mandrel bent metal radiator hoses? - Hot Rod Forum : Hotrodders Bulletin Board
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Old 05-21-2012, 06:09 AM
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mandrel bent metal radiator hoses?

i'm hoping to find an easy solution for a upper and lower radiator hose.

Parts
----------------------
1977 350 SBC
short water pump
V Belt pulleys
here is the alternator bracket
Griffin double core radiator


Photo of accessories bolted on


photo of alternator bracket and water pump


NOTE:
the alternator bracket is designed to work on the drivers side. I've taken the bracket and flipped it to the passengers, since I'm using an electric fuel pump and power steering.

Photo of the radiator


The radiator has been moved forward 3" from it's previous location. The top hose is now 3" too short. The bottom hose previously used was with a different alternator bracket.

Does anyone know of a supplier or shop that has mandrel bent tubing in various angles that i can splice together, OR one that can be provided measurements, photos and cad image to bend a pipe to fit?

i know it's a long shot
chris<pixelmonkey>
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Old 05-21-2012, 06:30 AM
How fast is fast enough?
 
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If you just want bent pipe use exhaust pipe, any exhaust shop can bend that. Be sure to use some rubber as the engine moves a little more than the radiator.
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Old 05-21-2012, 06:42 AM
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short water pump

short water pumps are usually for corvettes. the alternator sits over the power steering pump. why did you change it. seems to be sticking out quite far. are you sure this set up is going to fit in the engine compartment?
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Old 05-21-2012, 07:05 AM
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ap72 - I considered that, but all the local shops only do the pressure/compressed bends. i'm considering ordering a 90 deg mandrel bent pipe from online and building from there.

This motor is being used in a 1987 chevy S-10

the motor is now bolted in. the power steering pump bracket has a lower portion that flips depending on a short or long water pump. in the photo, it was turned for a long water pump, and the alternator pulley is backwards.

the accessories are now bolted onto the motor and everything clears. 3/4" clearance between the frame and alternator; 1" for the power steering pump and steering gear box.

chris<pixelmonkey>
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Old 05-21-2012, 08:04 AM
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Metal rad hoses.......

Hi,i would buy some S/S bends,tack them til you get a good fit,then have the pipes tig welded,then polish them.use a short section of rad hose on each end for stopping vibration,i would have the end of the pipes tig welded,so the hose wouldnt blow off,under pressure.(or a slight bell mouth) (been there,done that) its a B---H when youre in the middle of nowhere,and the hose blows off.(been there,and done that too)
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Old 05-21-2012, 08:26 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by pixelmonkey
i'm hoping to find an easy solution for a upper and lower radiator hose.
One option is to use short rubber radiator hoses (cut from longer hose of the correct diameter) at the engine and radiator that provide a straight run between the two pieces. Then simply use a length of straight steel tubing between the two.

I've had to do this on two occasions- once w/a Cad 472 in a '81 Camaro, once w/a DD Plymouth AT minivan w/a "almost fits" radiator from a stick shift van. Most parts stores hang their hoses where you could walk up and measure them, or they should at least have a catalog showing them all.
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Old 05-21-2012, 08:49 AM
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A compressed bend is not the end of the world. Unless you want the lok of mandrel bends I wouldn't waste your time on that route. If you're that worried about it just step up a size on the pipe diameter.
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Old 05-21-2012, 11:12 AM
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Speedway has some that are for a flathead that can be easily modified as well as this one shown below that should work on a Chebbie with no alterations. They also have silicone hose and the Gates shrink fit hose clamps. You should have no trouble with the top hose - the bottom will take some thought, imagination as well as welding skills.

This is what I did with my Ford powered 'A'. That pre made Speedway version in this case turned out about 1-2 inches too short - but it is what it is:



I am using SS gear clamps on the outer ends for ease of disassembly - it is a hot rod and they will need to come apart occasionally for work (like right now )
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