[bigdog7373]

Originally Posted by RWENUTS

Ah yes! The Ls6. Smoke em all the way into 4th gear with the original 4.10's. Enough torque that when you walked on it hard you get get the factory oil pressure idiot light to flicker cause the oil was climbing up the back of the pan. It was cranberry red, black stripes, black buckets and console. Wicked car.
That was 30 years ago!! Would be nice to go back!!

You're killing me man! That sounds freakin awesome! I swear i was born in the wrong generation.

[RWENUTS]

Sorry Big!!
I guess you don't want to hear about my first foray into super high performance muscle then!
HEMI. 1967. GTX. 4 speed. 4.10 suregrip. Black on black. RPM out the wazzooo! Nothin' like the sound of them dual quads opening up. WAH!!! WAAAAHHHH!!!!! WAAAAAHHHHHH!!!!!! 0 to 60 in a heartbeat!
Just good memories now!!!

[MadMacs]

Hey Bigdog, I purchased an M-20 from Scott this spring at our local Monroe Wa swap meet and he gave me a great deal with a two year warranty. I have thrashed it good behind my tunnel rammed 350. The guy is really down home honest and just a rodder like everyone else who seems to love what he does. My 1972 Nova came with a tired Saginaw that I trashed in month after setting in the 350. As far as my setup. I am using a 66 pickup cast iron bellhousing, I figure cast is better for flywheel detonation; over stock, softer aluminum though I have some weight, and its low budget. Two other pluses on that old pickup bellhousing; I don't have to shim my starter clearance ( bolts to front of housing, instead of underneath) and its big enough I am running a 12 inch truck clutch. My 14 by 70 rear tires go up in smoke in a blip of the throttle and she is fun as hell.

[bigdog7373]

Originally Posted by RWENUTS

Sorry Big!!
I guess you don't want to hear about my first foray into super high performance muscle then!
HEMI. 1967. GTX. 4 speed. 4.10 suregrip. Black on black. RPM out the wazzooo! Nothin' like the sound of them dual quads opening up. WAH!!! WAAAAHHHH!!!!! WAAAAAHHHHHH!!!!!! 0 to 60 in a heartbeat!
Just good memories now!!!

That's freaking awesome. I'll never get that experience, but i can try to get close with my..... firebird

[bigdog7373]

Originally Posted by MadMacs

Hey Bigdog, I purchased an M-20 from Scott this spring at our local Monroe Wa swap meet and he gave me a great deal with a two year warranty. I have thrashed it good behind my tunnel rammed 350. The guy is really down home honest and just a rodder like everyone else who seems to love what he does. My 1972 Nova came with a tired Saginaw that I trashed in month after setting in the 350. As far as my setup. I am using a 66 pickup cast iron bellhousing, I figure cast is better for flywheel detonation; over stock, softer aluminum though I have some weight, and its low budget. Two other pluses on that old pickup bellhousing; I don't have to shim my starter clearance ( bolts to front of housing, instead of underneath) and its big enough I am running a 12 inch truck clutch. My 14 by 70 rear tires go up in smoke in a blip of the throttle and she is fun as hell.

Thanks! How's it feel shifting? I've heard the muncies are smooth as silk.
Anyone know how the t-10 shifts? I don't mind a slight bit of notchy-ness but my last car was just (audi)

[RWENUTS]

You're right on the muncie being smooth as silk. Super T10 takes a bit more muscle. Not as smooth but much better than an A833 in a mopar.
Very nice speed shifting tranny too!

[vinniekq2]

Im sure you already know this but I learned it the hard way.When swapping in a 4 spd from an auto ,,,dont forget to install the bearing in the back of the crank!!! This support bearing is not present for autos. That was the first muncie I broke.The next 2 were at the drag strip.They shift nice but they do not like slicks.after breaking a couple muncies and a few 12 bolts I swapped in a powerglide.If you bracket race on street tires you should be fine.

[bigdog7373]

Good news! I found a guy only 10 minutes from me parting out a 77 trans am. It's way rusted out but it has a 4 speed muncie in it. I can get everything i need minus the bellhousing and clutch since its a pontiac motor. It will work right? I would assume it's all the same besides the bellhosuing and clutch. Also getting the seats, console, shifter, pedals, and drive shaft. Anyone know what tranny came in the 77 trans am?

[RWENUTS]

Probably a T10. Good score!!
Good things happen to those who wait!!!

