[bigdog7373]

Looks like it might be an m20 cause of the 2 rings... Can't know for sure til i pull the side cover and check out the gears. It looks to be in very nice shape. No broken ears or stripped bolts or anything like that. All gears go in smoothly. I'm happy with it.

[vinniekq2]

second gear sinchro ring should be checked before installing.also

[bigdog7373]

Can it be checked without pulling it apart?

[vinniekq2]

http://www.dandltransmission.com/muncie66_70.jpg
dont take it apart.note: the main shaft rides on uncaged bearings,lose 1 and you are in trouble.A transmission guy can see enough by taking off the cover.second gear synchros wear quickly and 3rd gear hold back wears and the transmission might jump out of third when down shifting into 3rd,especially coasting down hill.

also with this transmission,dont get into the habit of leaving your hand on the shifter when cruising around town. This applys to most standards,,,

[bigdog7373]

Thanks for the info i'll definitely check into it.

Originally Posted by vinniekq2

also with this transmission,dont get into the habit of leaving your hand on the shifter when cruising around town. This applys to most standards,,,

Just curious on the reasoning behind this.

[vinniekq2]

shifter can cause side loads if you lean on it a little

[AutoGear]

A lot of good info in here. If its a GM gearset; its an M20. However, a lot of companies back in the day made replacement gearsets, and we have no clue if they knew what the ID grooves meant.

You can put it in 1st gear and turn the input ten times; if the output turns 22 times (2.20 1st gear) its an M21 or M22. If it turns 25 times (2.5 1st gear) its an M20. You got a reasonable deal, if it doesn't leak like a stuck pig. Make sure you adjust the linkage properly, and the shift stops as well (if there are any).
Don't lean on the shifter as said before, it makes the shift forks and synchro teeth wear faster/ unevenly.
You only really need a quart of trans fluid. I know they say fill it up; but that fill hole migrated a lot. The gearset needs a quart to live happy. I'd go to Napa and have them order a qt of Sta-Lube p/n SL24229. Its a non Synthetic GL4 rated 80w-90 (I think, might be 75w90). Its a bit thicker than the synthetics and its not as prone to leaking out of every crevice.

Enjoy it.

[bigdog7373]

Thanks! You guys have been very helpful. I wont be able to put it in the car til next summer though. Anything that you would recomend to do to get a good 100k out of it?

[mikey44]

FBodywarehouse.com is a good site. It has complete kits to hook up your 4 speed. Linkage kits, pedals, etc. No trannies though.

[bigdog7373]

Originally Posted by mikey44

FBodywarehouse.com is a good site. It has complete kits to hook up your 4 speed. Linkage kits, pedals, etc. No trannies though.

FbodyWarehouse :: 1974 - 1978 Trans Am :: Transmission Parts :: 1972 - 1981 Camaro Trans Am Clutch Linkage Kit NEW IS this everything i need?

[mikey44]

That kit is everything from the pedals to the clutch fork. If you don't have a bell housing for a manual tranny you will have to get one, along with the clutch fork, release bearing. The bearing you can get at any automotive store. You can also get the bell housing and fork new if you want, from that site also. Like someone mentioned earlier, you also need the bushing/bearing in the end of the crank.

[bigdog7373]

Ok so i guess it would be a good idea to make a list.
The linkage kit
pedals
bellhousing
flywheel
clutch and pressure plate
clutch fork
release bearing
and the bearing at the end of the crank (does it have a name?)

is that everything?
One more question, the tranny i have is a muncie but the car only came with a t10. The linkage kit is the same?

[RWENUTS]

The crank one is a pilot bearing or bushing.
THe linkage kit will be the same.
Might need a tranny mount too.
Crossmember to bolt tranny and mount to also.
Possible starter change too depending on whether you use a 153 or 168 tooth flywheel.
Buy a matched clutch kit too. You need to match the pressure plate to the throw out bearing. Raised finger plate uses a short throw out bearing and a flat finger uses a long bearing.
Depending on spline on output shaft you might need a different yoke for your driveshaft.

[bigdog7373]

Originally Posted by RWENUTS

The crank one is a pilot bearing or bushing.
THe linkage kit will be the same.
Might need a tranny mount too.
Crossmember to bolt tranny and mount to also.
Possible starter change too depending on whether you use a 153 or 168 tooth flywheel.
Buy a matched clutch kit too. You need to match the pressure plate to the throw out bearing. Raised finger plate uses a short throw out bearing and a flat finger uses a long bearing.
Depending on spline on output shaft you might need a different yoke for your driveshaft.

thanks i got the crossmember and mount and also the drive shaft with it.