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DanTwoLakes 10-12-2007 03:46 PM

Making and Binding Floor mats
5 Attachment(s)
Here's a pair of floor mats that have vinyl binding. While it's not hard to cut out these shapes to fit a certain area in the car, they tend to slip around. To stop this from happening, I first glued the carpet to a nib backed rubber product made specifically for this purpose. At the outside edge of this backing I had to cut the nibs off so I could sew the binding onto the carpet-backing sandwich. I did that with a sharp utility knife about 3/4" in from the edge and all the way around the perimeter.
I then cut 2 1/2" strips of contrasting vinyl and sewed them down to the carpet side of the assembly using a 3/8" seam all the way around. When I got to the beginning of the binding, I overlapped the end of the binding by 1", seamed the binding together, and finished sewing the binding down the rest of the way. After that, I pulled the binding over the edge, sprayed glue on the back of the nib-backed rubber and on the binding and glued it down to the rubber side, pulling the binding as tight as I could. after that, I made relief cuts in the binding at the corners to let the binding lay down flat. The next step is to flip the mat over to the carpeted side and sew as close to the inside edge of the binding as possible without sewing on the binding itself. This sews a seam through the binding on the back side of the mat and locks the binding in place. This procedure is called "sewing in the ditch". The last step is to trim off the excess binding on the back side of the mat. If you try to make floor mats, do yourself a favor and make the corners round. It makes sewing the binding a lot easier.

DanTwoLakes 10-12-2007 03:47 PM

5 Attachment(s)
Here's some more pictures of the binding process. Notice that I did not make the relief cuts in corners of the binding until after it was sewn onto the mat. When you sew around a round corner like these, give the binding a slight amount of slack so the corners don't curl up.

DanTwoLakes 10-12-2007 03:50 PM

5 Attachment(s)
And here's the last of the binding pictures, and the finished product.

NEW INTERIORS 10-12-2007 08:05 PM

Great looking work Dan!!!!!! :thumbup:

302 Z28 10-12-2007 08:09 PM

Those look like they go in a 34 Ford 3 window coupe :D . Very nice work :thumbup:


Dusty82 10-13-2007 05:18 AM

Excellent work, Dan! Here's another one for the tutorial folder. Thanks for posting this!

DanTwoLakes 10-13-2007 06:35 AM


Originally Posted by 302 Z28
Those look like they go in a 34 Ford 3 window coupe :D Vince

Strangely enough, that's exactly where they go! I'm glad you like them.

horvath 10-13-2007 07:43 AM

Thanks, Dan!

Another great tutorial. I'll be doing this one fairly soon, when I start finishing my interior this Winter. We're finally picking the colors for my truck's new paint -- I should be getting it back in a few weeks (it's been 5 months in the body shop already).

Rockworthy 01-20-2011 07:07 AM

Yeah nice tutorial but...
Where in the world do you get that nibbed backing? Where do you get the carpet? What type of carpet do I buy that is flexible enough for automotive floormats?

DanTwoLakes 01-20-2011 09:18 AM

I get it from one of my suppliers, but they only sell to upholstery shops. You don't really need the backing, but I have used generic flat rubber floor mats from Wal-Mart, cut them the shape I wanted and then glued on the carpet and did the binding. Almost any carpet that doesn't have a padding attached to the back will work, but thinner carpet under the nibbed backing works better.

You can get automotive grade carpet by the yard from 80/20 Loop carpet is standard on most older cars. It's hard to figure out how to order cut yardage from them. To do that online, click on "shop online" (You need to know which carpet you want to order ahead of time before you click on shop online.), then click on "select by item" (don't fill in the part about what vehicle you want the carpet for) and then click on "select yardage". If you want softer more pliable carpet, don't order it with the poly backing, that is a stiff plastic backing, although you may like that to make floor mats out of.

Rockworthy 01-20-2011 10:53 AM

Wow that website has to be the most confusing, hard-to-order-from website I've been to in a long time. I had to come back to your post like three times just to figure out how to get the damned prices for anything, and even then the "Essex" product wasn't showing up, after all their talk about how cool it is. Classic example of how a great business is going to go out of business for no other reason that there web site sucks so much.

It's hard to know just how stiff I need it to be. Obviously, if the carpet I buy from them is about as stiff as a thick towel, it will just bunch up on the floor or curl/ripple easily and won't lay flat. If it's a tiny bit too stiff, it won't contour itself to the various compound curves required for it to sit there with part of itself on top of the wheel well... Hmm... :confused:

DanTwoLakes 01-20-2011 02:58 PM

I totally agree. I knew they sold cut yardage, but had to call them and have somebody explain to me how to order from the web site. It's ridiculous that they have made it so confusing.

bentwings 04-19-2011 08:48 PM

I have a question to go along with the carpet tutorial.

My rod has some inexpensive carpet that I put in it with the idea that it would ultimately be replaced with something better.

Now that I have my own sewing machine I may as well practice putting some binding on it.

The carpet has a rubber like backing, not very heavy but it has a 'traction feel' is the best I can describe it. Now, will I have to use some kind of lubricant on the surface or the thread???

There is no doubt that the machine will sew it without even slowing down, I just am curious. The stuff cut pretty easily with a heavy scissors so I would think I could just plow into it.

Hot dog, my welting foot for windlace is on the way I should have it Friday.

Thanks for the help.

DanTwoLakes 04-19-2011 11:11 PM

No, you don't need any lubricant. The thread you are using should be bonded thread, which has it's own lubricant built in to run through the machine easier. Don't ever buy thread that isn't bonded. Your sewing machine can easily sew through 1/4" plywood, there's no carpet that will slow it down.

bentwings 04-20-2011 09:01 PM

Great!! I can't wait to try it. I got 1/2" foam cord for the windlace today from Rochford. It's quite a big place. The foot should be here tomorrow.

I also finished a second set of roof bows with all the backets today.

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