Melting the edges of clear??
 

Rubbing out a fres paint job today I had a booboo. I burned through a section on the wheel opening. Problem is the quarters and roof are all one piece with no hard lines. I was gonna respray it half way up the pillar and use reducer to melt the edge. Any opinions on this? Would like to complete this tonight if possible. Here is a picture of how I taped it off.

http://i175.photobucket.com/albums/w...6/1daf3b13.jpg

Or should I just suck it up and knock the roof and other quarter down with 800 and respray it all? I really don't want any evidence of an edge.


I think I just answered my own question. Lol.

How I burn clear
 

Red & blk are the tough ones to burn OJ ,You should try it but dont expect it to work This even gives the pros fits....You'll have to spray a little base where you burned through first I would use an adheasion promoter on sail panel where you intend to melt the clear ,two coats of clear on the 1/4 stopping at the bottom of the sail panel with the first coat ,stopping at the middle on the second ...Then spray the edge with a reduced clear ,mabee 25% clear 75% reducer ...it should work since its freash but hope for the best and expect the worse ...Oh everything thats getting sprayed must be sanded for buffing and just hand rub melted the edge.

you could make a couple more "blend bridges" down the sail panel below where you have one and follow Deadbody's advice too to protect it as you blend up it..
check this one-->http://www.a2zautoforums.com/showthr...end+sail+panel

http://www.a2zautoforums.com/attachm...achmentid=7764

THank you for the replies! I ended up just knocking the roof and quarter down and re-cleared it all.

I have some scrap parts here that I am going to practice blending clears on. This is a really nice car and I didnt want this to come back and haunt me.

they make Blender that you mix with your clear or use by its self,PPG Blender is what i use asi found it better than most of the past.

i mix it 1-1 with mixed clear(activated) and i can do pretty much whatever i want with it.


i have spotted out in the middle of a Hood with it and came out great.


By the Blender and use it is my .02.best of luck Travis

I've also seen stuff that comes in an aresol can? I think transtar makes an edge melter also.

"I was gonna respray it half way up the pillar and use reducer to melt the edge."

"Or should I just suck it up and knock the roof and other quarter down with 800 and respray it all? "

"I think I just answered my own question. Lol."

You could try whatever 'blending' hoo-hoo you like BUT it WILL come back to haunt you in 12 - 18 months. It really is much easier to do it right once than damage your reputation. :pain:

All companies tech sheets say DO NOT BLEND the clear and you will VOID THE WARRANTY if you do. YES, they do know exactly what they are talking about.

I completly understand what you are saying. I did infact reshoot the entire rear section. Doiong this allowed me to fix a few small things I wasnt happy with anyways. This is only a hobby for me, and I normally just do friends cars to help them out. So whats the sense in rushing a job out.

http://i175.photobucket.com/albums/w...6/4bdd5ff7.jpg
http://i175.photobucket.com/albums/w...6/0af6ec2b.jpg

I do love reclearing! Lays out so slick!

http://i175.photobucket.com/albums/w...6/f49a5b65.jpg

My ONLY concern was clear edges in the jams, but I've had good luck in the past with pulling the tape back right after my last coat and the edges are barely noticable.

I will practice this blending process though for those pesky lease turn in repairs I always seem to pay for, lol

There is a product called "Blendease" you can get at your local Dupont jobber.

Put some is a spray gun and have it handy. Spray your clear up to the smallest area to blend, as soon as you spray the clear, spray the blendease on the edge of the clear. It will melt the new clear into the old clear.

EVERY single time! No matter how good the blend looks in the beginning, it will be noticable later.

" It will melt the new clear into the old clear."

Sorry but that is an old wives tale and salesman's blather. Once clear-coat is cured it is inert, it can NOT be re-melted with solvent. NO blender can remelt the overspray into the original clear-coat, your fresh paint only lays on top of it.

Back-in-the-day you could do that with lacquer and actually remelt the blend into it BUT no factory has used lacquer in years.

RTFM :evil: