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  #16 (permalink)  
Old 08-01-2012, 04:03 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 91CamaroDude View Post
I actually have them wired to a toggle switch, with a 160 tstat, and I turn em on a few miles down the road generally around 150 - 160. And with that It keeps it just below 200 on a normal commute to work. If im out toolin around town maybe a little higher but not the 220-230 i used to get before I turned the fan around
Fans are puller correct? Never use pusher. May need a shroud if they dont drop the temp nice and quick like they should. Also it's a good idea to get a real controller. Save's gas since they arent pulling power from the engine the whole time you're driving and its safer to just have them come on by temperature instead of you having to remember them every time.

160 is too cold for a sbc, its not efficiant. Need a 180.

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  #17 (permalink)  
Old 08-01-2012, 05:00 PM
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Okay got home today and tried a few things. Yes it was too far advanced, the first start of the day was fighting the timing. Retarded it some, boom good as gold, no hard start up. The cooling I will get to after I figure out this miss, only because it's not my dd so I'm not putting hardly any miles on it.

But I got a new wire today, found the irradic wire and switched em. Still no luck, it's probably firing 66% of what everything else is. So I'm deff leaning towards internally in the dizzy. But I would like to try and follow what you had recommended before.

Let me see if I can put it in my way of thinking:

Rotate the wires on the terminal one forward. Line the cap back up with the correct firing order and see if the original miss in cyl 5, would actually have moved to cyl 7 and see if I'm still getting that miss?
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Old 08-01-2012, 05:53 PM
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Hmm that sounds right. Firing order is 18436572 so you move wire 1 to terminal 8, wire 8 to terminal 4 etc... Basically one forward, which i think u got. Make a mark on the manifold where #1 wire currently is then when you move the wires over, so wire 2 will be on the line so you just turn the dizzy so #1 lines up with it.
I'm trying to say it in the least confusing way i can. It sounded right the way you explained it so go with that.
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Old 08-01-2012, 06:03 PM
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Right, without actually having it in front of you it's kinda hard to explain but I think i got it. I rotated the wires one forward. Got it timed, still missing on cyl 5. Same as before. It's strange cuz I don't feel it missing as much as the light is showing lol
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Old 08-01-2012, 06:10 PM
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I took off the cap, and what I assume to be the rotor and all looks good and in tact. The only thing is the metal contacts on what I assume to be the rotor have separated once before like I can take both parts out, and looks like there was once glue on the top metal piece. Is this normal?
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Old 08-01-2012, 07:00 PM
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Check what the other cylinders are doing. Maybe It's having a problem on all of them. Or try moving the plugs around.
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Old 08-01-2012, 07:30 PM
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The quickest way I know how to check for a miss is to start at No. 1 spark plug wire. Disconnect the wire at the spark plug to see if engine dies any. If it does reconnect and move to the next plug wire. Complete left side first then move to right side. If you pull a wire and engine idle does't change, replace spark plug with a new one. If this does not help ground the spark plug wire to metal. If no arc swap out wire with another to see if you get fire. If still no fire check the under-side of cap. Look for a carbon trail from center black button (coil) to any of the eight terminals or if terminals are corroded. Replace the cap and rotor. If this does not fix the problem check out this: Mallory Ignition 8360M - Mallory Promaster Series Distributors - Overview - SummitRacing.com. Call the order in by phone so you can tell the salesperson that you want the three wire dizzy. It also comes in a two wire model that will need an ignition box. Throw the GM HEI in the thrash.
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Old 08-01-2012, 07:33 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 91CamaroDude View Post
I took off the cap, and what I assume to be the rotor and all looks good and in tact. The only thing is the metal contacts on what I assume to be the rotor have separated once before like I can take both parts out, and looks like there was once glue on the top metal piece. Is this normal?
This is not normal, nothing on this cap should be loose. See url is this the rotor you have? ACDelco ACF-D426R - ACDelco Distributor Rotors - Large Image - SummitRacing.com
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Old 08-01-2012, 07:39 PM
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I checked them last night, not today, but all other wires were working great. I mean its not a huge noticible miss like some modern v6 or even 4 cyl and when they shake real bad, its almost hardly noticible but because I know the car i can feel it and it bugs the crap out of me.

Check out this picture, where I have pointed out theres a red bridge piece almost where i pointed out in blue. Mine is missing. Could this be it?
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  #25 (permalink)  
Old 08-02-2012, 10:15 AM
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misfire

If suspect, buy a new one. You know it is broke. The metal contact suppose to be molded to the rotor, not removable. To be on the safe side I would replace the cap and rotor, what's $20 not to have the headaches you are having.
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Old 08-02-2012, 11:39 AM
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You can do the cap and rotor if you want, but they way i think is that if part of it is rigged, you dond know what else is.
Jegs sell a brand new ready to run hei for $79.99. You can find them on ebay even cheaper. Just get a new dizzy. Even if for some reason it doesnt solve the problem it sounds like yours is messed up anyway and i would replace it.
BUT, before you do anything, move the plugs around, you may have a bad plug on that cylinder. Or you can put an old one in it. Whatever you want.
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Old 08-03-2012, 10:34 AM
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Got a new cap and rotor yesterday, put it on and guess what. No more problems in cylinder #5...it moved to #2. I went to Star Performance and got it for $15 bucks. It deff improved the lack of spark I have been having and has smoothed out the idle, but its still having a lack of spark. The very last part im going to get today for it before just buying a new dizzy is the ignition module. I know it might just be better to get a new dizzy but Im out the 90 bucks for a week or two till I can finally get it in versus just running up to Star and getting it first hand. Immediate gratification. Would anyone else presume that would be the next best bet? Worst comes to worse, i take back the cap n rotor, the module and then just get a new dizzy, so I wont really be out any money. Suggestions?
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Old 08-03-2012, 12:23 PM
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Misfire

That sounds like a winner. Glad you can return electrical parts if they don't work! If you have an ignition box get a decent distributor when getting a new one. Most cheap ones are Chinese made and most have alot of problems. I have had the MSD Pro-Billet since 1998 for my 67 Camaro 454 and it's still good.
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  #29 (permalink)  
Old 08-03-2012, 01:35 PM
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Originally Posted by 91CamaroDude View Post
Worst comes to worse, i take back the cap n rotor, the module and then just get a new dizzy, so I wont really be out any money.
Haha dont say that! I just got b****ed out by 5 different people for saying something similar the other day lol

Like i said, just get the dizzy. Do you have autozone near you? The have them in stock all the time
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Old 08-03-2012, 05:39 PM
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Sonofab**** theres money out the window. Forgot about the no return policy. Ignition module..fail. Cap and rotor..fail. iv always tried to fix things before I go off n replace 'em. But it looks like its not gonna happen.
I have plenty of parts stores around but star has always done pretty well with the things I need. Oh well you live an you learn I guess.
Next thing I get will be a dizzy and until then if anyone has had this problem and knows a remedy feel to chime in. Thanks for your guys help I do appreciate the feedback.
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