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Old 06-26-2008, 04:31 AM
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metal flake

i bought 2qts of purple mist and reducer and 4 0z size of #8 deep purple flake from kustomshop .com very thing is coming out really nice. when the sunshine hits it man does it sprakle. any way my question i put about 3 coats of clear on mixed with the flake now do just put on 2 more coats of str8 clear coat leave cure and start to wet sand to level out the flake and add more clear till its smooth or start sanding now to level out the flake, then apply the clear coat(s). i think if i sand out now to level wont it knock off all or most of the flake?

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Old 06-26-2008, 06:16 AM
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I'm a novice painter (so have no experience regarding your question) but everything I've read says your hunch is correct. Do NOT sand the clear with the flake in it. Apply more clear over the top and color sand from there to get a nice glassy surface.
Always learning...and sharing what I've learned.
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Old 06-26-2008, 09:03 PM
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Just repeating what our Airbrusher said:

"I put two coats of clear over the flake, then sand it down, to cut off the tops of the flake. Then I put a couple more coats of clear down.
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Old 07-03-2008, 11:16 PM
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Paint, then add pearlescent or flakes, then clear!!

I did a car once that needed to be recleared (cause i messed it up first time around), So I decided to add Kandy and gold/lavender pearlescent and it came out pretty good.

I would lay down your base(color)

Then your Flake (or kandy, or pearlescent)

And Finally clear (3 to 4 mils) if you intend to level and buff out.

This is your typical tri-coat process. I would not level between coats of flake and clears. Lay down all your clear first then sand and buff. Unless you have really bad runs or sangs or orange peel. If this is the case sand with a 600 to 1000, clean throughly (with some kind of solvent cleaner and tack the daylight out of the car) then add on more clear.

Typically in industry we just add all the clear we need first. Level (sand to remove orage peel) and buff.

Let me know if you need more details on the sanding and buffing. See my earlier posting.

Last edited by edselman59; 07-03-2008 at 11:21 PM.
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Old 07-10-2008, 09:57 PM
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Yep, sanding the metal flake clear before straight clear will sand the color out of the flake and you'll end up with a bunch of silver where there should be the color flake you sprayed, unless of course it's silver.

It's the same process with metal flake on boats, except a whole lot harder to do with gel coat.

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Old 07-11-2008, 10:06 AM
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When I flake I put 2 to 3 wet coats of clear with the flakes and then waiting flash times of course put 3 more coats of regular no flake clear. Then i sand and re-clear. Make sure you wait your flash times or you will get solvent popping from the excessive film build. JMO Tim
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Old 08-22-2008, 02:40 PM
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Can't remember just ow course #8 is but a hundred years ago when we were shooting flake the size of corn flakes on a lot of custom vans, and Super Fly rides.......we would actually take a kitchen rolling pin, and after the initial flake coat we would roll the thing with the rollin pin to knock off the tops f the flakes that didn't lay down.
Then we would shoot a few coats of clear then begin the clear/sand/clear/sand.
It was a ball buster to put 20 coats of laquer on a full sized van, or an Eldorado.
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Old 08-22-2008, 07:10 PM
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You want flake,This is from a Master.And I quote.

Flakes been around for years......big flake...1/64th in size.....everyone today thinks flake is sequin flake.....i say ol skool because we had to learn to spray big flake. WE didnt have an option way back when. So naturaly those who got good at it found ways to overcome the problems with flake.....and flake is tricky.....if you dont add enough clear to your flake, and you layer it to thick your flake will sheet off your base.....if you mix it to thin you can see the base and the flake looks to do flake you have to address all the problems that come with big flake.......ol skool of hard knocks.

Flake is a process.......its a base color that resembles the flake...its a flake base layer that stable but dense.....its a series of clear coats and blocking before more flake layers....its walking your flake density down on top of blocked clear......all this adds up to a flake job that looks can throw sparkles from all most guys will blast flake clear and your done and that looks great.......but next to my multilayerd layerd flake its just a bass flake looks like you can float thru it..........and it looks even better at night under street lights...its all application..custom layer blocking and walking down the concentration so you can see to the bottom thats a custom flake job....the blast a clear is just flake

what happens with a contrasting color is the flake looks blotchy cause it has dead spots in thats if you want a flake base

if you just want a flake accent then you would use a contrasting color..then the flake acts like a pearl

you color your flake when you want the base or job to look like colored flake and not a base coat/ color

there are a dozen ways to use a solid color with many variations or as an accent with many variations.then you have to deal with flake size....big flake......sequin flake....crystal flake.....and they have many variations.....the flake buster is for laying down heavy doesnt accent very well.

Flake is a great custom look......get in there and play...its a lot of fun playing with mirror as your pigment

DOC rules on old skool!!.
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