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Old 05-30-2005, 10:43 AM
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messed something up... lol

Hey folks-

So I just got done welding the door hinge back on my jeep. Its nice to have a functional driver's side door, you know, you really come to appreciate a good working door once it stops working and you have to crawl across your car in public to plant yourself in the driver's seat!

Anyway, got all that done. Car is fine other than the fact that now when I turn on the blinker (either one) the dash indicators flash both blinkers and the brights indicator?! Talk about goofy.. When I check outside the car, though, only the appropriate blinker is flashing on the back of the car, but on the front it looks like only the correct front marker blinks, but both of the side markers are blinking with either signal?! Wow, weird eh?

Any pro suggestions?

K

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Old 05-30-2005, 12:15 PM
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Thats a wierd one, did you disconnect your negative cable when you were welding? I know that it can do damage to computers, ignition boxes etc..., but I have not heard of it damaging wiring. Your flasher is right on the side of the vehicle where you were welding, maybe it cooked the contacts inside of it or something. Good luck, I would like to hear what this one is. Time to get out your multimeter!

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Old 05-30-2005, 01:09 PM
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Check the ground to your dashboard. It may have gotten knocked off and it is trying to ground through the other bulb.

Are your dash lights acting up too?
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Old 05-30-2005, 04:58 PM
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Lights

Doc here,

Killer,

What year Jeep is it? and perhaps does it have a BCM (body control module?) Power windows, Seat Belt anti defeat sensors, Door ajar, Seat heaters, position memory alarm functions..and the like..a BCM usually controls all these functions on a newer vehicle..

You might have Fried it with spurious frequency from the Arc welder...

ON all newer Vehicles, The ONLY SAFE way to Weld on them is DISCONNECT the BCM"s AND ECM's from both power and ground and (I do at least) Remove them from the car altogether...(Considered overkill but I have never had to replace one for someone yet...)

Even though Modern Vehicle Computers are Well Buffered, The massive Frequency punch of an Arc Welder can really hose a computer...

I was welding on HOT summer's day, Outside of the Building, and had the stinger in my hand, no shirt on, sweating like a pig... leaned back to take a break on the wall behind me, which had a 480 / 3 phase Conduit strung across it...I received one Massive Frequency bite... between the Conduit ground and The stinger! No Current involved but enough to burn a stripe across my back and make note to NEVER do it again.

In future At the Very least, Disconnect the computer plugs, and at best take it out of the car...just to be safe.

AND if you have an Expensive CD player / Radio Pull BOTH the memory and power harness power plugs! you can damage that also...

ANY solid State item can be subject to hefty Static Discharging from an Arc Welder...and just disconnecting the Battery Won't do it...Since you are Turing the Frame into a Big RF Static source every time you strike a weld...Pull the plugs or remove if possible...

Back to your problem, you may have melted the Harness that runs in the body channel from the dash to the front and rear sections of the car..(inside the door posts) Does the Dome light Still function? (a Good clue that something is amiss in there)

Check (I'm sure you probably already did, but in case) The Turn signal fuse, The circuit may be "Ground loading" from a bad fuse..(working like a series fed Christmas tree light string..) Where the light system has lost power from a fused source and is actually DRAWING power from ground through one or another lamp through The flasher or other light..(where BOTH lamps will illuminate dimly or possibly not at all..)

Check the Flasher too (especially If it is solid state) It could have been hosed during the weld..

Locate And Check the relays for High / Low Beam lights and possible Lighting relays they could have also have been damaged , Especially if the Courtesy center is on the left side (kick panel area) of the Car.

Do a "Hand over hand " inspection of the harness in the area which you were welding, I'm sure your going to find the problem in that area..And if not...

Check to see if you have a BCM and if it is functioning..If it isn't..not much you can do about that except replace it..

Hope it helps!

Doc
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Old 05-31-2005, 12:28 AM
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update, noticed the headlights are not working...
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Old 05-31-2005, 09:08 PM
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I would have to agree with the others and say that it sounds like the harness that runs down from the dash inside the car down to the floor, right on the other side of the A pillar from where you were welding got melted. Have you looked at the harness?

Subman
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Old 06-01-2005, 07:22 PM
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well I didn't have a whole lot of time to check out the problem as of yet but I took a look at it. I checked all the fuses, they're fine. When I pull the light switch I get marker lights in the back of the truck. NOt sure about the front, but the lights still don't work. I don't think any of the wiring for that stuff goes through the A pillar, the main harness runs just inside of the left fender, there would be no reason for it to go through the A pillar as far as I know. I think what I must have done is when I took apart the front clip I must have yanked a ground. I looked at the wiring diagram and one headlight is piggybacked off the other, so if one went down, the other one seems like it would too (ground I mean). We'll see what I come up with this weekend... would a ground do it? The wiring diagram shows a "black" wire running off the back of every light in the car. I assume those are individual grounds. The headlights are probably too many amps to want to ground anywhere but pretty close to the light.

K
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Old 06-01-2005, 07:29 PM
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oh, its a 95 jeep, doc.

Poncho, dash lights are fine except the indicators that are coming on (presumably some sort of default to tell the driver somethign is up with his lights)

K
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Old 06-02-2005, 06:30 PM
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Grounds

Doc here,

Killer,

Indeed , an errant Ground would cancel the lights. Thing to try, as you probably already know, ground each light at the area of the lamp, Then run a 10 gauge ground from the main ground (around the starter) to the firewall and another to the frame. Burnish off the paint, and use a star washer at each attaching point.

That should give you a good, body / frame ground...If you removed the front clip, a lot of that vibration Strip is an insulator...(that gooey rubbery crap) and you might be losing a ground there, after you check/clean The headlight grounds, run a jumper cable from the battery ground to like the radiator post, see if it cures it..If so the 10 gauge grounds will permanently Cure it!

Doc
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