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  #16 (permalink)  
Old 09-18-2009, 07:34 PM
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Ok. I'll use the 1/4" steel plate..

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  #17 (permalink)  
Old 09-19-2009, 12:52 PM
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Talked with a neighbor that has a 40 Ford Coupe.. He said after looking at the location and all that what I have will be fine.. If it were a bigger area to cover.. Then I would have to go with 1/4", but with the 5x8" area.. It breaks down to 4x5". He said the frame I have isn't any more than 1/8".
Got the booster in. Have to do a little cutting to ge the master in, but nothing important. Then I ran into another problem. I think I have the answer, but thought I should ask first. From the pictures I added.. You can see that the arm for the brake peddle hits the steering column. What I was thinking is to cut the arm down about 2-2 1/2" where it bends. Then both bolt and weld it back on farther down on the arm. It would both clear the column, and make the peddle closer to the floor.. Sound ok??
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  #18 (permalink)  
Old 09-19-2009, 08:26 PM
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If you are speaking of shortening the arm that is between the pivot point and the bend where it turns up to meet the floor pedal, then that will change the pedal ratio in such a way that more foot pressure will be required on the pedal to achieve the same braking force. Perhaps the following will help.

http://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/s...d.php?t=114771
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Old 09-20-2009, 06:16 AM
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Thanks.. Not all that good in math though.. So even looking at this.. If I put a bend down a couple of inches up from the pivot to the right and then straighten it up.. Only other thing would be to find another bolt on booster mount (CHEAP) and cut all that crap out and move it again.., or get longer bolts and put 3/8" aluminum spacers on the booster mounting area, and push the master back some.. It is hard trying to figure it out when you are the only one doing it.. Lots of advice, but which one is right..
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