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ericnova72 ericnova72 is online now

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Showing Visitor Messages 1 to 10 of 16
  1. bamaboy48
    04-07-2014 08:39 AM - permalink
    Well it is going to be a street/strip (strip would be driving it to the track not on the track) truck so that small amount of extra HP is not going to be worth spending the money on. And the block has been punched but I don't know how far, so I'm thinking bout .060 if it ain't already there. The block feels like there's enough meat there to not have the overheating problem....thnx
  2. ericnova72
    04-06-2014 06:44 PM - permalink
    I've got a couple of good engine modeling programs, and could never get the added higher cost of the bigger than 383/385/388 common stroker to be worth the added $650-1200 expense for the 25-40 hp it might add. If it was for a race class where every last HP was needed to even be competitive it might be different, but for common street/strip or bracket race use it didn't pay to try to stretch them bigger than 388 (which is .060" over and 3.75" crank.)
  3. bamaboy48
    04-06-2014 03:27 PM - permalink
    So best bet is not to go over a 3.73" stroke....right? In your opinion is there really that much difference in power or performance.
  4. ericnova72
    04-04-2014 01:14 PM - permalink
    Depends on what block you have, the early 2-piece seal blocks limit is about 3-3/4" stroke(basic 383/385/388" depending on overbore), you can do 396/398/402" using a 3-7/8" stroke but this generally cost much more as crank has to have smaller 2.000" rod journals )2.100" is standerd large journal)and you need to use a small journal rod that is made on a specific forging blank to be smaller overall on the big end so it will clear the block, and quite often you will hit water jacket when clearancing the block for this set up(about 1 in 6 blocks). The newer 1-piece seal block take this a little better, but still a chance of hitting water(about 1 in 10 blocks).
  5. bamaboy48
    04-04-2014 10:36 AM - permalink
    Stock 350 SBC, what is the largest stroke crank can I go with and what length of rods with what type of pistons and will I have to use a particular type of rings. This is going to be my 1st stroker motor so all help and advice would be appreciated.
  6. bamaboy48
    04-02-2014 08:47 PM - permalink
    Well the last s10 I did had the 450s set up on it and didn't really do to bad but I understand what you are saying. I think I'm going to go with a team G topped off with a mighty demon 850. This way i dont have to worry bout screwing up on cutting the hole in the scoop. Now I just gotta sell the ram.
  7. ericnova72
    03-31-2014 01:25 PM - permalink
    As far as I've dealt with them, the 450's just all around SUCK on anything, their use on rams is a misapplication and they don't really do all that well for power or drivability . Their original intended application was for single 4 barrel use on 4 and 6 cylinder small motors under 250 cubes, which tend to have really different carb metering signal demands then 8 cylinders do as far as intake airflow quality and harmonics. Get two 600's you'll be much happier with the end result, or two 650-750 double pumps or 660 center squirters List #4224 (best) if you are very drag oriented. Check you're tunnel ram ports to head runner fit, lots of older tunnel rams designs don't even have enough cast material at the port openings to cover the top of the head ports and seal. A modern large single four barrel intake like a Hurricane, Team G, Strip Dominator,Super Victor will smoke any old tunnel ram, about the only good rams are the racing Holley Strip Dominator ram and the Edelbrock Victor Ram.
  8. bamaboy48
    03-30-2014 05:50 PM - permalink
    Ok. I believe I can handle it. I appreciate the info. Now a little motor advice needed...the last s10 I done had a 350 built to a 360 with tunnel ram and 2 450 carbs with dart iron eagle heads. This one I'm wanting to build a stroker, already got the tunnel ram from a guy off of craigslist, with aluminum heads with 210-220 intake runners. The ? is will 2 600 carbs be too much or will the 450's work best. The truck probably won't see the track but maybe a couple of times.
  9. ericnova72
    03-29-2014 08:13 PM - permalink

    Mock them up with the snubber bolted to the tube and about 1/2" to 3/4" air space gap between the snubber tip and the spring at the spring eye, and tack weld to your spring axle bottom plate to the tube. You may have to do a little grinding on the spring plate to get the Tubing to sit right and have a good weld surface. Place the anti-dive clamp mounts(the strap)about 8-10" back from the snubber, and on final install this clamp should be set to act like a "driveshaft loop" around the spring leaf - NOT be clamped down tight. It is there just to avoid the bar dropping into the pavement on hard braking. Clamping it down tight preloads the leaf spring in a negative way. If you have a little fab skill you'll be able to figure it out from studying the pictures. Got any questions just ask.
  10. ericnova72
    03-29-2014 08:11 PM - permalink
    Here's, the better set(almost correct), you want to copy this layout using your stock leaf spring bottom plate/shock mount plate but make them long enough that the rubber snubber comes up right under the front leaf spring eye thru-bolt for proper "push" into the chassis. These are just about 4" too short for some reason.

    More to follow ---

About Me

  • About ericnova72
    lifelong dragracer and gearhead
    S.W. Lower Michigan
    Racing! and musclecars
    CNC and Tooling Machinist


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  • Last Activity: Today 01:50 AM
  • Join Date: 01-13-2007


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