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Old 09-07-2011, 11:04 AM
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Metallic Skill Level

To be honest I've never painted a vehicle before. Only houses, I have an old truck I took down to bare metal. Did my metal work and now I'm in the process of doing my filler work and guide coats.

I would like to go with a blue metallic but the fact that I can't sand out my mistakes frightens me a little. I have a decent set up for a home garage I have a 5hp compressor that puts out 8.4 cfm at 90 psi. I know the importance of gun set up and I'll get a chance to get my feet wet with primer.

I'll probably by a pint first and find an old panel to test on. But should a newb even consider spraying a metallic?

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Old 09-07-2011, 01:38 PM
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honestly i really dont think that spraying a metallic is any harder than solid color. what kind of paint are you going to use enamel or a base and clear?
the most important thing that i think for shooting flake is watching your overlap on your passes so you dont get tiger stripes in the flake.most manufaturers recommend a 1/2 overlap in your passes. meaning that you put the center of the spray on your current pass on the wet edge of your last pass. does that make sense?

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Originally Posted by utk03analyst
To be honest I've never painted a vehicle before. Only houses, I have an old truck I took down to bare metal. Did my metal work and now I'm in the process of doing my filler work and guide coats.

I would like to go with a blue metallic but the fact that I can't sand out my mistakes frightens me a little. I have a decent set up for a home garage I have a 5hp compressor that puts out 8.4 cfm at 90 psi. I know the importance of gun set up and I'll get a chance to get my feet wet with primer.

I'll probably by a pint first and find an old panel to test on. But should a newb even consider spraying a metallic?
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Old 09-07-2011, 01:39 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by gufnstuf
honestly i really dont think that spraying a metallic is any harder than solid color. what kind of paint are you going to use enamel or a base and clear?
the most important thing that i think for shooting flake is watching your overlap on your passes so you dont get tiger stripes in the flake.most manufaturers recommend a 1/2 overlap in your passes. meaning that you put the center of the spray on your current pass on the wet edge of your last pass. does that make sense?
and keep swirling the paint in your gun while working to keep flake from settling...
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Old 09-07-2011, 06:09 PM
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If you think you'll have a problem keeping the metalic floating do what we use to do on custom colors years ago and put a couple marbels or nuts in the bottom of your cup. Helps stir things up when you shake the gun.But doesn't work on gravity feed
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Old 09-07-2011, 09:56 PM
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I plan on doing base & clear. The overlap and making sure to swirl to keep the flakes from clumping makes sense as well. I do plan on doing a few practice shoots on a spare panel.

I think, emphasis on think, I'm a quick learner but it usually takes a few passes for me to get the hang of things, I plan on trying a few practice runs just to make sure my set up is right.
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Old 09-07-2011, 10:34 PM
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lighting

You need good lighting to see what is hapening. either a good comercial booth you can rent or home made one . I used to hold a trouble light in ons hand to see what is hapening probably dangerous if it sparks.
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Old 09-08-2011, 08:30 AM
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I'll strongly agree with good lighting and spraying test panels. I still spray test panels if shooting something I haven't used before or recently, and I've been at it for some time! This is one area where practice makes perfect, a blend of both art and science.

You can do it!
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Old 09-08-2011, 08:55 AM
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air quality

Good advice here. I'd just add to make sure you are using good clean, dry air. Air straight from the compressor will contain small amounts of oil and water residue. A good air dryer is going to make things go much better.
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Old 09-08-2011, 09:18 AM
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I have to go to the other side with this one. First off, keeping the metallic stirred up is usually not a problem. But honestly, a SS metallic is VERY difficult to spray without getting mottling or stripes AND still maintaining a good gloss.

I rememeber a particular failure of mine. Poor lighting, and a little pressure, (I mean on me, not the gun) and it was a MESS.

Go basecoat clear coat or go a solid color is my advice.

Brian
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Old 09-08-2011, 08:31 PM
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I'm on Brian's side on this one. Spraying SS metallic is
diffucult but not impossible. You can do some things to
increase your chance of success; use a slow reducer,
hold the gun off a bit on the last coat, and don't spray
on an extremely hot day...
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Old 09-08-2011, 09:06 PM
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The poster is doing base/clear. Im a hobbiest, have painted several cars in my life, mostly single stage solid colors, did a metalic green once and had terrible stripes. My latest adventure was base/clear with both black and metalic gray pearl, came out real nice. I think my success was due to research on the internet and help from a couple guys here. Sata has some good videos and I learned that there are slow painters and fast painters, in the past I did slow passes with 50% overlap, after watching the videos I increased my speed and did 70% ovelaps. This method of faster passes greatly reduced any chance for problems and the last coat being a drop coat left no stripes at all. Like you said you will get lots of gun time doing the primers,by the time you get to base the gun will feel real good in your hand and you will have your mapping down so you get even coverage wtihout missing anything. There are paint lines out there geared for the hobbiestl, I used SPI primers and clear and would recommend you check them out for their quality and support if you get into trouble.
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Old 09-08-2011, 11:02 PM
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I'm sorry I could have sworn he said SS. With a bc/cc there is almost no difference honestly. It is still a little bit of work but a basic "drop coat" after it's covered and you are good to go with most basecoats.

Brian
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Old 09-11-2011, 07:36 AM
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I find the biggest and most popular mistake a newbie makes is they try to make a base shine like a SS Thats way to heavy and causes a lot of problems.
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Old 09-11-2011, 08:49 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by deadbodyman
I find the biggest and most popular mistake a newbie makes is they try to make a base shine like a SS Thats way to heavy and causes a lot of problems.
Yep, that is a hard one to overcome for lots of new painters. It doesn't have to look very good at all. And in fact will often look mottled with various degrees of gloss and what not, looking like HELL before the clear. Once cleared all that is usually gone. Knowing what you can see later or not is a HUGE part of the learning curve.

Brian
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Old 09-11-2011, 09:12 AM
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painting metalics

About 50 years ago I had My car all prepped ready to paint, My sister had a new house with NOTHING in the garage, and said I could use it to paint. It was over 100 degrees, and I only had a couple of days until I had to go back to school. I bought the Gm Anniversary gold metalic laquer, rented a gun and compressor, Mixed the paint as per the paint store and started and It was blowing cob webs out the gun. I checked with a friend and he said wait until it cooled down, or try to add a lot more thinner. I decided to thin and get the primer covered and try to do the top coat later. The paint came out very flat and flashed like primer. very dry.I laid all the paint on the car since I was paing for all day on the gun and compressor. after a couple of months I started to wet sand with 400 paper and was amazed that I got a smooth surface. It looked like gold sand under clear. I wet sanded it and then used rubbing compound by hand, It had a very high gloss surface with the sand look when your were close looking at it. Everyone asked how I did the trick paint.
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