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  #16 (permalink)  
Old 09-23-2013, 11:21 PM
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Update: Wow, I block sanded with a hard block and 220 grit paper and knocked all of the orange peel and surprisingly I have not hit the metallic. What I did notice that the more clear I sanded off the more I noticed that solvent trap.. as if the hazing is getting darker.. can that be happening? Im afraid to sand anymore off with fear of hitting the flake.. Im going to leave it out in the warm California sun for a day or two and hope that the solvent trap disapears..

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Old 09-23-2013, 11:35 PM
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I'm not familiar with the haze getting darker, 220 is a little coarse though, let it sit in the sun for a day or 2 and go over it again with a finer paper..the absolute minimum would be 320 and even that is fairly rough, the coarsest I use is 600 wet for re-clearing. You are planning on re-clearing right?

Could you smell the solvents when you where sanding? You do have a lot of material on there...would the hazing show up in a picture?

I just would like to see you have a successful conclusion to this paint job...sometimes coarse paper can make it seem like the job is going faster, but, in the end, it could slow you down. But, by all means, the California sun is going to help draw the solvents that are left out of the clear.

Ray
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Old 09-24-2013, 09:43 AM
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The advice you are getting about sanding (opening up the clear) and setting it out in the sun all day is very important. The sun will vastly speed up the solvent out gassing in the freshly cut clear preventing another solvent pop problem with a new coat of clear.

Vince
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Old 09-24-2013, 09:54 AM
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Thank you Ray, I agree I never use anything courser than 600 on the clear.. I did so on this because the 600 was taking too long to cut through the top coat of clear. I'll try to post some pics If I get home while there is still sunlight.

Im using 220 wet to cut through the top layer of clear. I will resand with 600 before I will shoot another coat of clear.
I just want to make sure the hazing goes away before I shoot the final clear coat
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Old 09-28-2013, 04:22 PM
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Your gonna hate hearing this Ray but Im about to call it quits on this project and starting over.
I down to using a 180 grit paper just to cut through the layers of clear. The good thing is that it hasnt cut through to the flake yet. The bad things is that for the life of me I cannot get rid of the haze. In some cases I swear it getting darker after I sand. I think Im going to try one more time with sanding down with a 180 grit and leaving in the sun for another 2-3 days. This is very strange I have attached the picture. This was an area that when I layed all the coats of clear it had a slight strip of haze to it.
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Old 09-28-2013, 05:49 PM
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What happens if you wet the sanded area down with water? Try that before you start over, if you wet the entire roof with water and the haze goes away...then clearing it should make it go away as well. Are you sure that the haze isn't a spot where you may have burnt through and cut into the flake?

Ray
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Old 09-28-2013, 06:24 PM
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I didnt mention that I have tried water and you can still see the streaks of haziness. What I think is strange is that I was shooting the coats I only noticed hazing in the very last coat. therefore I figuered if I sand off the yop coat the haziness would go away. Im pretty sure its solvent trap beacause where I noticed the haze as I was applying the clear is where I laid it heaviest. Ive attached a close up of the small white dots causing the haziness. (solvent trap?)
If I plan on laying another coat of clear and final sand with 220 before re-clearing will it be ok? it looks ok with water over it.
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Old 09-28-2013, 07:25 PM
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When your sanding can you still smell solvents?...if you can it could very well be that you applied clear on several occasions and when your trying to cover big flake...there is a tendency to really pound on the clear....that in itself will trap solvents .... even down in the clear coat.

Basically what happens is that you apply several coats of clear...sand or open up the top of the clear and apply more...when you open the clear the solvents from the fresh coats go all the way down to the substrate, bounce back and take solvents that have been previously trapped with them on the way up. So, that's why I asked if you could still smells solvents...they can take quite a bit of time to come through....especially with all the material that is on the roof....If it looks Okay with water on it, it should look the same way with clear on it...before you re-clear, finish sanding the roof with 320 as the coarsest paper, other wise you will be there for a real long time trying to polish the 220 sand scratches out....with 320 you at least have a fighting chance of covering it with clear.

Ray
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