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Old 09-29-2003, 03:39 PM
E.T. divided by $ spent= Speed
 
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Making Headers

Alrighty then.
I'm gonna just take a wild guess here and say there is no off the shelf SBC into 58 Volvo headers around.LOL
Anyway after finding out some prices on custom bent headers I nearly choked to death and realize my header customizing factory will be open for buissness shortly.Anyway,I'm prolly gonna end up making a set from several sets.
Now how bad off a flow restrictio am I looking at with cuts and welds in my headers tubes???I can get the tubes expanded at the connections so that they fit over each other and theres no butt welds.I also figure if I keep all the flared ends toward the cylinder head(follow me here??)there will be no or less ridge to cause turbulance in the tube.
Think in the end they can be a decent performing headers or will I end up with a peice of crap distorted pipe thats only use is for a sink drain??

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Old 09-29-2003, 04:13 PM
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Hi,

Ive built seveal sets of custom headers over the years, its a lot of work. I have always used butt welds with a tig on the tubes, if you are carefull there will be very little internal blems. I usually mig the tubes to the flange (outer) and tig them to the flange internally ( its a very smooth weld) i usually purchase a kit with bends and flanges. Working with new tubing is a lot easier. I cut and fit and then tack weld them together untill it looks right. Then finish weld ( very time consuming) and the surface grind the flange if it has warped.

Thanks
Jeff
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Old 09-29-2003, 04:48 PM
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How about a set of Blockhugger headers?? They fit up tight to the engine and still work good. If that's not an option, Making your own has it's own set of problems and rules. Smooth bends, smooth seams, equal length primary tubes, specific primary diameters and overall lengths to achieve your performance requirements. Expansion joints disturb the flow at the header level too much and would wreck the performance end but would still work ok where hi performance isn't the top priority. Some header mfgs. sell unwelded header kits and the bag-o-bends (an assortment of rejects from their tube benders). Sometimes the factory cast iron manifolds are the best way out also. Hope this helps some, Good luck..
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Old 09-29-2003, 05:17 PM
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go with some block huggers... pretty much if the motor fits those headers will... they make the short regular ones a little longer and then long tubes huggers too... ive got a set of the long tube huggers on my wagon and theyre great... a pain to take in and out and they hang pretty low but theyre good long tubes for when space is tight
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Old 09-30-2003, 02:03 AM
E.T. divided by $ spent= Speed
 
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I wish I could go with block huggers but I've only got, like 1 1/2" on each side of the block.I defineitly have to go with custom headers evan manifolds won't fit.The car came with a set of mutated welded manifolds that exit out the side but I need the extra flow(or at least want it).
I can't evan find a weld up kit in 1 5/8,they start at 1 7/8,kinna sucks for me.
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Old 09-30-2003, 02:36 AM
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sbc headers

while I am not a chevy person, I would check with summit or Jegs for a set of 1 1/2 inch primary tube headers for a close fit chassis.
If all else fails, you could go with a log style header. while it may not flow as well as would a proper header , if nothing else, it will reduce front end weight. I do recall seeing kicked up headers years ago for small block chevy engines. these are the type that actually curve upward and back, similar to the shorty headers for a lot of mopar and ford engines. And best of luck to you.
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Old 09-30-2003, 07:07 AM
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78 Monte,
With only 1 1/2 inch clearance between the engine and frame, making headers is going to be a real nightmare. Butt welding the tubing is your best bet, from flow and aesthetics viewpoint. When I build headers, I remove as much front sheet metal as possible (fenders, inner fenders, radiator support, etc) after taking pictures and drawing a sketch with all dimensions and locations of these items. Buy a good quality set of header flanges and bolt them to the engine to get your tubes cut and tack welded. Then remove the header and bolt it to an old head or a thick section of metal. This will help reduce flange warpage. I use a mig these days, but have built headers with oxy-acetlene in past years. You will need to purchase many different bends in order to have all the lengths and radius that you need. When you get about the middle of this project you will suddenly realize why custom built headers are so expensive. But if you have some time, energy and enjoy doing things yourself, it will be an enjoyable and rewarding task.
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Old 09-30-2003, 09:14 AM
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78 monte, I've seen "header tube liner-upper butt weld collars" made by one of the header companies- Hooker maybe... Anyway, you cut your bends/ straights to length and then insert the collar into the but joint. Weld both tubes to the collar. No "welding stalagmites" in the tube to interrupt flow.

