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ppd668 07-31-2007 08:49 PM

Man could I use some advice
Howdy everyone,

First off I want to start off by thanking everyone thate even reads this thread, not to mention you that actually answer it.

Now let me tell you about my car. I have a 1968 Imapala 2 door fastback. My dad bought this car from a buddy in 1981 and drove it up til around 91 or 92. Its a pretty solid old car. The motor went out and dad parked it under the shade tree. about two years ago he pulled it out and rebuilt the suspension, had the motor rebuilt and transmission rebuilt. He then put about 60 miles on it and parked it again. (when one man owns 7 vehicles not all get drove.) I guess he finally gave in and gave me the car, he had allways said that when he dies I will get it, but now he says I can have it and when he dies I can ahve the title. So about a month ago I go over to his place (take the wife and kids and just made a day of it) crawled under the car and changed all the fluids through out the entire car due to it sitting for about 13 months with just the occasional start, and drove it the 50 miles home with not any problems. Since then i have replaced all the rubber hoses under the hood, (radiator, power steering, spark plugs, and so forth) I have dressed the motor up with some mickey thompson valve covers I had and an edlebrock air cleaner but that's bee about it.

the car has a 350 (and forgive me but I am not a true shadetree mechanic) and a set of "double hump" heads. Dad says it has a good cam in it but doesnt recall which one. And our buddy that rebuilt went to be with Jesus a few months back so I cant ask him. other than that it is all stock it has an OEM intake manifold, quadrajet carb (that was also rebuilt during the rebuild and there is no problems with at all) and no headers just exhaust manifolds that go into one exhaust pipe, with a "cherry bomb" glasspack on it.

Now what I want to do.

The car is pretty powerful for its size. But I want to make it jump a little more. I have a set of hooker headers that a buddy had on a 75 chevy pickup for three weeks and then he totaled it and before insurance got the truck he took them off. I bought copper gaskets for the headers and painted them with the high heat pain. I did some measuring and everything should still clear just fine (i was a little worried since they came from a truck and not a car...but hey they were free.) I plan on running dual exhaust from the headers and I am not sure on what muffler to get yet. I am looking at a Weiand 8004 intake to put on it, and have even toyed with going with a bigger carb. When I changed the plugs and wires, I used a set that I had for now and plan on going with a good set of both when I do everything else. i would also like to change the distrubitor and coil as well. Can you guys give me some hints on how I can get the max out of my money and make my old man proud. I am not all about pulling the motor out at this junction but if it came down to it I probably would. Also I would like some ideas for the rear end, I would like to gain a little more torque as well. I dont plan on having a beast or a race car. I just want something that sounds, DRIVES, and looks good going down the road.

If any more information is needed just let me know. I am unsure of the transmission other than there is a low and high, I have the transmission numbers wrote down I just have to look at them (i wrote all numbers down as I was changing the transmission filter and gasket) i also can get the numbers off the motor tomorrow in the day light.

Again thank you so much.

OneMoreTime 07-31-2007 11:00 PM

I am not a chev guy but I think in 68 they were still putting the powerglide in some cars..those work fine just not "modern" Your plans sound fine to me just get it tuned to run well with what you have now..I would go wit a dual exhaust with a crossover H pipe and a set of flowmaster 40's to get a good sound..with the headers you will get a bit of a performance boost..I like the edelbrock manifolds myself but that is a preference..not a mandatory thing..once you have it running good then please consider the paint and body to preserve what you have in good shape..My personal choice on somethng like that is to do only minor body mods such as nosing and decking and a simple one color job that is nicely far as wheels ou di no tmention those but some period correct style like the American wheels or Cragers would look good..

Kinda a understated typr of car but real clean and simple..those are great eye catchers to me..

Just my take


techinspector1 08-01-2007 01:09 AM

Like Sam said, it sounds like a Powerglide 2-speed automatic. That would mean that it probably has a 307 motor and something like a 2.73 gear. None of this is the stuff dreams are made of. It just means that you have a good, solid, dependable means of daily transportation.

Spending $135.88 for the manifold plus gaskets and cost of shipping would be fruitless. The money would be better spent buying your wife a new outfit. Trust me on this.

