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Old 03-11-2008, 03:49 PM
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MII Suspensions

What is the best company for MII Suspensions if im on a budget? Something Cheap but at the same time well made. I found this place http://www.fulltiltstreetrods.com/hub_to_hub.htm

Thanks
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Old 03-11-2008, 04:19 PM
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That site is NOT cheap. As for quality I couldn't tell you if they're good or not. When it comes to Mustang II IFS and cheap the only way to go is a crossmember and top hat kit along with stock Mustang upper and lower control arms, strut rods and spindles. Not tubular control arms or coil over shocks.

Heidts makes, IMHO the best quality, most accurate crossmember out there and it can be had for around $500 depending on the application. That and some judicious swap meet shopping can net you a complete system for under a grand. If you opt for an 11" GM disk brake kit and new control arms and spindles then your probably in the $1200-$1400 range as opposed to a complete kit from a manufacturer which will run around $2000.

A word of caution when it comes to the Mustang II IFS. Do NOT go for the strut rod elimination kits. They will create a weak point in any manufacturer's crossmember and have in the past resulted in failures. The system was designed by Ford to use strut rods and works very will that way.
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Old 03-11-2008, 04:26 PM
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There are a good many different folks making the Mustang II/Pinto suspension kits. It would HELP to know what vehicle you are planning on working on.

Because you only have a few posts, I suspected that you may have been posting this as a ADVERTISEMENT for you own business ... but the company is in Colorado and you are not SO ... I will leave the link ...

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Old 03-11-2008, 05:02 PM
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Sorry, Im working on a 1964 Econoline Van. but I didnt want to turn this into an ongoing econoline suspension thread.
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Old 03-11-2008, 09:53 PM
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All I had to do is spend 13 seconds on that website to see the quality...
That is the cheesiest looking crap I've ever seen. I am willing to run the tubular A arms on a MII, (Not to start the strut rod argument here, we all know where we stand on that one, Deuce, Centerline) but this setup is just the worst substitute for no strut rods I've ever seen.




Scary.

Hardly no triangulation at all, and that little tiny arm is bolted to a stock sheetmetal arm in the weakest place, on the side....Absolutely no forces are transfered back to the frame with that setup.








No sir.... that stuff is crap. With a company that sells junk like that , I can imagine what the rest of the fab work looks like.

The company looks like a bunch of kids run it.
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Originally Posted by "about us" page from full tilt
We have been in the 'rod biz for years! We have had the fever forever. We started out in Southern California and it definitely influenced our taste in hot rods. Our business philosophy is to treat our customers in the best way possible because we know we are helping them build their dreams! (The four wheeled kind anyway!)

Lame posers.

Anyone want to know what I really think?


I would not use that front end if you gave it to me.

Heidts, Fatman. Chassis Engineering, even Speedway motors..check those guys out.


later, mikey
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Old 03-12-2008, 01:29 PM
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I have two questions regarding MII front ends and the pictures in this discussion give me the illustrations that I need.

First, in the picture of the assembled front end it appears that the crossmember is "open" from one side to the other. In other words, the crossmember is made up of tubing and plates and whatever else, and at the ends there is nothing that closes off those ends. Maybe it is just this setup, havent really had the opportunity to look at others, but wondering if there are parts included in anyones MII to close that off or is that up to the builder?

Second, in the pictures of the individual parts there is what looks like a gussett next to each of the lower control arms. Looking at other advertisements, I see something similar that looks to be included with tubular lower control arms. Are they gussetts? And I am guessing that they are something that the builder needs to weld to the crossmember when installing that specific lower control arm?

Am I on the right track?

Bill
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Old 03-12-2008, 03:22 PM
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Bill,

My Heidts was also "open", it butts against the boxing plates and welded to them, so no reason (I can see) for a "closed" end on the crossmember.

I'm not sure abuot the manufactured pictured, but my mine came will all gussets Tig'ed in beforehand...

Only welding needed was the crossmember and upper shock mounts (besides boxing plates).

