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View Poll Results: What Should I Do For A Paint Job?
Maaco Paint Job 35 19.23%
At-Home Paint Job 147 80.77%
Voters: 182. You may not vote on this poll

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  #91 (permalink)  
Old 01-30-2006, 10:55 AM
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maaco versus painting at home

I have been painting for years and with todays paints and additives you need a good paint booth''' my buddy just died of cancer the doctor said it was from all the years of painting cars and breathing the fumes''' years ago lacquer paint was the big thing drink a few beers after you got done and that cleared out your lungs ''' ya right''' anyway with todays 2 and 3 part paints you are better off haveing it painted by a good body shop''' i still paint but i do it at a buddys body shop on a sunday when the shop is closed and i use his spraybooth''''' were i live if a neighbor call's the police on you for painting in your garage you can be fined $1500.00 for a first offence and up to $15,000 there after''' dont get me wrong i still do a little painting in my garage a fender or hood but not a whole car''' if you prep your car yourself wet sand and fether edge it'' and take it to maaco as i have done for a few friends in the last few years the only problem we have had with them is a few runs that we sanded out and buffed''' lets face it not everyone has the money or the talent to do a good paint job'''

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  #92 (permalink)  
Old 01-30-2006, 07:18 PM
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spray booth

Kent: So what you're telling me is that if we don't have a buddy with a spraybooth we shouldn't try to do it our selves..Wow You and Scrot should get together. I am sure glad that I didn't get my info from you before I painted my coupe. I may have not ever tried it....Yeah Right.....GlennK
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  #93 (permalink)  
Old 01-30-2006, 09:03 PM
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Would be nice having access to a good booth with good airflow, would be safer. I have painted in garages for years and am still here, but not sure how many years I cut off my life with only a charcoal respirator and overspray fog getting pretty thick. They never mentioned iso's much when the activated urethane products were coming out. Always seen articles in the magazines not showing them wearing proper protection either. I've met a few painters who know longer can go near them being sensisized, and a bosses father was close to death with a messed up nervous system, and think the majority of his painting was with lacquers and enamels which aren't suppose to be as bad. A painter died at an industrial painting place just before I was hired. He was only 50 and they said heartattach, but heard rumors from a few people it was likely caused by the years he spent painting there. Not saying you shouldn't paint at home, a lot of people do, but don't be stupid and not use any protection, and also cover skin and eyes. I am guilty of not always following that advice. No open flames anywhere near where you are painting. It is also illegal to paint in most residential areas, but you usually won't have a problem if you don't make a lot of noise, get along with neighbors, or have a ton of cars lined up and people coming and going all the time. Or live in the sticks. Just make sure you know all this before you head out to the garage if you were not aware when you are ready to begin the journey.
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  #94 (permalink)  
Old 01-30-2006, 09:28 PM
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That's good advice Ken.

Ken,
That's great advice. While I'm nearing paint time I originally decided to see about building a painting booth.While I would like to say it's because of the bad stuff floating in the paint the real reason is due to the amount of prep work I've put into the vehicle. I mean I've created more weld pieces, smoothed out more areas and smoothed out more filler than I could have ever dreamed of. So I want to give my paint job the best possible chance it has. Having said that, I figure my cost for a good home booth to be around 250 not really including spray suit and other incidentals. Realistically I figure I'm going to spend about 350 after that's said and done. The other real reason is my garage is a double but I'm more concerned about what I'm exposing my family to. I figure I will rent some time in a booth get a great haze of paint going and see what happens. But I got to admit it would look cool, something like a cheech and chong movie when that cloud of smoke would come rolling out of my garage.

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  #95 (permalink)  
Old 01-30-2006, 11:26 PM
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How is your filler work progressing anyways SA? Are getting the hang of it now and down pat? If you can find a booth for rent at a fair price, that may be a good idea. The better ones have very good lighting and airflow, and if down draft it will pull the fumes down away from you and lessen the chance of dirt because it will pull it down away from the car instead of across like a crossflow airflow. The problem is nowadays its kinda hard to rent a booth in most areas unless you know someone, high insurance and liability risk. I remember a time when a lot of places rented out booths, at least in larger citys one could be found.
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  #96 (permalink)  
Old 01-31-2006, 12:13 AM
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Getting used to the flow of filler.

Hey Ken,
Yeah, I'm finally learning how much and how neat to put on the filler. It's funny just like when I was learning to butt weld patch pieces, I was globing on the weld and not learning to get short tacks in man there was alot of grind down. But I'm getting there. I was wondering on the underside of the truck there is this grayish paint which is rough to the hand what kind of paint is that? anyway. I'm getting really good at it and learning how to apply and re-apply. You know I bet your right about the paint booth thing. Here in SA I'm may run into that problem. Hmm.
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  #97 (permalink)  
Old 01-31-2006, 12:38 AM
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maaco versus at home paint'''