In the first place, with the possible exception of the headers and duals, you're starting at the wrong end of the car. It needs gears and a posi first and foremost. Go shopping for a 12-bolt differential and driveshaft from another Impala that has the same suspension setup as your car. I think that style was new in '65, so maybe a '65 to '70 would have the same suspension links. Check the recycling yards in your area and look on Rebuild it with gears in the area of 3.70:1 and install a posi if it doesn't already have one.

Then when it's built, invite a couple of buddies over for beer and weenies to help you pull the old diff out and install the new one.

Drive the car that way while you shop for another motor and transmission to build for it.

That's my best advice.

ppd668 08-01-2007 07:55 AM

Hey guys I appreciate it, here are some details that I left out that should be useful.

When it comes to body work, we had it painted 6 months ago, and had all the body work done. I have a set of chevy rally wheels with the center caps that say chevrolet motor division on it and all four wheels are flawless.

The car came factory with the 327 I am not convinced that is not what's in it, i just going off of what dad said he did, but again he is not technically savy like some.

now with the transmission, i am taking it to a transmission shop here in town this afternoon and hoping he can tell me which one it is. dad keeps saying turbo 350, but i think that to be wrong with just PRNDL on the transmission. If not I think I have a good transmission out in the garage for it.

I do want to do the rear end. and have been looking for everything to do it. in high school my best friend had a 92 mustang 5.0 and we would change gears every friday after school, we would have the set for driving back and forth to school and a set for the weekend cruise.

mechanically there is nothing wrong anywhere on the car, i could leave it the way it is now and drive it for ever. I have been driving it back to forth to work for a couple of weeks now. I am just wanting a little get up and go every now and then.

dinger 08-01-2007 08:06 AM

Your buddies Mustang had a drop out oumpkin for the rear end gears, the Chevy does not. You'll hav to decide what gearing will work best, hard charging off the line, follow techs' advice. Top end speed, run with a taller gear and will get better mpg. In 68 Chevy had a pretty good variety of engines, if you have the double hump heads it's probably a 327, to know for sure you'll have to get some numbers off the block, there may be an easier way, someone smarter than me maybe able to tell you. I'd definitely go dual exhausts, maybe an edelbrock intake and carb. How does the car shift? If you can run it up to about 70 in low gear, it's probably a powerglide. It sounds like a pretty nice car, I'd keep it simple as far as modifying goes. Dan

Quarter Flash 08-01-2007 09:10 AM

some advice
I would consider an overdrive transmission and a 2500 +- stall. I agree on the rear end ratio and the possi, Eaton is a good one. Someone else might chip in and advise you on some tricks for your rear suspension; shocks, bushings etc. After you get that done I would install the headers and dual exhaust, Edelbrock also has some good mufflers. I like the Aerochamber. My 2cs worth.


327NUT 08-01-2007 02:14 PM

If its the original '65 327 it should have the blow by or "road tube" as we used to call them coming off the back of the block. If its been rebuilt and equipped with a pcv valve then the tube could have been removed and a plug installed in the hole. Look at the back of the block below the distributor for any signs.......327's are GOOD engines!! edit....also if its a "powerslide" and you plan on changing it out, I would install a 700R4, 1800-2200 rpm conv. and 3.73 will scoot.

jimfulco 08-01-2007 07:29 PM

Keep the Quadrajet, and if you're not planning on really beating on the drive train, the 10-bolt should do you just fine.

Quarter Flash 08-02-2007 07:47 AM

Some Advice
On the 10 bolt. I know a couple here locally that has a 69 Chevelle with a ZZ 383 Chev crate engine, 3000 stall, turbo 350, and ET streets for tires. They have a 10 bolt rear with an Eaton possi, 410 ratio, and stock axles. The rear suspension includes a U bolt ladder system, good shocks, and hard bushings. Now it would seem that he is on the edge of blowing this rear end, but he has bracket raced it a lot for three plus years.

The quadrajet and stock manifold may not be as restricting as you think, depending on the year. The early ones seem better the the smog years. It is heavy though. There are books you can buy on performance tuning that carb that can really add to its performance. Create good traction and a good holeshot then add hp.



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