[Arrowhead]

I almost feel like a fugative! For my next trick, I not going to run front brakes either!

Don't watch this if you have a weak stomach!

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=auPNAPs6pYU

[Arrowhead]

I know I'm being sarcastic and it was pretty stupid what I did. It was very dangerous.

I guess I got obsessed or something and wanted to do things a certian way when I build my T Bucket.

I'm much older and wiser now.

[powerrodsmike]

Cool video

Don't feel all that bad, George, I take a 22000 rpm die grinder with a straight cut, 1/4" 4 flute carbide ball end mill and hand shape aluminum stuff when I can't git-R-done on the mill.. I also have some 1/2" single cut burrs that I do it with also.

I do it freehand. (two hands)I learned that trick from Jocko Johnson...(anyone remember Jocko's porting service? ) Alot of aluminum heads got ported by him that way.

I will say it is dangerous enough that I wear a face shield AND glasses.

Not for the inexperienced, either.

Later, mikey

[oldred]

I use an electric die grinder to shape Aluminum all the time using the special "Aluma bur" shown near the bottom of the page here.

http://www.use-enco.com/CGI/INPDFF?P...MITEM=891-4262

These things work a heck of a lot better on Aluminum and do not load up nearly as bad as as a regular bur designed for steel, with a small amount of lube they hardly load up at all and cut really good.

[35WINDOW]

What about using an "aluma burr" in a Router with a Router Speed control set low- (I'm just thinking out loud about contouring or profiling an edge)-

Another question-I have a Jet 3 h.p. Shaper (they use a lot larger cutting tool running slower, but watch out they have torque!)-if a guy had a Power feed and set it low couldn't that work? I mean, you have a Fence, Table, depth control and all-

[henny496]

Hello
Thanks for all of the responses. I was nervous before, but this does reassure my feelings
I am going to try it today I hope, I have a router bolted onto my mill. It is facing down like a mill, not up so the bit is a bit more contained. I am going to dig out some Lexan for a shield just the same
I will look at the bit and if the back rake does not look sufficient, I will hand grind a bit more on( I am a toolmaker so we do our own tool bits all the time) I have never used a router before and I did not want to do this freehand
I have a lot of the edge to do, so if it feels like it is going to be really slow, I may try to figure out another way to rough out most of the edges.....dunno yet, but if I get it to run today, I will let you know how it worked
I am not going to try it if I don't feel comfortable with the set up
It would be nice if we where still allowed to use the machinery at work, but this is too big to hide without being noticed
thanks again
Tom
I don't have much time to do this, otherwise having my mill done first would be the better answer

[astroracer]

Aluminum routes very easily with the carbide cutters. I do this stuff all the time with my 1/4" router. Get yourself a speed controller though and do a couple of test passes to determine the speed the bit likes without loading up.
Use WD-40 as a lube and you should have zero problems cutting your plate.
Don't try to do it all in one pass though. Sneak up on it, take light cuts of 1/16th 0r 1/8th inch and don't force the bit. Let the bit do the work.
Mark

[35WINDOW]

This subject really interest me.....I did a Google on it and came up with this (No, I'm not trying to stir the pot, just learn something maybe-)

--------------------------------------------------------------------------

From time to time I see messages on the list about cutting metal
(mainly) with routers and circular saws - the average joe's WOOD tools.
People seem to be amazed by the fact that this is even possible and some
even wonder if you should be doing this - is it safe? or even legal?

LET ME TELL YOU.... your wood working bits and blades are really metal
cutting tools in disguise! The is no difference between a High Speed
Steel or Carbide cutter for wood or metal (generally speaking). Matter
of fact - my 60K CNC machining center has a Vermont American "V" shaped
wood router bit chucked in it right now.

There are some very EASY to understand guidelines (pertaining to speeds
and feeds) for machining metal with cutters. They go like this...

1. Determine maximum RPM at which to turn the cutter. Machining rates
are given in Machinery's handbook for various tool types and material
combinations. Since most people are cutting Aluminum, I'll use it as an
example with a carbide cutter.

The Machining rate for Carbide in Al is given at around 600 surface
feet per minute. Since we deal with cutters in inch sizes we need to
convert to inch units -> 600 * 12 = 7200 surface inches per minute.
Let's use a 1/4" 2 flute cutter. To get RPM from Surface speed we need
to divide the machining rate (7200 ipm) by the cutter circumference (PI
* .25) -> 7200/ (PI * .25) = 9167 RPM. This is the MAXIMUM RPM for
cutting AL with a carbide cutter. Since most wood routers don't spin
that fast it is no problem to wood rout aluminum!

2. Determine how fast to push the cutter through the work.

To do this we need to know how fast the cutter is actually turning, how
many flutes it has and the recommended chip load for the cutter (again
given in machinery's handbook). For our example - lets assume that our
router turns at 4000 rpm and we're using a two flute cutter. Since we
are doing this by hand we will be conservative and use a chip load of
.002 inches per tooth on the cutter.

Our two flute cutter is turning at 4000 rpm, which passes 8000 teeth per
minute (4000 rpm * # of flutes) through the work. At a chip load of
.002" per tooth we need to push the router through the work at 16
inches per minute (8000 tpm * .002").

--------------------------------------------------------------------------
Wait a minute-I just googled a Porter Cable Router 893K Router ( I have one)and it says 10K-27K no-load speed-

[OneMoreTime]

I like where this discussion wound up...Of course we need to be safe when we try things..but then we can't be "chicken" and not try things if we are to make progress..

Sam

[Arrowhead]

Thats makes a lot of sense now. I tried different sized bits and found the 1/2" diameter straight bit cut the best. Any smaller and it didn't cut as well

[Youngster]

A few tears back while recuperating from surgery, I made an aluminum front end for a Big T model. It didn't turn out too bad. I used my Dremel with the router attachment to cut the relief in the axle. It was done free hand with multiple cuts. This was my practice piece.

Youngster

[wildman1932]

Now that you have opinions from every one that has not done it, I will tell you that it can be done, and I have done it. You use a high speed router. You hold on tight (it is not a mill). It will scream through 6061 T6. Use eye protection.
I was using a makita 1/4" , 1/2 would be better. I was building a windsheild frame for a 1932 Hupmoble ( or some wierd thing, not able to buy one). There was a fifty pound pile of chips left.
Dave Tallant Hot Rods KC Mo

[Youngster]

Sorry about the 'tears', it should have been years. Damned old fingers are stuttering again!

Youngster

[henny496]

Hello
I tried out the router bolted to the mill and it worked really well
I am putting an Ogee edge on 3/4 in 6061 T-6 and I am quite happy how it is working out. The bit has more than enough clearance on it for chips as is.
I bought a new but cheap router 1/2, with a variable speed on it. The slowest speed is still around 15,000 rpm. I took several cuts, but I imagine it was around 1/16 at a time. I have quite a bit more to do, so I will not try to get too greedy in the cuts yet and wreck the router
I really do wish I had power feed on this old mill table though.
thanks again
Tom

[S10xGN]

I used my router with a 1" bit to spot-face my timing cover for a roller cam thrust bearing, no problems encountered...

Russ