If I can locate my camera, I'll post some pis later tonight.
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Old 03-12-2008, 08:06 PM
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I agree with Mikey,These are your better one's Heidts, Fatman. Chassis Engineering,
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Old 03-13-2008, 01:13 AM
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open ends on cross members

I have used both products from this company. the open end is left open to use the stock lower a-arm. what the pictures don't show that there is a 3 in. round rod made to put inside the cross member with a 5/8 hole in it that is welded in place if you don't use the stock lower a-arm. this makes the 5/8 hole solid all the way thru the cross member. the only way to have problems is to shear the bolt off running thru the cross member and a-arm. remember one mans JUNK is another mans treasure. we shouldn't thrash something we have never used. Jonathan
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Old 03-13-2008, 07:40 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ohmy34
I remember one mans JUNK is another mans treasure. we shouldn't thrash something we have never used. Jonathan

I can tell just by looking at that design of a arms being sold by Full Tilt Streetrods, that it is junk, a poor design that has had no engineering at all and WILL fail in a short amount of time ..There is not enough spread between the inner pivot ends to be strong enough for any kind of normal use under a car.

Go spend some time looking at similar designs and dissassembling them and seeing where the wear and deformation is.


I have.



Later, mikey
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Old 03-13-2008, 08:22 AM
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I'm in hte process of installing a TCI unit. Here's a pic before final weld...
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Old 03-13-2008, 10:29 AM
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As a Moderator here, I must say that the Pinto/Mustang II IFS is one of the MOST discussed if not the MOST discussed thread topics here on the Hotrodders.com Suspension-Brakes-Steering forum

Cussed a LOT also

Just because someone sells a product or someone might have gotten lucky and used a product without failure ... does not mean that everything is OK. The main issue I have with them is the ones that do away with the strut rod and kits in vehicles way too heavy for a lightweight, disposable economy car designed almost 30 years ago.

Whenever making a modification to anything as important as these components are ... be very, very careful and do lots of research.

Deuce ...
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Old 03-13-2008, 02:25 PM
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Deuce, I appreciate your input and guidance. My project is a 56 F100. It came with two frames, one with what is purported to be a Fatman front crossmember and the other a completely stock leaf spring setup. And that is why I am asking, trying to decide which way to go.

CamSweet, thanks for the picture. Your lower control arm has the tab/gussett or whatever that I was trying to identify. It comes with the lower control arm and then is welded to the crossmember for additional support to the control arm? My other question was the "open" end of the crossmember where it drops below the blocking plates on the frame. Are there pieces to close that opening?

And Powerrodsmike, even as a newbie to all of this, I can tell that I would agree with your assessment of this particular product.

Thanks guys
Bill
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Old 03-13-2008, 03:53 PM
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Hi Bill,
This is a TCI unit and comes with the gusssets pre installed. The ends of the crossmember are still open but the captive tube is two inches inside any edge. The crossmember is bent up from one pice of 3/16" plate.

Cam
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Old 03-13-2008, 07:56 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by v8muscle
I have two questions regarding MII front ends and the pictures in this discussion give me the illustrations that I need.

First, in the picture of the assembled front end it appears that the crossmember is "open" from one side to the other. In other words, the crossmember is made up of tubing and plates and whatever else, and at the ends there is nothing that closes off those ends. Maybe it is just this setup, havent really had the opportunity to look at others, but wondering if there are parts included in anyones MII to close that off or is that up to the builder?

Second, in the pictures of the individual parts there is what looks like a gussett next to each of the lower control arms. Looking at other advertisements, I see something similar that looks to be included with tubular lower control arms. Are they gussetts? And I am guessing that they are something that the builder needs to weld to the crossmember when installing that specific lower control arm?

Am I on the right track?

Bill
Bill, I'll try to answer your questions.

1. Most manufacturers' crossmembers are "open" on each end. The consensus among experienced builders is to go ahead and close those ends off, using the same gauge steel plate as the crossmember. It'll add additional strength/rigidity and will help eliminate "tear-out" of the lower a-arm pivot.

2. Those gussetts are intended to strengthen the lower a-arm pivot tube, to transfer the forces into the crossmember. Most of today's kits come with them already welded into place. Some still come with them loose for the builder to weld on. I suppose some others don't come with them at all. I'd avoid those kits!

If you go with a kit that uses tubular a-arms, make sure the kit you choose comes with a one-piece lower pivot tube, and that it spans the full distance between the a-arm bushings.

Hope this helps.

Last edited by AntnyL; 03-13-2008 at 07:58 PM. Reason: To clarify my comment.
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