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Old 12-26-2010, 03:06 PM
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media blasting, how far must I go?

I set up a media blasting booth (old fishhouse) in my garage to get into all the nooks and crannies. I need to know haw far I need to go with the blaster. I am down to bare metal, some areas are discolored from surface rust, you cant feel any difference in clean areas and dark areas. I dont want to go though all this worek if the rust is going to pop back up. I am epoxy primering every thing before any body work.
Thanks for your help

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Old 12-26-2010, 07:10 PM
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really?

Really, no one?
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Old 12-26-2010, 10:52 PM
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When I media blast even the rusted area's...deeply rusted area's come out looking like the area's where there was no rust....everything is a nice "nickle" or silvery grey color when I pull it from my home made booth.

I have used different types of media, glass bead, aluminum oxide, etc. and blasted several types of metal such as exhaust manifolds, valve covers, etc.
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Old 12-27-2010, 05:10 AM
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thanks

thanks, ill keep after it!
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Old 12-27-2010, 12:33 PM
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If there is any pitting from the rusted area's there isn't much you can do but to smooth it. Depending on the part it can be filled with a "skim coat" (1/16th thick if that) of a GOOD body filler after proper preparation is what I have used in the past.

For parts like valve covers I was directed to a product called Hi-Temp Lab Metal it is a little pricey at $27 a quart plus shipping but well worth it especially if you can find it locally:

http://alvinproducts.com/Products/Products.asp?ID=2

I have an oven designated for powder coating and curing processes such as this in my garage.

After a bit of practice you will begin to see when you are at bare metal, some pieces take more time than others.

I built this cabinet from two $7 sheets of OSB, four 4x2's a couple hardware hinges and $3 in black ABS joints and plug for the drain.

I get the window glass from CraigsList for free and replace it when I have to, with glass bead it is not as often as one might think. It needs a few minor tweaks but I have been using it as-is for the past 3 years.

For some reason I cant get my camera to boot up to my computer, I am not too good with those kind of things.....when the wife stops in for lunch I will add some pic's.
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Old 12-27-2010, 01:55 PM
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ok

The area's having issues with are the underside of the fenders, I am going to keep blasting until gone!
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Old 12-27-2010, 02:14 PM
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Hi guys, I have a question to add to this thread. Does proper media blasting of rusted/pitted areas down to white metal stop the rust from coming back once it is epoxy primed? Or does more need to be done, like naval jelly or similar?

Thanks,
Frank
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Old 12-27-2010, 02:45 PM
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Keep in mind there are many threads here about the potential damage that can be done with over zealous blasting of sheet metal.

Be careful not to ruin anything.
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Old 12-27-2010, 11:30 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jtfx6552
Keep in mind there are many threads here about the potential damage that can be done with over zealous blasting of sheet metal.

Be careful not to ruin anything.
I definatly agree here!! Be very carefull not to blast through anything. Rusted fenders are one of those parts that can be blasted through if care is not taken.

In some cases a patch panel can be bought or fabricated if the rust is too extensive, a new fender if avaliable or one that is not as badly rusted is another option.

From personal experience regardless of how you are blasting wear eye protection!!! I went in two days after I thought I had a piece of the blast media in my eye.......as they centered a drill on the spot that the metal had rusted, I promised never to blast without eye protection!!!

With proper preperation rust should not return, you are working with basicly virgin metal, it must be prepped as so.
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Old 12-28-2010, 12:30 AM
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Here are a couple so-so pictures of the cabinet I built, I am in the process of reorganizing the garage and the improvements that I think need to be made will be done during this reorganization time.

I found the simple plans on line even though they are not really plans just a cut list and the positioning of the cuts on the sheets of OSB.

The pic of the pulley is from a Buick 455 that sat outside for a good deal of time. As you can see there is some pitting but the pulley cleaned up nicely. (the brown "stain" is from sitting on my back deck during a fall rain and will come of no problem as it is slight surface rust)
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Old 12-29-2010, 09:02 PM
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It's not so much "blasting through" but the warpage of flat panels, when media blasting.
As to the undersides of fenders. Is there an outside chance that at some time in the life of the fender someone has applied undercoating? that stuff don't blast off like paint, or rust. but seems to just collect the media, instead of flaking off.

Blasting through means that there was no metal there to begin with, and you have now removed the rust, and left a hole where the rust used to be.
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Old 01-08-2011, 09:51 PM
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And the surface all depends on what "media" you are using. Agressive medias will warp a thin surface even when it's blasted out under high pressure. (sometimes that still doesn't make sense to me but..)
And it's MESSY! I just finished up painting a older gent's 75 chvey truck where he had the cab and outside of the bed soda-blasted and the under of bed sand blasted.. (Yup, he wanted to paint the underside of the WHOLE BED) and every time I got close to a blind corner, sand blew out just to say All over the painted area. AFTER about an hour of blowing it out from here and there.. You can chase it around for hours..
The soda leaves a 'slight' rust preventative to sheet metal but not much. Whereas sandblasting will start to rust as it's blasted if the humidity is high.
Soda, you will have to scuff up with a scotch-brite wheel or some 220 grit paper on an exterior painting surface to give the epoxy something more to bite on.
After painting this ol truck gum-ball blue, we taped off for the middle white section and after pulling the tape, it lifted some of the blue. Good thing it's under the trim. An easy fix..
Soda will NOT take off rust that much at all. The more agressive ones will.
BUT with plastic and soda you don't have to remove glass, chrome and plastic parts that would normally be eaten by the others. Now, I'm not "UP" on the different medias and thier hardness. But from what I knew back then, the little plugs that are pressed out from buttons is one form of plastic media..
(they say that you can't re-use it, but I think that they are just trying to sell more media..
When I do my ol Hornet, I'm thinking of using a plastic media for the under and soda for the exterior.
There was a foam 'hose' that one could peel off some adhesive backing and close in a door jamb so you would minimize the over shoot and blast things that weren't needed. I've never used it and don't know how it stands up to high pressure being blown at it. Might have been just for painting apps.

E
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Old 01-09-2011, 06:23 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 64LS1Nova
Hi guys, I have a question to add to this thread. Does proper media blasting of rusted/pitted areas down to white metal stop the rust from coming back once it is epoxy primed? Or does more need to be done, like naval jelly or similar?

Thanks,
Frank
I think it's a good idea to combine methods. I would use a stainless steel brush to work Naval jelly or phosphoric acid into the left over rust pits.................and maybe blast them some more.
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