I have seen that 3M launched a new clear coat sanding system. Sand damp with a Trizact abrasive in place of the dry Finishing Film is used. Then you follow it up with the Trizact Foam disc (3,000 grit) damp. Then buff with a new Perfect-it Rubbing Compound, Then Swirl Mark Remover, and Finally Ultrafina (optional) or a Hand Glaze.


New 3M Clear Coat Repair System

[QUOTE=edselman59] Then Swirl Mark Remover, and Finally Ultrafina (optional) or a Hand Glaze.[QUOTE]

Swirl mark remover looks fantastic till you wash the car then you see all the swirl marks that the swirl mark remover filled. Best bet is to skip the swirl mark remover and just use a foam pad with ultrafine compound, and also skip the glaze. And if it's fresh paint, give it a month or so then several coats of a quality wax.

Vince

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I have to tell you Dewey, for a "virgin" like yourself, I would hand wet sand the clear it is WAY safer. The ORBITAL sander (Not a "DA") is the way to go to get it done fast, but good old hand sanding is pretty hard to beat.

Now, the brand of paper can make a BIG difference. I use Meguiars paper "Unigrit" (it is made by someone else, the name escapes me now) and is the BEST, hands down, NO comparison. It makes 3M look stupid, lasts MUCH longer and cuts more even, MUCH better than every brand I have ever used and I have used just about everyone you can find out there. It is EXPENSIVE, about twice what 3M costs, but it is well worth it.
Click here for Meguiars

Get yourself a little 3m "squeegee" #05518. This will allow you quickly squeegee off a small area and see where you are at in the sanding process throughout the sanding process so you DON'T sand thru. You are in complete control.

Sand a little, squeegee off the water and see what you have, then sand a little more. It is real user friendly.

I have to say, color sanding and buffing is one of my most favorite steps, because of this total control you have. You can make a finish near flawless, you are in complete control of the finished product.
Have fun!

Brian

[QUOTE=302 Z28][QUOTE=edselman59] Then Swirl Mark Remover, and Finally Ultrafina (optional) or a Hand Glaze.

I would say that if you are getting swirl marks after Swirl Mark Remover then you are getting some filling. Solution: Go a little longer with the Swirl Mark Remover, then Step to the Ultrafina OR get your hands on a 5" Dynabuffer (5" random orbital buffer) and use it with either Swirl Mark Remover or Ultrafina. That is typically what you see in production floors for large area repairs (busses, cars, dark colors on boats, planes). The "throw" on the tool REALLY breaks up the swirl from the straight rotary tool. Like instantly! But be ready to pay a little for an industrial tool like this.

On most manufacturing process that I have run across, the 5" Dynabuffer cuts out at least 1 buffing operation in a sequence, and in a production setting that is huge.