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  #16 (permalink)  
Old 12-22-2013, 07:47 PM
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These are my body hammers.


The two on the right, I inherited from Dad. The next three to the left were made by Proto, the wood and green handle is the original handle. The blue fibreglass handles are Martin handles, epoxied into the Proto head after the wood handle wore out.

The 8 OZ. ball peen is a Stanley hammer, and old one, when they were still made in the USA. Yes, I sometimes use it for body work.

This is a dinging spoon, and a cut off section of an old leaf spring. These get used to work dents out of metal. The leaf spring is handy, because I can put the concave side down on a medium crown area, and it still spreads out the impact of the hammer hitting it.


Some of my dollies.

I have a few more dollies, and I also have just used a piece of steel that would fit where I needed a dolly.

If you find some of the old Proto hammers, call me first, and then you can go and get what I already have.

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Old 12-23-2013, 06:44 AM
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One hammer I use a lot is a small ballpeen and a med ballpeen when Im trying to prep my plug welds its a bit of a secret but I use it to countersink the hole so when its ground level theres plenty of weld left......Brian I noticed you have one in your box...

Henry,Try a REAl skinning hammer... trust me it'll be one of your top five too.
I've also got a piece of a leaf spring and use it all the time as a dolly....
My go to dolly you wont believe...but you'll have to wait till next weeks tip of the week "the bestest dolly you never bought" they sell an "all purpose" dolly and basicly it just sits in my box with the rest of them ,since I started using this. you dont have to do any cutting or grinding and I'll bet everyone has one and never thought of it....oh, and you can streeeeetch metal with it too.
How many of you guys have hammer heads in your hammer drawer without handles? they're hard to find (new handles) I got tired of finally finding the right handles only to have some "you know what" use the hammer as a pry bar and snap the handles off within a week so I made handles from electrical conduit , I haven't had a broken one in years..I did catch one guy about to snap off a handle What he was doing was poundng the curved chiesl between the two layers of metal and pulling on the handlewhen a stubburnd weld wouldnt pop usually when this happens its because the drill wasnt centered and some of the spot weld was left...
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  #18 (permalink)  
Old 12-23-2013, 09:00 AM
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I am the only guy who is going to touch my hammers and dollies so thank goodness I don't have to worry about that stuff.

I have a ballpeen in my box for things like chisels. Because my sheetmetal hammers don't touch a single thing but.....sheetmetal.

Brian
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Old 12-23-2013, 09:51 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by deadbodyman View Post
One hammer I use a lot is a small ballpeen and a med ballpeen when Im trying to prep my plug welds its a bit of a secret but I use it to countersink the hole so when its ground level theres plenty of weld left......Brian I noticed you have one in your box...

Henry,Try a REAl skinning hammer... trust me it'll be one of your top five too.
I've also got a piece of a leaf spring and use it all the time as a dolly....
My go to dolly you wont believe...but you'll have to wait till next weeks tip of the week "the bestest dolly you never bought" they sell an "all purpose" dolly and basicly it just sits in my box with the rest of them ,since I started using this. you dont have to do any cutting or grinding and I'll bet everyone has one and never thought of it....oh, and you can streeeeetch metal with it too.
How many of you guys have hammer heads in your hammer drawer without handles? they're hard to find (new handles) I got tired of finally finding the right handles only to have some "you know what" use the hammer as a pry bar and snap the handles off within a week so I made handles from electrical conduit , I haven't had a broken one in years..I did catch one guy about to snap off a handle What he was doing was poundng the curved chiesl between the two layers of metal and pulling on the handlewhen a stubburnd weld wouldnt pop usually when this happens its because the drill wasnt centered and some of the spot weld was left...
got any recommendations on good skinning hammers? I haven't felt the need to get one cause before a couple weeks ago it's been like two years since doing a skin. In the production shop I probably did one every month.
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Old 12-24-2013, 12:00 AM
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I went a little overboard! It's not that often that Martin hammers and dollies go on sale for 40% off!
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Old 12-24-2013, 12:15 AM
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If you have a large project (auto restoration, hot rod) you didn't go overboard. If you like most of us will have ANOTHER large project after that, you most certainly didn't go overboard.

Like I said, in twenty years you can sell those tools for more than you paid for them! They are THAT much of an investment.

Brian
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Old 12-24-2013, 12:29 AM
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I've got a few projects right now, but have to decide what I'm going to keep (thinking the 35 Ford and 36 Chev). I know my way around electrical and drivetrains, but have very little experience with metal bumping/bodywork in general.
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Old 12-24-2013, 12:33 AM
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That 35 Ford get's my blood cooking.

Brian
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Old 12-24-2013, 05:46 AM
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got any recommendations on good skinning hammers? I haven't felt the need to get one cause before a couple weeks ago it's been like two years since doing a skin. In the production shop I probably did one every month.
basicly you cant go wrong with Martin hammers ...I dont use my skinner as often as I'd like,mostly I use it for door bottoms I make..but when you do need one its great to have one ,,getting by with something else,,like a fat chiesl head takes all the fun out of it...
heres a link to ATS...http://www.aircraft-tool.com/shop/se...40780&PageNo=2

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Old 12-24-2013, 05:55 AM
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I went a little overboard! It's not that often that Martin hammers and dollies go on sale for 40% off!
Thats a very good collection even for a pro....I love collecting hammers and dollies especially the unusual ones I'll spend hours sorting through piles of them at the flea markets..
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Old 12-24-2013, 09:06 AM
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I have gotten a number of them on Ebay, vintage odd stuff. I love it when the guys name is engraved in the handle or stamped in the head. It's like I have said, I spend $20 for some old hammer that the dude bought for $3. You can't miss when you buy quality tools. But I just love the feeling of a obviously used body hammer, to think of all the stuff it was used on over the years.

Brian
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Old 12-27-2013, 07:40 AM
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These days its hard to find unusual hammers new...so going with vintage ones is about the only way to get them,for instance my old skinning hammer had a very unusual curve made into the head that let it get into tight spots,when the handle broke I put it in the hammer drawer until I found the right handles ,well it got gone and I've never found another one quite like it...I really miss that one...the old ones are the best ones...Now that I've joined the rest of the human race and have internet access its a lot easier to find those nice wood handles...
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Old 12-27-2013, 12:08 PM
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Dont be afraid to polish the surface of your dollies and faces of your hammers. My neighbor had a dolly with some scratches in the face, I took it home and smoothed it up and polished it out; leaves a much nicer finish. My father still has a ballpeen hammer head he touched up and uses a a small dolly. Its got a lot of different faces to it and its easy to hold on to. You can also use it if you don't have room for a handle to get in some areas. Its not a hammer or dolly but, don't overlook a sharpie pen, you can use it to see where the metal is moving, or to highlight spots and to find small ripples in the metal, if your sense of touch isnt very well defined yet
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Old 12-28-2013, 06:41 AM
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using a sharpie ? That's a great idea.....
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Old 12-28-2013, 09:29 AM
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"using a sharpie ? That's a great idea..... "

I went to an office supply store, and you can get Sharpies in a "jumbo" size, with a chisel tip. Before applying primer, clean up any remaining traces of Sharpie ink with Acetone, and then the normal steps for priming.
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