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I'm starting to work on my interior now.
I'll be putting new door windows and chanels, etc. this week, so today I was messin' around ... took the interior window molding off and started thinking about the new door panels. The moldings sit very tightly against the metal framing of the door, so I'm wondering how to deal with the panels. If I use 1/8" plywood and cover that with foam and vinyl, I guess it AIN'T gonna go UNDER the window molding, right? So what's the procedure? Install the window molding and then make my panel to butt right up against it? KristKustoms? You there, bro'? Are there other alternatives? I believe I'm gonna cover the window moldings with vinyl, too. Alan <a href="http://AlanHorvath.com/54chevy/" target="_blank">54 Chevy Pickup</a> |
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Make the panels of 1/8" masonite, stop them short of the window frames by about an inch and the upholsterer will extend the pad and upholstry under the frames to fit.
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I did my cpe went to an upholstery shop and got,I think they call it interior board, its black used that to make panels,you could get custom made door panels that have flames or designs, on them trim to fit,or make your own designs
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Thanks, guys.
I'm gonna do all the upholstery myself. Hadn't thought about backing off an inch -- cool idea! Thanks, Willys36. "Interior Board?" ... hmmm ... how thick was that, Zonk? |
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about 1/8 thick they measure 32 x 48 inches it's called waterproof panel board
Last edited by zonk; 06-11-2003 at 07:16 AM. |
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Will do, Dutchman.
I'll be posting my usual "daily-diary & photos" at my site showing what I do, step by step. I put the felt window channels in today -- NICE difference! The old channels were completely void of felt and my windows were binding when I rolled 'em down ... now they work great and are air tight. The outer rubber strips at the bottom of the windows were all gone (dried and busted) except for the bit that rides in the channel -- I had to chisel those out! What a bear that was! Sure feels good having new rubber there. Then, the inner felt strips at the bottom of the windows were also all gone .. I removed those with nippers and won't put the new ones on until I cover the molding with vinyl. Alan 54 Chevy Pickup |
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I wouldnt recommend stopping the panels an inch short, you will definitely see where the panel ends, even with a layer of foam. Even with a 1/8" panel running under the garnish moulding, it will still create a gap. For the best results, cut the panel to butt up against the bottom of the mouldings. The best way to make this very precise is as follows: Cut the door panel with excess to allow it the go underneath the mouldings. Attach the garnish moulding over the panel (it will make a gap but its OK for now). Now just trace the edge of the bottom of the moulding on the panel. You now have a cutting line which should make a perfect fit up to the moulding. Remember to leave a 1/16" to 1/8" gap inbetween the moulding and the panel, to allow for teh thickness of the panel.
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You da man, Shawn!
Why is it that the BEST way of doing something always conjers up the ol' "Of course! Why didn't I think of that!!?" response? THAT'S how I'll do it -- thanks a million! PS, Shawn -- Re: the Garnish molding ... I've got a steel frame that goes all the way around my door window ... it's a good inch wide, and is screwed in place. I want to cover it with vinyl -- would you do the foam and vinyl on such a piece, or just vinyl alone? I'm thinking just vinyl alone. Alan 54 Chevy Pickup Last edited by horvath; 06-11-2003 at 12:30 AM. |
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Alan,
I wonder how that plastic panel board I mentioned before (about the headliner) would work for your door panels? I've never had good luck with that "waterproof" cardboard, I was planning on using that wallboard as a base for my door panels. |
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I was thinking about that ... it's also 1/8" thick, right? Waterproof for sure ... maybe a good idea ... Shawn?
Alan 54 Chevy Pickup |
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Masonite is used commonly. Be careful to install poly water curtains in all the access holes in the inner door sheet metal like the OEM guys do and it should do fine.
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