:
Spray guns, gun caps, pressure pots, etc. should be cleaned thoroughly after each use with
#DX 590 All Purpose Clean-up Solvent, DTR Reducer, or DTL Lacquer thinner. Never
use lacquer thinner to reduce DELSTAR/DELTHANE for spraying.
# Not currently available in Canada.

COMPATIBLE SURFACES: DELSTAR/DELTHANE may be used over:
DL 1970 SEALER 70Ô Primer Sealer
KTS 2K Sealer
5 Form P-137 (8/91)
DZL Primer Surfacer
DZ KONDAR Acrylic Primer Surfacer
K 36 PRIMA Acrylic Urethane Primer Surfacer
NCP 250/NCX 255 NCT® Primer Surfacer
PREETÔ 33 Primer Surfacer
K 200/201 Acrylic Urethane Primer Surfacer
DP Epoxy Primer/DP Catalyst
DPU 35/301 DURETHANE® Primer/Hardener
DPE Zinc Chromate Primer
DX 1791/1792 Self Etching Primer
*DPX 844 Flexible Primer
*DPX 800 Polypropylene Primer
#DPW 1832 Low VOC Metal Primer
#DPW 1821 Low VOC Primer Surfacer
#*DPW 1844 Low VOC Plastic Primer
DPE Primer Sealers
DAS DEL-SEAL Acrylic Sealers
DX 54 ROADGUARD® Chip Resistant Coating
*DX 369 FLEXATIVE must be used in the DELSTAR/DELTHANE color.
# Not currently available in Canada.

INCOMPATIBLE SURFACES: DELSTAR/DELTHANE must not be used over:
DSX 1900 Bonding Clear
DXR 1050 Recoat Sealer
UCV Vinyl Spray Color
TEST PROPERTIES Solids Metallics
Application Viscosity (#2 Zahn) (a) 18 - 22 sec. 18 - 22 sec.
VOC (DAR only) 4.2 #/U.S. Gal 4.5 #/U.S. Gal
VOC (a) 5.1 #/U.S. Gal 5.5 #/U.S. Gal
Weight Solids (DAR only) 53% 50%
Volume Solids (a) 28% 25%
Sq Ft Coverage/US Gal
(100% transfer efficiency) (a) 449 sq ft @ 1 mil 400 sq ft @ 1 mil
Gloss (20 Degree) 85 80
Dust Free Time 40 min 50 min.
Tack Free Time 3 hours 3 hours
Tape Free Time 6 hours 6 hours
Recoat Time 4 - 6 hrs 4 - 6 hrs
Pencil Hardness B B
(a) Ready to Spray (8 parts DAR Color to 6 parts DTR Reducer to 1 part DXR 80)
6 Form P-137 (8/91)

Nightrain

Last edited by nightrain_rod; 01-18-2004 at 11:46 AM.
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
  #56 (permalink)  
Old 01-18-2004, 12:13 PM
troy-curt's Avatar
Shop Owner And Troll Hunter
 

Last journal entry: Detailing Eng. Compartment
Last photo:
Join Date: Apr 2003
Location: Prairie Grove Ar.
Age: 75
Posts: 2,646
Wiki Edits: 0

Thanks: 0
Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts
The original post was answered a long time ago, Have you noticed that most of the painters have quit posting on this thread?It just keeps going on and on.........

Like trying to see how many posts there will be.
This is not the norm...
And may bring some members down on me , but it just doesn't feel right.

Troy

__________________
If you don't make mistakes. your not doing anything.

69 ss rs full custom camaro 98 ISCA grandchampion
69 ss rs bb camaro wifes driver
66 Elcamino 350/all dz parts,ac,windows,loaded,my driver
69 ss chevelle bb conv.fresh frame off
26 T sedan street rod
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
  #57 (permalink)  
Old 01-18-2004, 12:39 PM
nightrain_rod's Avatar
Blue Oval Finatic
 
Last photo:
Join Date: Apr 2003
Location: Tennessee
Age: 25
Posts: 229
Wiki Edits: 0

Thanks: 0
Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts
Yeah,so the original question was answered about 30 posts ago...Big deal.I'm just trying to get some good information on this topic since I don't know a thing about it.Isn't that what HR.com is here for??

Yeah,so we've stayed in the same post.It's better than flooding the forum with these questions.Although,I guess that we could just us PM's...

Nightrain
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
  #58 (permalink)  
Old 01-18-2004, 04:45 PM
Member
 
Last photo:
Join Date: Nov 2003
Location: Green Bay, WI
Age: 44
Posts: 2,073
Wiki Edits: 0

Thanks: 0
Thanked 6 Times in 6 Posts
PM if you need any more info, since some people get upset.
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
  #59 (permalink)  
Old 01-18-2004, 04:50 PM
nightrain_rod's Avatar
Blue Oval Finatic
 
Last photo:
Join Date: Apr 2003
Location: Tennessee
Age: 25
Posts: 229
Wiki Edits: 0

Thanks: 0
Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts
Will do.I've got you on my Buddy List.I think that I've got it covered for now,but if I need anything,I'll drop you a line .

I hate it that it had to end like this ...

Nightrain
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
  #60 (permalink)  
Old 01-18-2004, 05:22 PM
Member
 
Last photo:
Join Date: Nov 2003
Location: Green Bay, WI
Age: 44
Posts: 2,073
Wiki Edits: 0

Thanks: 0
Thanked 6 Times in 6 Posts
I will say one more thing here. I think the dzl primer is lacquer based. If this is true you don't want to choose that primer. When you have money stuck into buying the polyurethane and a clear, the primer is one area you don't want to go cheap on. What I would do is any metal you have put on some of the dp epoxy. If you need fill, like on your bodywork areas, pick a urethane primer. Dp primer can be used as a sealer right before painting your color and i believe the k200 primer also. There are a lot of bodyfillers that are good. Get that from the paint store though, not stuff like the bondo in the walmart stores that have been sitting on the shelf for a while. The reason I was so willing to answer your questions is because I was in your position before, wanting to know how to do all the stuff, just wish the trade was better to me. I believe you will be more happy doing it yourself then taking it down to maaco who normally do a crappy job prepping and use who knows what kind of paint. I've heard too many people say how there paint was falling off and how they were not happy. Plus you will have the pride of doing it yourself. Filling small dents isn't that hard. Just need to get use to adding the right amount of hardener in your filler and the feel of when things are straight. Go down to the bookstore or look on ebay. There are lots of books on the subject to guide you.
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message

Recent Body - Exterior posts with photos

Quick Reply
Message:
Options

Register Now

In order to be able to post messages on the Hot Rod Forum : Hotrodders Bulletin Board forums, you must first register.
Please enter your desired user name (usually not your first and last name), your email address and other required details in the form below.
User Name:
If you do not want to register, fill this field only and the name will be used as user name for your post.
Password
Please enter a password for your user account. Note that passwords are case-sensitive.
Password:
Confirm Password:
Email Address
Please enter a valid email address for yourself.
Email Address:

Log-in

Human Verification

In order to verify that you are a human and not a spam bot, please enter the answer into the following box below based on the instructions contained in the graphic.




Currently Active Users Viewing This Thread: 10 (0 members and 10 guests)
 
Thread Tools

Posting Rules
You may post new threads
You may post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are On
Pingbacks are On
Refbacks are On



All times are GMT -6. The time now is 03:56 AM.


Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.7
Copyright ©2000 - 2014, vBulletin Solutions, Inc.
Search Engine Optimization by vBSEO 3.6.0 PL2
Copyright Hotrodders.com 1999 - 2012. All Rights Reserved.