metalwork issue - Hot Rod Forum : Hotrodders Bulletin Board
Hotrodders.com -- Hot Rod Forum



Register FAQ Search Today's Posts Unanswered Posts Auto Escrow Insurance Auto Loans
Hot Rod Forum : Hotrodders Bulletin Board > Tech Help> Body - Exterior
User Name
Password
lost password?   |   register now

Reply
 
LinkBack Thread Tools
  #1 (permalink)  
Old 08-13-2013, 10:37 PM
Registered User
 
Last photo:
Join Date: Mar 2013
Posts: 25
Wiki Edits: 0

Thanks: 0
Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts
metalwork issue

I seem to be stuck on this taillight and am a complete newbie, it needs a pretty deep flanged lip to recess the light trim into. the top is fine but the bottom half has been flattened from previous work and I need to re-create the lip. As you can see i tried to bend it best I could then use filler to build the lip up, but realized this wouldn't work well and chipped the filler away to try again. I bought a flanging gun but the die isn't deep enough. A friend of mine says I should make two small cuts in the lower corners and carefully put two bends into it with pliers or dollys then tack weld the corners back together. Just wondering if you have any ideas, I wish I could get a body guy over to do this bit for me, I'm worried it needs to be done right or will look akward forever.




    Advertisement
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
  #2 (permalink)  
Old 08-13-2013, 10:49 PM
put up or shut up
 

Last journal entry: saying goodbye to the beast
Last photo:
Join Date: Apr 2011
Location: Antelope, Ca
Posts: 2,045
Wiki Edits: 0

Thanks: 565
Thanked 224 Times in 203 Posts
the recessed part in the back, just forget about keeping that flat and perfect while doing this for now. I might try a few different things but the first thing that comes to mind is that I'd bend that flat recessed area inwards and with a good sharp dolly I'd recreate the depth of that edge, borrowing metal from the flat recessed area, then with duckbill pliers bend it back flat. That seems like the only way but then again I'd sit there for a couple minutes like a caveman trying to fit it and looking for any little thing that it could be other than the depth, like perhaps the part is bent, one corner not allowing it drop, etc-etc.. THEN, I'd do that. A bead roller can also work and would be the better choice but I'm assuming you don't have one.
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
  #3 (permalink)  
Old 08-14-2013, 01:13 AM
carolinacustoms's Avatar
Automotive Extraordinaire
 
Last photo:
Join Date: Dec 2012
Location: Connelly Springs NC
Age: 31
Posts: 963
Wiki Edits: 0

Thanks: 347
Thanked 240 Times in 204 Posts
From the looks of the picture, the whole rear half of the opening needs to be worked out using a hammer and dolly before the light will fit right (it looks like there is a bow/bend in the opening). If you have a friend that can help with holding a dolly on the outside while you work a hammer and maybe a bar/extension of some kind to get things worked a little closer on the quarter panel, (be sure to use something flat on the end) then work on the light recess area. As Tech stated, you can work the first inward bend of the recess in with a sharp dolly (or any piece of solid, sharp edged metal) and then bend the flange back up as needed with pliers, vise grips, etc then dolly everything out smooth.

Kelly
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
  #4 (permalink)  
Old 08-14-2013, 07:14 AM
Too Many Projects's Avatar
A few muscle cars & a Corvair
 

Last journal entry: continued
Last photo:
Join Date: Sep 2010
Location: Stillwater, MN
Posts: 454
Wiki Edits: 0

Thanks: 52
Thanked 233 Times in 188 Posts
Looks like the bumper took a hit and distorted the bezel area. You need to get all that filler off again and see where the material went for the recess. The whole area needs to be dollied back into shape before working on the recess.

You could also look for a donor cut out and just replace the entire bezel area AFTER the panel is re-shaped. What are you working on ? It bezel looks similar to a 68-72 GM truck but the bumper recess looks more like a 70-72 Chevelle.
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
The Following User Says Thank You to Too Many Projects For This Useful Post:
carolinacustoms (08-14-2013)
  #5 (permalink)  
Old 08-14-2013, 07:26 AM
killeratrod's Avatar
Registered User
 
Last photo:
Join Date: Nov 2012
Location: Florida
Posts: 2,215
Wiki Edits: 0

Thanks: 168
Thanked 403 Times in 359 Posts
X2 on that, what car is it. With all that filler . you may find it easy to just buy a new panel and weld it in.
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
  #6 (permalink)  
Old 08-14-2013, 09:47 AM
Registered User
 
Last photo:
Join Date: Apr 2011
Location: Arlington, VA
Posts: 88
Wiki Edits: 0

Thanks: 0
Thanked 1 Time in 1 Post
Could you just bend the bottom lip back and weld on a small vertical lip or tabs?
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
  #7 (permalink)  
Old 08-14-2013, 10:35 AM
Registered User
 
Last photo:
Join Date: Mar 2013
Posts: 25
Wiki Edits: 0

Thanks: 0
Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts
It is a 76 trans am
It does look like the rear took a small hit and the last person to repair and paint didnt fix it 100 percent.
The lower edge of both rear quarters needs replacing so i ordered those patch panels, but the new patch doesnt go as high as the light. I looked into getting a whole rear quarter and cutting off what i needed, but it was $300 and anything around here will probable be in worse shape than what i have. A repro quarter is probably expensive to buy and ship to canada and was told they dont fit as well as oem.
I have a couple other small patches to do today but will try the advice above asap.
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
  #8 (permalink)  
Old 08-14-2013, 10:58 AM
Registered User
 
