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68NovaSS 68NovaSS is offline

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Showing Visitor Messages 1 to 10 of 32
  1. bamaboy48
    04-18-2014 05:47 AM - permalink
    bamaboy48
    I check my block and at the bottom about in the middle is stamped 010. Took a pic of it. In my album. There's also a pic of a stamp that is located on the pass rear of block. Any idea what it stands for.
  2. bamaboy48
    04-18-2014 05:44 AM - permalink
    bamaboy48
  3. bamaboy48
    04-18-2014 12:46 AM - permalink
    bamaboy48
    Left out 2 ?..... running offset rockers do I run 2 different sizes of push rods. And as far as the carbs go... which 600 to use. I know they sell the 450 for tunnel rams but haven't seen the 600 for tunnel ram. What would the difference between a ram and a blower, as far as the carb goes, be
  4. bamaboy48
    04-17-2014 09:19 PM - permalink
    bamaboy48
    That's what I thought on the gen 1 just making sure. I looked up my suffix code and its showing to be 72-74 350 and it is a 010 block from the number on back of block. As far as HP goes I was using 600 for an example. Shoot I would love it if I could get that much but I believe i m going to probably be in the 450-500 range. Which I don't think is too bad for a street rod. On the cam...since I got a gen 1 block any suggestions on a roller cam. And running a roller cam do i have to do anything special to the block.

    Ok..correct me if I'm wrong anywhere...run 2-600 on the ram, the pistons I previously mentioned w/ 5'7" rods, since its a gen 1 block go roller on cam, pro 1 200 intake runner heads, and 1.5,1.6 rockers, and if my HP ain't high stay w/ a 2 bolt block....did I forget anything or is that about correct.
  5. 68NovaSS
    04-17-2014 06:58 PM - permalink
    68NovaSS
    Gen I SBC's were from 1955 to the early '90's, they can be identified as having a 2-piece rear main seal. The Gen II's started in the early '90's as the LT-1 then the LT-4, with one piece rear mains, and later with roller cam webbing for roller lifters. Gen I blocks before say 1971-ish were said to have more nickel content making them stronger, they would have a 010 or 020 cast into the front of the block under the timing cover.

    I wouldn't use a stock 2-bolt for 600 HP! Some on the board will say BS, good to go, no way. For that power level go with a 4-bolt block if not racing it, minimum 2-bolt splayed caps racing. Didn't know you were talking 600 hp, not talking small budget here! A Little M aftermarket block is nice if you go for a 427 + SB stroker.

    You need offset rockers with large intake runner heads. I doubt 195 heads need them, but would use push rod guide plates, Pro I Darts include them, unless you buy bare heads. Check with Dart tech.
  6. bamaboy48
    04-17-2014 05:02 PM - permalink
    bamaboy48
    Okay...#1 ?. What's the year range on gen 1 motors and #2 with the heads I chose ( dart pro 1 ) would it benefit me or not on running offset rockers. And finally #3 if I stay under...say...600 HP I would be fine with a 2 bolt block?
  7. 68NovaSS
    04-17-2014 09:26 AM - permalink
    68NovaSS
    I had my gen I SBC blower motor machined for Milodon billet splayed main caps, expensive to do. For a street motor, 2-bolt blocks are actually stronger in the webbing than factory 4-bolts. Depending on your HP level, machining for OEM style 4-bolt caps is cheaper. I like Lunati cams, and for a Gen I block would recomment a retro roller setup if the budget allows it. N o worries about break-in. For a flat hydraulic cam, don't over cam it for sure. I would go with the VooDoo grind 10120704. I have three VooDoo custom grinds for my blower motor. The VooDoo series has a more aggressive ramp and flat make power. With a LCL of 110 it will have a nice lope, headers make it sound even better. I would also go with 1.6 rockers, at least on the intake side. Stay away from the CCams Thumper series, they are a poser cam, very heavy on overlap, and very hard to tune to make mediocre power. To me, making the heavy lope more like pulling of three plug wires, lol.
  8. bamaboy48
    04-17-2014 02:45 AM - permalink
    bamaboy48
    The motors I built in the past I didn't match the components based on the equation as I want to do with this one. So some were over carburated and some were over cammed. I want this to be as close to perfect as possible. I plan on having the block splayed to a 4 bolt, bore matched to the pistons, balanced and blue printed.... So why waste the money on having that done and not do it internally right. I really do appreciate all the advice and help you are giving me and the patience you have given me. You are a very knowledgeable man..
  9. bamaboy48
    04-17-2014 02:30 AM - permalink
    bamaboy48
    Well I know the lower the cc in the head you're getting high compression. And I've always heard that compression = HP. Now that I know I'm going to be boarder lined on the octane and gas prices like they are and if it won't hurt me too bad I can go with the 72cc head. Now which one of the cams that I mentioned would you recommend me run with the 72 head. A lot of people that I know like to go with the big cams for the sound and not performance but me....yeah I like the sound but more than that i like the performance and the sound..... ok so far i got dart pro 1 72cc head, the ram w/ 600 the pistons from my last msg........another confused thing is..why do some people run off set rockers ( 8-1.5 & 8-1.6 ). Would that be something else that you would recommend.
  10. 68NovaSS
    04-17-2014 12:06 AM - permalink
    68NovaSS
    With a stock deck and .041 gasket you're getting back up there at 10.54, pushing it for pump gas and large quench of .066. The CR is doable with aluminum heads and tuning, but to me it's leaving a lot on the table due to retarded timing to avoid detonation. Why 64cc heads now? With 72 cc you would have 9.7, something you could live with pretty nicely. I"m running Dart Pro 1 200cc heads on my 383 blower motor with and 8.1 c.r., but a blower motor is a whole different animal than a stout NA motor. No bother...

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