[bigdog7373]

Here's the ad 77' Trans Am parts car
Off subject, but my interior is gutted out so i'm also getting most of the interior parts. The thing i'm thinking about is that i don't have the dash in may car. A new dash is like $500 but a dash cover is only $120 (i've seen them installed, you can't even tell its there thats how good it looks). Do you think i should grab the dash from this car and buy the cover or is it worth it to just spend the $500 and get the whole new dash?

I'm also thinking about getting all the trans am stuff like the hood, scoop, front air dam, and the flares. Might even grab the front fenders if they're in good shape since mine are rusty.

[AutoGear]

it SHOULD be a T10 by then. Muncies were out of production by end of 74. The muncie and T10 are identical in a lot of respects externally. Muncies have an aluminum case, midplate and tail. T10s can be aluminum or iron. A T10 will have casting numbers like 1304-065-901. The 1304 is the tip off

Both the T10 and the muncie can use the same type of linkage for the shifter.
The SAGINAW 4speed has the reverse lever in the sidecover and uses a specific linkage.
The Saginaw is also Iron
The T10/Muncie have reverse in the tailhousing.

Another fly in the ointment is the 833 OD from new process. This is an OD truck 4spd based off the 833 chrysler box. this is aluminum and has the reverse in the sidecover as well.

Regarding the dash: I bought a cap for my 87 trans am; instead of paying a local resto place $400 to recover it. Why? Its a driver not a concours resto. The only difference with mine was the molded in speaker grills they used are different than the factory ones and if you look straight down through the windshield from the outside you can barely see my old grills underneath the new cap. Ive never had anyone notice and I can't even get a clear picture to come out.
The trick with the dash pad is ALL in the prep. the better you prep the surface of the old dash, the better it will look with the cap on. Even if you need to use a little spray foam to build up a low spot and trim it flush when it hardens...you're better off.

[RWENUTS]

Slide under and get a look at the tranny. Might be a suprise if you don't. Some people don't know the difference between a munci, a T10 or a saginaw. I once saw a sag with a muncie shifter handle and the guy swore it was a muncie.

[bigdog7373]

Originally Posted by RWENUTS

Slide under and get a look at the tranny. Might be a suprise if you don't. Some people don't know the difference between a munci, a T10 or a saginaw. I once saw a sag with a muncie shifter handle and the guy swore it was a muncie.

Is there anything wrong with a saginaw? It doesn't really matter to me what transmission i end up with, i just want a freakin 4 speed! haha.
It looks to me like the car has had some work done to it so it might have had a muncie swapped in...

[AutoGear]

PLENTY of guys still use the Sag. If its in good shape; no worries as long as you keep it under 350hp or keep your right foot on the straight and narrow.
Just make sure that whatever trans you get; uses the same output shaft as your cars rear yoke. It makes life a helluva lot easier.

*When you look at the trans; start with iron or aluminum

*Then go to the shifter linkage
-all the linkage in the sidecover is Sag or 833 OD
--Saginaws are Iron; 833 ODs are Aluminum
-2 linkage rods in the sidecover and 1 in tailhousing T10 or Muncie

The only problem with random T10s and Sag's is you can get some horrific 3.43: 1st gear econobox transmissions if you arent careful; but so what, at least you're on the road, and some winter when you've got the time. pull the box and rebuild it

[bigdog7373]

Originally Posted by AutoGear

PLENTY of guys still use the Sag. If its in good shape; no worries as long as you keep it under 350hp or keep your right foot on the straight and narrow.
Just make sure that whatever trans you get; uses the same output shaft as your cars rear yoke. It makes life a helluva lot easier.

*When you look at the trans; start with iron or aluminum

*Then go to the shifter linkage
-all the linkage in the sidecover is Sag or 833 OD
--Saginaws are Iron; 833 ODs are Aluminum
-2 linkage rods in the sidecover and 1 in tailhousing T10 or Muncie

The only problem with random T10s and Sag's is you can get some horrific 3.43: 1st gear econobox transmissions if you arent careful; but so what, at least you're on the road, and some winter when you've got the time. pull the box and rebuild it

I already have around 300hp now and i'm still planning on new aluminum heads and a cam upgrade which will put me over 350hp most likely. I don't want to have to worry about the trans and i want to be able to drive it. It's going to be a street car, but that doesn't mean i want to drive like a grandma everywhere. I want to be able to floor it a jam through gears without worry. If the saginaw can't handle this then i would rather not have one, unless i can get it super cheap and rebuild it to handle the abuse. Are parts for the saginaw readily available? Can it be build to hold more power?