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Old 03-06-2007, 08:30 PM
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Mig welding a Rotisserie

Does anyone have an opinion about mig welding a rotisserie with .030 wire. I'm going to use Jon's plans, which calls for .035 wire. The welder I'm going to use, Chicago Electric 150T, will only accept up to .030. Any input/advice will be greatly appreciated.

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Old 03-06-2007, 09:09 PM
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I made mine with a 110 mig and .23 wire, I have rolled this body on here for two years, also over rough concrete, no problems, on my site I have a couple different sections on it. Even stood up to sandblasting and rolling it over with a lot of sand in it, and they will get heavy while you're sandblasting the body.

A 110 mig will handle building a rotisserie and any part on a car.

Rob


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Old 03-06-2007, 09:20 PM
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If you have concerns about your equipment or technique, weld up some scraps of the material you intend to use and try to seperate them. If the weld breaks, your weld needs help...If your metal bends at a point away from the weld... you are all set.

You don't need anything more than a big hammer and sturdy vise.

They call that destructive testing

I do it myself when I am in doubt about a joint design.

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Old 03-07-2007, 08:23 AM
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On metal that heavy you really need to pre-heat before welding with light equipment and small wire, just heat the joint with a torch until it is just too hot to touch with your bare hand. If you start out on cold metal with that small wire the first part of the weld will chill much too fast inducing thermal shock and possibly under-bead cracking, not as likely on mild steel that you will probably be using but possible. Whether you get under-bead cracking or not the weld will be much stronger if you pre-heat it first especially if you are using only one or two passes. Proper pre-heat will not lead to more warpage and in fact can help to reduce it but of course proper bracing to control warpage is a must anyway. I know some will tell you that pre-heat will cause the weld area to become too hot but this simply is not true because when properly done the surrounding metal will sink off the extra heat and the weld will simply be about the same temperature at the beginning as the finish.
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Old 03-07-2007, 10:58 AM
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Also bevelling your edges will help. Be SURE to remove all scale! The black mill scale eats up alot of your heat, by trying to cut through it. Grind it clean, and you will see a difference.

Another thing.... you have a short duty cycle. So weld short distances, and let the welder rest. You will lose heat fast when it starts loading up. Result looks like a catapillar crawling across your metal, instead of a nice weld.
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Old 03-07-2007, 11:00 AM
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I have to say that I agree with oldred. I would preheat just enough to knock the chill out of the metal. I would make sure you are welding hot and using good technique. I weld 3/8 test plates all day with .35 wire in 3-4 passes depending on position. I think you'll be fine.

Kris Ferguson
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Old 03-07-2007, 02:45 PM
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Thanks for all the input. I have a friend that is letting me use his ark welder. I'll feel more confident that it will handle the load using it.
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Old 03-08-2007, 06:25 AM
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Been, You caught me asleep on that one The part about the beveling and removing mill scale/rust/dirt/oil/paint/etc is at least as important as the pre-heat if not more so I was just thinking about using that little MIG to weld thicker plate. There seems to be a common misconception that a 110 volt MIG with .030 wire is limited to no more than 3/16" plate but when one uses the pre-heat (after proper joint prep) and multiple passes then about the only limit to the small machines is the duty cycle.

Web, You never mentioned what type of gas you have so when you say MIG are you really using a MIG or a flux core welder?
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Old 03-08-2007, 04:06 PM
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It has argon gas. But I'm going with the ark welder.
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