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Old 11-15-2009, 03:00 PM
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Method advice for cowl work.

Ok just a little background

I now have my car down to this level and need some advice on how to proceed:

I will be painting the cowl the same as the body will be to keep everything origonal. What would be the best way to approach the cowl as far as prep for the paint. As I am only restoring the engine bay and engine the rest of the car will wait. I just want to get to drive her a bit while I save to do the full resto.

I am starting out raw here..virtually no tools. hell my tool box is a wooden chest of drawers FGS! Anyway, I do have a drill or a die grinder with some wire wheels but surely there are better ways. I have priced some good air compressors but that is cost prohibitive atm. I do plan on one when I do the rest of the car its just that I'm into allot of money just to get the car mechanically on the road.

So how do I clean up this mess so I can paint it?

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Old 11-16-2009, 11:03 AM
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Hey Stealthbob,

I am in the process of doing a similar project. Here is what I did, and so far things are going great and looking good.

First, I removed and bagged everything I could from the firewall and the frame. I photographed everything too as a backup to my less-than-perfect memory. I labeled every bag so I was sure I had all the parts relating to the final assembly. In some cases I even went so far as to put nuts and bolts back into the respective holes in the part to be sure it goes back together the same way.

Second, I masked off anything I did not want to get soiled, painted, wet, etc. with plastic garbage bags, masking tape, newspaper, etc.

Third, I cleaned everything with an industrial grade degreaser. I had to do it several times before it was all clean. I used a spray-on foaming type product so I could control the area I was cleaning. Search the web and you will find lots of degreaser products to choose from. Clean surfaces are critical to a successful long-lasting result.

Fourth, I sanded all the surfaces to be painted. Since you are not changing anything, you don't need to be concerned with filling holes and making new holes. Take your time sanding and be sure to get into the corners and crevaces as much as possible.

Fifth, prime everything with a good quality primer. Check out some of the previous posts for tips on primers. After priming, sand again, only this time with finer grit paper. You are trying to make all surfaces smooth and uniform. Then clean everything again and reprime.

Sixth, go to finish paint. Base coat, clear coat or one-stage color. Again check out previous posts for info and tips.

Seventh, repeat the previous steps on the large components that you removed that will be visible in the final assembly. Don't forget the screws and bolts. They are part of the final assembly too.

Lastly, Final assembly should include new gaskets, locktite (when needed) cleaned or new wiring, hoses, clamps, etc.

Your project will take 2-3 times longer to complete than you first estimate, if you are doing it alone and when time and money allow (like I am). But each step done well will bring you that much closer to doing the work only once and it should hold up well beyond the time when you do the entire resto.

Good Luck!
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Old 11-16-2009, 11:31 AM
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For objects that your don't want to remove like some cables,rods,steering gear,etc. Aluminum foil makes super masking material.Just wrap it up and have at it.
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Old 11-16-2009, 02:36 PM
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Thanks guys...

So I don't have to clean down to bare metal then?

Also I have that spray rubber crap that now is rock hard around the grommet areas and the sides...I am trying to take that off with a die grinder with a wire wheel.

So just good old fashioned hand sanding and a good degreasing should be enough for prep?

I like that idea with the tin foil...I will certainly try that.
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