Last photo:
Join Date: Mar 2013
Posts: 25
Wiki Edits: 0

Thanks: 0
Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts
here is before filler, you can see the narrow patch at the bottom and some bumps at the rear of the tail where it looks like maybe a puller was used.



here is after my filler work

Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
  #9 (permalink)  
Old 08-14-2013, 12:41 PM
Registered User
 
Last photo:
Join Date: Apr 2011
Location: Arlington, VA
Posts: 88
Wiki Edits: 0

Thanks: 0
Thanked 1 Time in 1 Post
My personal feeling is that I dislike the side marker lights anyway, so I'd just weld a patch over the whole opening and dispense with the issue entirely. But that's just me.
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
  #10 (permalink)  
Old 08-14-2013, 01:36 PM
Registered User
 
Last photo:
Join Date: Mar 2013
Posts: 25
Wiki Edits: 0

Thanks: 0
Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts
I also had that thought, car is going with a pro-touring look. I just hate to do something thats hard to reverse, would be nice to be able to easily put it back to orig.
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
  #11 (permalink)  
Old 08-14-2013, 02:28 PM
killeratrod's Avatar
Registered User
 
Last photo:
Join Date: Nov 2012
Location: Florida
Posts: 2,215
Wiki Edits: 0

Thanks: 168
Thanked 403 Times in 359 Posts
contact this place, they maybe able to help. have alot of used parts

firebird sheet metal
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
  #12 (permalink)  
Old 08-16-2013, 08:54 PM
Too Many Projects's Avatar
A few muscle cars & a Corvair
 

Last journal entry: continued
Last photo:
Join Date: Sep 2010
Location: Stillwater, MN
Posts: 454
Wiki Edits: 0

Thanks: 52
Thanked 233 Times in 188 Posts
That took more than a light hit. The panel is buckled forward of the marker hole too. It all needs to be pulled back more to relieve the buckles and dollied out around the marker hole. In reality, the last 3ft of the quarter should've been replaced with a donor.
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
  #13 (permalink)  
Old 08-17-2013, 08:17 AM
123pugsy's Avatar
HOT ROD...... FROM A CHRYSLER?
 
Last wiki edit: Metal shaping
Last journal entry: FLOOR BEADS
Last photo:
Join Date: Apr 2006
Location: Markham,ON
Age: 52
Posts: 2,363
Wiki Edits: 29

Thanks: 416
Thanked 254 Times in 222 Posts
Get a copy of this book and start tapping away with a hammer and dolly.

Key To Metal Bumping Book : Amazon.com : Automotive Key To Metal Bumping Book : Amazon.com : Automotive

Get yourself a shrinking disc as well.
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
  #14 (permalink)  
Old 08-17-2013, 02:28 PM
Registered User
 
Last photo:
Join Date: Mar 2013
Posts: 25
Wiki Edits: 0

Thanks: 0
Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts
Found some time the other day to work on it. Used an alum block and hammer to bend the lower half in and used pliers to bend the lip back. Definitaly not perfect but learned a bit. seems to fit way better than before. Tried to flatten out the whole panel a bit more best I could and then hit it with some epoxy. I might continue with filler now, I'm worried if I try to fix it more I will make it worse.





Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
  #15 (permalink)  
Old 08-17-2013, 03:19 PM
put up or shut up
 

Last journal entry: saying goodbye to the beast
Last photo:
Join Date: Apr 2011
Location: Antelope, Ca
Posts: 2,045
Wiki Edits: 0

Thanks: 565
Thanked 224 Times in 203 Posts
that looks good! Now you just have to metal work what's around it. Don't feel bad, it never ends. Least now you have something on it to gauge after you block it. Straight edges are always good to so you can compare to the other side. I like to use it straght and then rock it around checking differences. It can tell you what the eyes, hands, and guide coat can't. Very good for quarters that were smacked hard, especially by the wheel crown.
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message

Recent Body - Exterior posts with photos

Quick Reply
Message:
Options

Register Now

In order to be able to post messages on the Hot Rod Forum : Hotrodders Bulletin Board forums, you must first register.
Please enter your desired user name (usually not your first and last name), your email address and other required details in the form below.
User Name:
If you do not want to register, fill this field only and the name will be used as user name for your post.
Password
Please enter a password for your user account. Note that passwords are case-sensitive.
Password:
Confirm Password:
Email Address
Please enter a valid email address for yourself.
Email Address:

Log-in

Human Verification

In order to verify that you are a human and not a spam bot, please enter the answer into the following box below based on the instructions contained in the graphic.




Currently Active Users Viewing This Thread: 1 (0 members and 1 guests)
 
Thread Tools

Posting Rules
You may post new threads
You may post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are On
Pingbacks are On
Refbacks are On


Similar Threads
Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
Best 60s Issue of Hot Rod Magazine and best 50s Issue of Car Craft MXrider13 Hotrodders' Lounge 18 07-29-2011 01:55 PM
vacuum issue or carb issue idk for sure chevyok06 Engine 1 07-10-2011 05:19 PM
A/C issue ap0001 General Rodding Tech 5 05-20-2010 07:44 PM
10-12 Bolt U-joint Issue Issue MrB Transmission - Rearend 3 09-29-2007 08:17 AM
The next issue... draft Electrical 0 07-29-2004 05:27 PM


All times are GMT -6. The time now is 05:14 AM.


Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.7
Copyright ©2000 - 2014, vBulletin Solutions, Inc.
Search Engine Optimization by vBSEO 3.6.0 PL2
Copyright Hotrodders.com 1999 - 2012. All Rights Reserved.