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main or rod bearing rap.

3K views 12 replies 4 participants last post by  cdminter59 
#1 ·
Raps light when idleing and goes away when rpm goes up.tore motor apart and have gouges in main bearings and some are chrome looking and others look like bronze or had a bronze coat that looks to be wearing off.also had no oil pressure after motor was warm.motor is a 72 400 bored 406 that had new pistons and bearings when i got ut.
 
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#6 ·
Detonation might have beat the bearings to the point the oil clearances are shot. Would cause knock and low pressure.

Sometimes "budget" rebuilds will mean the crank was simply polished, not turned to the next undersize. Have the crank measured for straightness, journal roundness/taper and diameter as well as checking the rod big ends to see if they need sized. Replace bearings all the way around to whatever size the crank ends up being.

If the rods need sized, replace the rod bolts w/ARP hardware before resizing for insurance.
 
#13 ·
That is too much compression. For pump gas and iron heads about 9.5:1 will be on the safe side. You really need to measure the chambers of those heads. You cannot figure compression ratio without knowing piston head volume and cylinder head chamber volume. If your heads were 76cc chambers and you milled .040 from them you probably have about 67 cc chambers. With a 7cc flattop pistons and .015 head gasket you would have about 9.792. You might have to use 89 or 93 octane gas depends on how your timing is setup. If you have a motor with 18cc dished pistons and using those heads your compression would be about 8.760. Factory pistons with the same heads and gasket would be 8.443 compresssion ratio.
 
#10 ·
No special bearings are needed. The honing that was done put the big end back to stock specs. The way it's done is a small amount is removed from the parting surfaces, then the big end is reassembled and honed back to stock spec. So when all's said and done you have a stock spec rod big end.
 
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