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Old 05-20-2013, 10:00 AM
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Metal prep before applying epoxy primer on Frame

Im getting ready to paint my frame and other miscellanious suspension parts. I couldn't blast the frame but was able to wash and grind most of the gunk and rust off. I was expecting to get perfectly clean metal but instead Im getting %85 clean metal with some slight areas of light brownish red layer (rust.?) Im having a hard time taking it all off especially in small tight corners.
What should I use, besides grinding, or blasting, that will get the framer ready for Epoxy primer?

Some things I considered
-Just shooting Epoxy as is...
-Getting a small grinding weel and try to get to all the hard spots
-Using Evapo-Rust If I do and cant dip the metal parts in the solution, Can I spray it on?
- Selling the project and buying something semi-complete.. LOL

By the way this is a 1940 Desoto Coupe that Im dying to get on the road. Ill post pictures of the frame later

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Old 05-20-2013, 04:32 PM
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evapo rust is not a good option for what you want to do. It is only good for so many square foot use, because its strength deminishes with use. Its safe on all metals so its good for non ferrous metals.

If you decide to use a chemical for cleaning, I would suggest some product with phosphoric acid in it.
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Old 05-20-2013, 07:54 PM
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I would hit it with Ospho or similar product, I would not put epoxy primer over any type of rust.You don't have many selections in California A Zinc rich epoxy would b e great or maybe 5 star Dtm Primer.
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Old 05-21-2013, 05:37 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Pats55 View Post
I would hit it with Ospho or similar product, I would not put epoxy primer over any type of rust.You don't have many selections in California A Zinc rich epoxy would b e great or maybe 5 star Dtm Primer.
First, I just need to know where in this industry you get a Zinc Rich primer? Even aviation no longer use or phasing out and only place I know it is active is off shore oil rigs.
Zinc Phosphate (now used) is not the same as "Zinc rich statement".

Second, the guy has went to the trouble of taking the body off a frame, so why the H would he want to use a direct to metal urethane primer on a frame?
Save that crap for bull dozers or used car specials.

Only two way to do a frame right.
1) sand blast and epoxy.
or
2) clean with Ospho and make sure you neutralize it and then epoxy.

They don't take body's off of cars to do butcher work.
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Old 05-21-2013, 06:06 AM
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I'm a big ospho user and I've done frames with ospho and a big wire wheel ,all I gotta say is holly crap thats a lot of work theres no way I'll do it like that again...
SAND BLAST that frame or(better yet) Have someone blast that frame, as cheap as I am THATS the one thing I'll gladly pay someone to do the job comes out SO much better...
When the frame comes back Then you can use ospho if you want , it'll help keep any surface rust off the frame plus if theres any small amounts of rust still in there it'll remove it and stop it from getting any worse ...it'll give you plenty of time to properly prep the frame for epoxy ...
although I wont blast sheetmetal, blasting the thicker stuff is always what I would do...its so much easier and faster...and it does a better job...
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Old 05-21-2013, 08:05 AM
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Zinc rich primer is available thru Mastercoat along with our permanent rust sealer/surfacer/ primer and our AG 111 top coats.Secondly for somebody doing frame up these systems would provide maximum corrosion resistance and chemical resistance.I don't know what world that epoxy primer will out due zinc rich or moisture cured primers .In 2009 you attacked my products and you didnt even have the right name[ Master chemical]. The whole premise behind Master series coating line was to seek out the most powerful primers and topcoats in the world and is still our goal. I ordered a qt of your SPI epoxy. Planing to do some extensive tests on it in our lab and outdoor exposure. By the way I'll be Rolling my floor plans with MASTERCOAT permanent Rust sealer
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Old 05-21-2013, 08:14 AM
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Originally Posted by Pats55 View Post
Zinc rich primer is available thru Mastercoat along with our permanent rust sealer/surfacer/ primer and our AG 111 top coats.Secondly for somebody doing frame up these systems would provide maximum corrosion resistance and chemical resistance.I don't know what world that epoxy primer will out due zinc rich or moisture cured primers .In 2009 you attacked my products and you didnt even have the right name[ Master chemical]. The whole premise behind Master series coating line was to seek out the most powerful primers and topcoats in the world and is still our goal. I ordered a qt of your SPI epoxy. Planing to do some extensive tests on it in our lab and outdoor exposure. By the way I'll be Rolling my floor plans with MASTERCOAT permanent Rust sealer