hopefully someone can chime in with the correct name and manufacturer for these things. Good luck.
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Old 09-30-2003, 11:27 AM
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when you pull this off please keep us posted, i wanna put the new blower motor in an MGB and i need some pretty trick peices as well. i was quoted $480 for a set for the s-10 reasonable i thought but he had done a set for another s-10.
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Old 10-01-2003, 09:23 AM
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There is a website called 'jagsthatrun.com' that has a 720 thru 760 model 350 Chevy conversion done. Maybe you could contact them and get some info. Hope it helps. Maybe fenderwells could be an option too.
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Old 10-01-2003, 09:51 AM
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how about fender well headers?? youd have to cut out some of your fender but they swoop up from the block over the frame and down behind the front tires...
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Old 10-01-2003, 02:25 PM
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Yes fender wells are what I had in mind.Its just that the only kits I've found are for 1 7/8 tubing which is way to big.So I figured between a couple sets of old headers I could make my own that go over the frame rail.They also have to make a pretty emidiate bunch together so they don't hit the tires when I turn.
It'll prolly be a while befor I get this started but I'm tryin to get a plan togther.
Thanks for the ideas,I will look into the butt weld collors.And will check jagsthatrun.
Thanks
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Old 10-01-2003, 06:10 PM
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JC whitney

I buy tube and mandrel bends from jc whitney. They are about the cheapest, and they have all the sizes you need. Just go online and you can order the stuff. I've built several sets of fenderwell headers and they are probably easier than inside frame. Tig or oxyacetylene is the way I go. What ever works for you...Just make sure you get a 3/8 thick flange, it will seal better and won't warp as much. bolting it to an old head or heavy steel plate is a good idea before welding solid...Good luck .......GlennK
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Old 10-01-2003, 11:20 PM
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Might find some ideas here:

http://www.sandersonheaders.com/engi...sbpre49eng.htm
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Old 10-02-2003, 03:04 AM
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a couple of observations i have made in building headers..

1. butweld with a tig, if done properly the weld will have the same appearance inside the tube as on the outside. this is the characteristic of a proper tig weld.

2. use the thickest available flange you can get,, i use laser cut 3/8 stock. bolt it to the head. and start with the hardest to get to port first, the one that has to go into the worst place.

3. if the area is very tight consider useing schedule 40 black pipe mandrel weld fittings, these are thicker but have very tight radius. and are very easily welded and look smooth. they come in 90, 45, 30 and 15 degree bends. these work well for comeing off the flange, from there you can use regular header tubing and bends as needed.

4. tack the collector where you want it, and build in the tubes to meet it... this way you can dodge the obstacles. tack all the bends and tubes...

5. remove the tacked assy, and mount it to a scrap head to finish the welding.. take you time and do a good job..

6. step away and take breaks often... dont fight it.. you will not win fighting this battle... if you reach a snag,,, just step back a while and look at things very closely

7. remember that the difference in hp between a decent set of headers and a great set of headers is very slight in performance,,, usually less than 3 percent, more likely not even that for a street car..

8. one other point ,, after you have the complete assy tacked together,, remove it from the car, and then remove each of the tacked tubes from the collector and the flange to finish the welds,, this makes getting into impossible places, possible. then after all have been completed reassemble them to the flange and the collector to finish the welds

9. consider using the tri-y design, often times this design will be easier to fit into tight places... and tri-y's are often time superior performers for street cars. check em out!

good luck

bob
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