[Rons1stRod]

I am building a 55 Ford with a 429 engine. I have limited clearance on my firewall for a master cylinder / booster. In fact, I don't think I have room for a booster. I've spoken to other rodders who have used a dual master cylinder for disc / drum set up like I have without a booster which allows the firewall clearance for just the master cylinder. Is this ok? What are the potential problems? One guy I spoke with has a 55 Ford with a 427 with 671 blower with this brake configuration and he said that his car stops "fine" without the booster. I'd sure appreciate some help here.

Thanks!

[302 Z28]

Plenty of 60's muscle cars came with manual brakes, including the 67 Corvette 427/435hp. I did away with the booster on my 34 because of a clearance issue, went with a Vette manual master and 4 wheel disk brakes. Car stops fine.

Vince

[Rons1stRod]

so, you used a Vette master cylinder without a booster. I see some of the catalogs (like Speedway and JEGS) list master cylinders for disc/drum applications ....... I guess it's just a matter of fitting it to the firewall. I have a master cylinder and booster combo now from a Granada that is for disc/drum set up, can I just remove the booster and use that MC?

Thanks again,

Ron

[JamieK]

Non-power brake set-ups use either a master cylinder with larger bores or a brake pedal with an increased leverage point. This is so you will not have to push on the pedal as hard. Imagine trying to stop a car with power brakes with the engine off and the booster has lost it's vacuum. For starters, it may be best to go with a master cylinder for a non-power application. And maybe change the pedal pivot point to get an acceptable amount of force required to stop the car.

Also, you will want to use a master that matches your disc/disc,disc/drum, or drum/drum setup on your car. And you still may need to add an adjustable proportioning valve.

Jamie

[joe_padavano]

Have you considered a hydroboost hydraulic brake booster? It's much more compact than the vacuum boosters. It runs off the power steering pump.

[302 Z28]

You must use a master cylinder that is designed for manual brakes. You cannot just remove the booster and use that master cylinder your pedal will be too hard to press.

Vince

[Rons1stRod]

Thanks a lot for the information!

[302 Z28]

Originally Posted by Rons1stRod

Thanks a lot for the information!

Your very welcome.

Vince

[66GMC]

What Joe said ...
Hydroboost (Brand New)

They also used these units on several GM and Ford cars and trucks ... especially on (but not limited to) diesel-powered models.

[Chevrolet4x4s]

Originally Posted by joe_padavano

Have you considered a hydroboost hydraulic brake booster? It's much more compact than the vacuum boosters. It runs off the power steering pump.

I have hydroboost on my on my 85 for a full size 4x4 it stops great
Shane

[powerrodsmike]

Hydroboost fits in a 57 ford with a sohc motor.





I'll bet it was a hydratech unit.


Later, mikey

[ernkazern]

I just fell in love with a 57 Ford, that doesn't make me a bad person does it?.....LOL.

[JeffB]

This may be a solution,lots of pics and step by step info.(http://www.fordfalcon2000.com/restor...owerbrakes.htm)

[chieftain]

I'm using a Mopar mc, similar to the Wilwood. I think 1 1/8" bore. It's listed either power or manual use. One thing I would advise is stay away from semi-mettalic pads with manual disc. Get the cheap organic pads , thats what came on these cars when they were new that had manual disc. They will grab better than the metalic pads.

[Rons1stRod]

I went to a couple of parts websites and found that a manual master cylinder was listed for the Granada disk / drum brake set up so bought a rebuilt one for less than $20 bucks. That way it is matched to the brake set up. I think I'm on to my next "issue", power steering! Thinking about using 89 Mustang rack and pinion. Any idea if that is mounted in front or behind the cross member? My set up needs to be behind (rear of) the cross member. Still working on that.

Thanks for the info though!