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Old 03-31-2007, 03:44 PM
need strog32 chevy front doors
 

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Making a Fiberglass body

Any one have any information on how to make fiberglass mold. I was think about how someone might take an antique sedan and use it to make a lighter fiber glass sedan. I found one site but it was not in depth.

thankx

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Old 03-31-2007, 04:20 PM
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LOL! that's been covered here a bunch of times in some degree of completeness..

Do a search here for "making fiberglass molds" or "making fiberglass body" and you will come up with threads like this one...

fibreglass hood?

It won't be covered "in depth" on too many places on the net, there are too many variables.

In that thread I linked to, there is a reference to a book about making "glass bodies and parts that is very in depth, I suggest you pick up a copy.

later, mikey
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Old 03-31-2007, 05:24 PM
need strog32 chevy front doors
 

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Thanks mikey

will do
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Old 03-31-2007, 10:28 PM
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Heres an article where they somewhat show making a mold of a corvette grand sport front end using an existing body. If you don't have a body to pull a mold from, then you build a plug to pull a mold from. You have to make sure the part will be able to release from the mold when building it. This one uses plaster for the mold, which should be less expensive then fiberglass if you are only going to be building only a few or one body. And for good measure, how about an old plymouth?
http://www.grandsportcorvette.com/gs/body.htm

http://www.hotrodder.com/32Blowpar/page10.html


I think mikey has covered this and layup somewhat here in past threads. I am not an expert, but did spend sometime reading as I was once considering trying something similar and went as far as trying to build a 34 ford body, layed off at the time with plenty of time on my hands, but I eventually abandoned it, and kept busy on fixing a rusty beater I had. I even sent away for a so called book when I was a teenager advertised in hot rod. Well before the internet and information at your fingertips. What a ripoff that thing was, lol. Think it was 12 bucks or something, and it was just a few photocopied pages and they didn't even spell for sheet, let alone show much of anything. Should have screemed highway robbery on that one. I still have it somewhere. Who knows, maybe its something I'll try again someday. I've only made some small stuff so far. There really is a lot of information on fiberglass mold construction and plug building if you spend sometime searching. Don't forget to search some sites about boat building, as they do a lot of fiberglass work.
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Old 03-31-2007, 11:19 PM
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Those are some really good links kenseth17

I like the detailing of the steps that the Plymouth guy put in. It is obvious that he either did alot of homework, or has done that many times before. (adding trim flanges is the giveaway ) Also,using duratec as his plug primer is an industry standard.



It didn't show any reinforcing of the mold though, which is really necessary in order to keep things dimensionally stable when making parts. The mold will get rolled on its side and top in order to lay up the part inside, and if there is no reinforcement it will distort. Some plywood ribs or a steel structure built around the mold sections will work. Also, I would have used some coremat in the big flat areas to keep them from oilcanning. if he is building many parts out of that mold he probably did that, but just didn't show it.


I usually use a secondary mold release called Poly Vinyl Alcohol after waxing. It is cheap insurance against the mold sticking. If you use PVA you can leave off about 10 coats of the TR wax.

The vette mold building was pretty cool also, I have seen plaster molds , but never built any. Don't drop one Don't use PVA with plaster of paris either, as it is water soluble.


Those links need to go into the KB.
I always said you knew what you were talking about. You'll get yer brownie in a day or so...I sent a brownie-gram.

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Old 04-01-2007, 02:06 AM
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heck no, I really don't know much on mold building, other then what I've read and managed to remember, and the little I've messed around I mostly just fix the stuff when its broke. Do alot of that at work on those internationals and freightliners. My next job, I actually get to work with metal again for a change (instead of aluminum or glass), got a cube van to repace the door and fix a fender that was munched right on the corner by the sidemarker light. I'll be nice and not say anything about our estimator today again on this job. I won't even attempt to pretend I know a small fraction of what you do about fiberglass mike.

I had some decent fiberglass links at one time, but lost most of em. I found thos e two searching, I am not sure if the grandsport one is the one I originally had bookmarked. But do remember it was similar as they used an original body and sprayed plaster to make the mold.
A brownie gram, whoo hoo. Hope you deliver it to the right house. Most of my neighbors are older (okay downright old), and are married. Don't know if there heart could handle it or how the wives would feel.
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Old 04-02-2007, 01:28 PM
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good info, so are the hand laid fiberglass bodies better than the chopped glass sprayed type?
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Old 04-02-2007, 03:18 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by baddbob
good info, so are the hand laid fiberglass bodies better than the chopped glass sprayed type?

You can build good bodies with either method ......
you can also build trash with either method.

Most guys do better with hand laid only because they have to brush the resin on, in doing so they can get the air out of the laminate with less work.
An experienced, concientious chopper gun operator and a good roll out guy or 2 can build parts that are every bit as good as hand laid, in some aspects better.

With either method it takes about the same amount of work to do it right. ( if you count cutting material and mixing resin hand layup takes longer)

The problems with chopped parts comes from the fact that gun operators put too much resin on...it saves time in the roll out, but at the expense of part strength, and deformation later on.

A good gun operator can keep the thicknesses more consistant and actually make a more rigid part, as a chopped part has a little foaminess which makes a thicker part without making it weigh more. That is why a chopped part, done correctly is a little stiffer than a hand laid part.

Foam is NOT air bubbles. Air bubbles are bad in any kind of laminate..

Generally though, a hand laid part is better only because there are few companies that employ good gun operators.

I know why, the job is a miserable one, full of health issues, crappy pay, and not very rewarding. ( I could go back to work running a gun when ever I wanted to...ferget that)

Hope that helps,
mikey
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