hey guys sorry i didn't mean to open a can of worms about my veiws on painting''' i still love to paint''' i just wanted to put it out there to some of the younger guys about the hazzards'''' of being sure that you were the proper resperator's and clothing when you paint with todays paint''' i was not trying to discourage anyone about trying to paint there on car besides being cheaper''' its the satisfaction you get in the finished product''' but also that you did it yourself'''' with that said i am going to paint flames on my 47 chevy in my one car garage as soon as it warms up'' i am using water colors paint at home and then i am going to shoot the clear at my buddys shop''' the reason i get to use his spraybooth''' is i give him a hand at his shop when he needs it''' ps. please read the labels before you start'''
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  #98 (permalink)  
Old 02-01-2006, 06:05 AM
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Welding has always been one of my weak spots SA, but have gotten a bit better. I still hate welding even though I have to do it. I would never want to be a welder for a living though. There could be a coating of gravel guard under the paint. Are you talking about a texturized surface on the bottooms of the doors and rockers? No idea, or maybe the paint was sprayed dry and rough under there or overspray from the body. If it is undercoating, then it would smear and make a mess if trying to sand. Could even be bedliner or spatter paint. Who knows, is it factory or did someone work on it before. Maybe take a pic and start a new topic, maybe someone can help identify what it is.
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  #99 (permalink)  
Old 03-10-2006, 11:24 PM
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Curious why it takes two user id's to post on the forums.?
http://hotrodders.com/forum/showthre...068#post580068
http://hotrodders.com/forum/showthre...958#post579958

In reference to post #91 & 97 in this thread
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  #100 (permalink)  
Old 03-11-2006, 08:31 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 1ownerT
Curious why it takes two user id's to post on the forums.?
http://hotrodders.com/forum/showthre...068#post580068
http://hotrodders.com/forum/showthre...958#post579958

In reference to post #91 & 97 in this thread
Good call. I PM'd him about this infraction and if I don't receive a response I'll ban all of his "personalities".
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  #101 (permalink)  
Old 04-03-2006, 01:25 AM
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learning how to paint

if you need product sheets i can mail them to you.i am a sales rep and field tech for a local ppg jobber in phx ,az.
you are going about it the right way,but i would recommend different products.
a gallon of base coat is going to give you 2 gallons of sprayable material.

ppg-dbc base coat
ppg-dcu2021 clear is probably the best and easiest clear to use
ppg-dcx61 is the clear activator
ppg-dt 860,870,885,895 are the reducers
be sure you use the appropriate reducer according to shop temp.
this reducer is used in both the base and the clearcoat
your base coat is reduced 1:1 with the dt reducers
apply 2-3 coats or until you achive coverage
dcu 2021 mix ratio: 4:1:1
thats 4 parts clear 1 part dcx61 activator and 1 part dt reducer
spray 2-3 coats wet on wet
leave your first coat looking like you want your last coat to look.

ppg-omni base coat
ppg-omni mr 185,186,187 are the reducers for the basecoat only
ppg-omni mc161 clear is also a good clear
ppg-omni mh 167,168 clear activator
your base coat is reduced 1:1 with mr reducers
apply 2-3 coats or until you achive coverage
mc 161 clear mix ratio is 2:1 with appropriate activator
mh 167 being fast activator and mh168 being slow
you can blend equal amount of each activator to make mid temp activator
spray 2-3 coats wet on wet
leave your first coat looking like you want your last

just a few notes to see if it would help


Quote:
Originally Posted by nightrain_rod
Yes sir,I'm ready to paint .

I just printed some product sheets,and I found the primer that I think that I'll get.It's PPG's DZL Primer Surfacer.I looked at the product sheets on it and also the sheets on the DAR that you gave me and they're compatible with each other.Now I just have to find some clear.

PPG doesn't have any product sheets on their clears at their website.I think that I'll go with that 2020 Concept that you reccomended.Will that work for my application?If the primer isn't expensive,I think that I'll just get Robert to shoot a coat on the Ranger before he applies the first coat of paint just to insure that it will bond correctly.It's better to be safe than sorry.So,if I go that route,just rough up the original paint,spray the primer,paint,clear,and go.Is that right?Do I still need to have a sealer shot between the sanding and the primer?

What do you use to clean up the vehicle's body after you finish sanding?What grit do you reccomend most to sand the original paint,and wet or dry?He'll know what to do on those dents.I'm not going to get into those lol.Yes,this seems to be time consuming work,but hey,it's something that gets me going.Plus,your ride looks alot better when you finish.What do you use to dry your vehicles when you finish washing them?

Before I started this thread,my knowledge on painting a vehicle was limited,but with the help of you and the other members that cared to drop in and post some advice really helped.Of course,I'm still going to let Robert do this job.He just might have a partner hanging around though .

Nightrain
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  #102 (permalink)  
Old 04-03-2006, 06:09 PM
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I think nighttrain is long gone. I haven't seen him post and this thread was started when I first joined a few years ago.
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  #103 (permalink)  
Old 01-30-2007, 05:46 PM
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Maaco

what is the goal,show ??? what is your experience, none ?? MACCO is a good paint job for the money..
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  #104 (permalink)  
Old 04-06-2007, 04:07 AM
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If your not crazy picky about a color match,go around to your local paint suppliers and ask about any mismatched paint they may have around.It can be considerably cheaper than the paint you have them mix.Find a single stage paint so you don't have to do a basecoat/clearcoat.The latter can be a pain in the pahtoot to a novice painter. Jeff
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  #105 (permalink)  
Old 08-27-2007, 09:09 AM
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I think that everyone should go to Macco for there paint jobs. Keeps us independent shops up and running
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