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Old 08-02-2008, 11:24 AM
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MII problems- update ( w/ VIDEO )

Thanks to everyone who helped me with my first post. I did get the correct balljoints ( not installed but they look 95% the same and measure the same size when checked w/ calipers ). Turns out there's two balljoints, one that is a 772, and one that's a 719 but $100 vs. $30 for the 772. In my research, the front end seems to be a TCI, not Heidts.

Before I tear it all apart, however, I am still trying to discover what is making the "clang" /"bind" sound so I can be sure to fix that too. I have heard a different answer from each person who has looked at the car. So I did some elaborate tripod/camera setup using some jackstands for support, and took a bunch of video w/me pushing the car up and down. You can hear the clang. Watch it for yourself and tell me what you think.

I am such at a loss, and the Woodward Cruising begins in a weeks' time. I am so desperate, that whoever correctly identifies the problem, since I am more of an artist than a repairman, I will send you one of my hot rod paintings for free ( my painting gallery )

Here are the videos:

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=JjNuNsyAK6w
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=WERjBfuQZzQ
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-gwSIQWfnww
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=KSPDQGfiWfY
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=eGVW6uFr6GU
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bLF9ACmt5Xw

Thanks!

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Old 08-02-2008, 11:41 AM
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Have you checked the rubber bushing that goes between the coil spring and the perches?

If it is torn, or pushed out, the coil spring can creek against the metal.

That is what it sounds like to me in the video, not so much the ball joints.

Jason
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Old 08-02-2008, 12:36 PM
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It looks like the bushing is still there, I really wanted just to take everything apart to see, but I was told not to take it apart myself, because as soon as I bust apart the old ball joints, the spring will expand and shoot up against the fender or worse, out at me. Is that BS? It seems like I should be able to unbolt everything....

Quote:
Originally Posted by 41willys
Have you checked the rubber bushing that goes between the coil spring and the perches?

If it is torn, or pushed out, the coil spring can creek against the metal.

That is what it sounds like to me in the video, not so much the ball joints.

Jason
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Old 08-02-2008, 12:56 PM
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No, that is not BS, actually it is true. You can purchase a coil spring compressor, it will not allow for it to come flying out. You may possibly even rent or borrow one from your local parts store.

It may look like it is in there, but it could be worn out, worn through.

How are your upper shock mount bushings? Are they dried out, torn, collapsed or even missing. That too can cause a creek like you have. I went through the same thing on that too. I over tightened the nuts, causing them to be over compressed and they came apart.

Jason
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Old 08-02-2008, 02:05 PM
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To find the source, I would have someone move the suspension while you feel each part with your fingers. You should be able to feel that "noise" and keep moving you fingers to find the most vibration in whatever part you are touching.




Is it just my opinion? or is the spring rate WAY wrong for that car's weight?? .... meaning too stiff..
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Old 08-02-2008, 08:49 PM
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Crap. I took out the shock, and now I am in a worse predicament than I was before.

When I took the shock out, the lower control arm lowered, the spring extended and the upper control arm, likely mounted too far inboard, has the its balljoint/bushing stuck in between the spring and upper perch. I tried jacking up the lower control arm, no luck. I tried loosing the bolts of the upper control arm to slide it out, but no luck. I am out of ideas. Trying to fix one problem created another. Help!


Pix are below:



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Old 08-03-2008, 05:25 AM
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Good Gravy, Here we go again....

Does it look like this one??






Here is the recent thread concerning the above pic. I think you should read the suggestions and then report back.

Yet another Must II cry for help


By the way, if you move the jack directly under the lower balljoint, you can compress the spring back to where it was. Try that and let us know. Like I said in my last post, the spring rate seems wrong...or too long...or?
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Old 08-03-2008, 05:59 AM
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Yeah, that is a problem. Do what F&J stated, put the jack just below the lower ball joint.

Your shocks should not be holding everything together. Do you have a heavy rate spring like F&J asked, with possibly a lowered spindle set up?
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Old 08-03-2008, 08:35 AM
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Yes, it does. Great info. I will read all the suggestions and try it. I did try jacking up the lower arm by taking off the jack saddle and getting the jack right up in between the lower shock mount, but it had no effect. I will try the balljoint.

Not sure about the spring rate. After much research, I think I have a TCI setup and they recommend a 350# spring rate for 35-40 Fords ( 425 for HD, I don't think I need that. ) Does this sound correct?

click here for TCI Springs

I really appreciate everyone's help. I would be lost without it. I really want to be able to hot rod my car from a mechanical point of view instead of just artistic, but I've had no idea where to start, never doing more than changing tires and oil. These replies are big help. Thanks again !!!!!!!


Quote:
Originally Posted by F&J
Good Gravy, Here we go again....

Does it look like this one??






Here is the recent thread concerning the above pic. I think you should read the suggestions and then report back.

Yet another Must II cry for help


By the way, if you move the jack directly under the lower balljoint, you can compress the spring back to where it was. Try that and let us know. Like I said in my last post, the spring rate seems wrong...or too long...or?
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Old 08-03-2008, 09:11 AM
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Sounds like the shock was limiting the outer limit of the setups decompression; whereas the shock, when it reached it's max length, was making the clanging sound.
How does the car set and ride? If you are satisfied with ride height and ride; then the springs may be ok; but the shocks may be incompatible.
If you decide to get a spring compressor to disassemble the suspension; be sure to read up on usage as the procedure for using can be very dangerous.
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Old 08-03-2008, 09:23 AM
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I'm satisfied with the ride height and ride, just needed to get rid of the clang noise.

I would like to get new shocks, and balljoints and adjust the system properly. How dangerous could is the spring compressor? Doesn't it help hold the spring in place? Is this beyond a novice job?


Quote:
Originally Posted by Fergusonic
Sounds like the shock was limiting the outer limit of the setups decompression; whereas the shock, when it reached it's max length, was making the clanging sound.
How does the car set and ride? If you are satisfied with ride height and ride; then the springs may be ok; but the shocks may be incompatible.
If you decide to get a spring compressor to disassemble the suspension; be sure to read up on usage as the procedure for using can be very dangerous.
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Old 08-03-2008, 09:34 AM
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Using a Spring Compressor is not beyond a novice capability. You just have to be careful. for instance,,,when you remove the compressed spring you wouldn't want to just toss it aside on the garage floor. When you remove the spring I was taught to always handle the compressed spring with the ends of the spring away from you. Just read up on it and you'll be just fine.
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Old 08-04-2008, 04:40 AM
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Gotcha. Thanks!

Quote:
Originally Posted by Fergusonic
Using a Spring Compressor is not beyond a novice capability. You just have to be careful. for instance,,,when you remove the compressed spring you wouldn't want to just toss it aside on the garage floor. When you remove the spring I was taught to always handle the compressed spring with the ends of the spring away from you. Just read up on it and you'll be just fine.
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Old 08-04-2008, 06:01 AM
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I have a spring compressor like this one ...and it works well with the Pinto/Mustang II springs
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Old 08-04-2008, 08:51 PM
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Bobby,

From the vids, it looks like your upper shock mount is quite loose. That could explain the clanging; the noise appears to occur on the rebound; when the chassis rises upward after compression. Check to make sure the shock shaft fits tightly within it's bore in the upper spring hat, and that the bushings are in good shape and snug when tightened. And make sure the shock travels fully (and smoothly) throughout it's stroke. Lastly, check that the shock is long enough to accomodate the suspension travel. The shock should be able to extend a bit further even with the chassis raised with the wheel just off the ground. In other words, the shock should not be holding the a-arms from spreading apart. If it is, you found your problem; too short a shock.
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