Kinda of figured by the "zinc rich urethane primer" remarks you were not a painter or knew what you were talking about.
Just keep in mind, a lot of these people are spending the family budget to restore these cars and don't need bad advice, as it costs them money.

Never heard of you and really don't care how you spell your name. Thanks!
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Old 05-21-2013, 08:30 AM
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The first car I painted was a 40 LaSalle coupe in 1978. The whole car was pick and file with no body filler used whatsoever Ziincron Primer was the base lasted more than 20 years. Since 1978, I painted at least a dozen cars.as far as budgets .our coatings are the least expensive in the hobby. Check out the mastercoat photo gallery. Some of these cars have been shown at Hershey.have a nice day
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Old 05-21-2013, 05:31 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BarryK View Post
First, I just need to know where in this industry you get a Zinc Rich primer? Even aviation no longer use or phasing out and only place I know it is active is off shore oil rigs.
Zinc Phosphate (now used) is not the same as "Zinc rich statement".

Second, the guy has went to the trouble of taking the body off a frame, so why the H would he want to use a direct to metal urethane primer on a frame?
Save that crap for bull dozers or used car specials.

Only two way to do a frame right.
1) sand blast and epoxy.
or
2) clean with Ospho and make sure you neutralize it and then epoxy.

They don't take body's off of cars to do butcher work.
Thanks BarryK. This is exactly what Im going to do.. Im going to use Ospho and make sure I neutralize it. Anyone know where to get this in California?
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Old 05-22-2013, 05:57 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 67Elcamino View Post
Thanks BarryK. This is exactly what Im going to do.. Im going to use Ospho and make sure I neutralize it. Anyone know where to get this in California?
I'd like to know more about how and when you neutralize it...
and how you know when it's neutralized

for where to get it you might look up" Skyco " or "Ospho"

I've got a question about this Zinc rich 2k......can you weld thru it????

Now THAT would be something we could use ....imagine, a sandable ,buildable epoxy primer that you can weld thru....Now theres something for you guys to work on....
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Old 05-22-2013, 09:08 AM
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The Mastercoat zinc rich primer is really not designed to weld through. The Mastercoat metal prep contains zinc and I would treat the area with the metal prep first, weld it, and then coat both sides with zinc rich epoxy. Now that you've got a zinc rich base, two coats of the Mastercoat silver primer would cut off the oxygen, prolonging the service life. Then you could place a sandable urethane or epoxy primer over that, block sand it, and paint. The fumes from welding through will knock you out and wouldn't be healthy. Weld through primers are available at the welding shops and you can use that or the metal prep. As far as sandability, the softness of the zinc would likely cause clogging of the paper. That's why we suggest another primer over it for blocking and filling. Unfortunately, in the paint industry, every formulation change means a sacrifice on the other end. I hope this helps.
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Old 05-23-2013, 01:32 PM
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those blast-in-a-bucket kits from eastwoods are great for getting into nooks and crannies of a frame
i did my 58 truk frame in my barn in stages, back, then front and finally the middle when i pulled the cab off
right angle die grinder with 40 grit for the flat areas and blast-in-a-bucket for the creases and crannies





por15 paint

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Old 05-23-2013, 01:34 PM
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front with cab on

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Old 05-24-2013, 06:55 AM
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blast in a bucket???? what the heck is that???
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Old 05-24-2013, 04:51 PM
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same basic gun as an blasting cabinet, sans cabinet
and yes they call it Blast-Out-of-a-Bucket Abrasive Gun

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