Last thing for today, I'll be quiet now.
Join Date: Mar 2005
Location: two rivers wi.
Dirt, specks, cracks, little boogers in the paint.
This is just one little part of paint prep that might help you out. Theres a lot to it, and there are experts on here that have forgot more then I will ever know, but I showed an old bodyman this and he says it really helped him out. This is my little segment to the ballgame.
I worked in a nuclear power plant for quite a few years, and this is how it works.
Contamination can't be detected by the human eye, that's why they have meters to find it.
Take the dust on top of your television, if you wipe it you will see some dirt on the rag, well in a power plant you have a few places that have contamination, maybe on top of a pipe or valve that has a small leak, you might not even see it but, if you wipe that little bit of dust off from it and check it with a meter you might find contamination, which is radiation in a unwanted area, something like that.
These areas are in a controlled area that the general public cannot get into, and the power plant monitors and cleans them up when they show up.
When you clean something contaminated you decon it, now I'm getting to the point if you're still with me.
When you clean, let's say a surface two feet long by a foot tall, you can sometimes scrub it several times until it's squeaky clean, then take a clean rag and take one wipe down the side, put a meter on it and you still might show contamination.
So you're looking at this and it's spotless yet the meter shows its still got something on it.
If you wipe one time then turn the rag over to a clean part of it and wipe one time the other way, you might have to do this a couple of times, but experience at wiping one way, rather then using the same part of the rag to go the other direction is what works to get rid of contamination you can't see.
So, put a little acryliclean on your fender, take a clean rag and wipe once down the side, turn the rag over so its clean and wipe again, don't go back and forth without turning the rag over.
If this process will clean stuff you can't see with the human eye, then its a pretty sure bet you have it clean.
Also you don't have to put a lot of pressure on the surface when you wipe it.
Hers a tip on cleaning cast iron parts on your chassis using acryliclean.
Spray the part until its moist looking, then take the air hose and blow from one end to the other, like rinsing a wall, one end to the other, not back and forth, usually at least a couple of times.
I use napa 7222 primer and napa 7250 iron block/cast. Just spray them lightly and that way the cast iron will look like cast iron instead of the woodwork in an apartment I used to rent that had twelve coats of paint on the woodwork.
Number 9 wire at a building supply makes excellent hangers for your detail work.
When painting hard to get at areas like inside frame rails, spring pockets, use a siphon type gun like the old standard binks #7, otherwise the hvlp cup will get in the way, I have a bright flash light in one hand when I spray those hidden areas.
I was a little long winded on the radiation/contamination, but anybody that ever tried to explain it usually wound up writing several volumes on it.
I appreciate all the suggestions to improve my soda blasting results. I incorporated your ideas to reduce moisture and now the Eastwood soda blaster is working very well. I'm very pleased with the results and albeit a bit pricey it is worth it to me to have the flexibility of blasting what I want when I want.
Thanks for the suggestions and drawings!
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