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Old 12-23-2008, 12:47 PM
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mixed signal from my NP205 spells disaster

vibrations going down the road in four wheel drive. i'm not thinkin transfer case yet cause of my welded rear end. it's caused me to blow u joints in my rear driveline before. so i do put it in 2 hi and i still get the vibes. then i stop and i unlock the hubs and drive down the road some more. still get the vibes. this makes me think it's GOT to be in the rear end, or possibly the tranfer case. so i look at my rear driveline, try to lube it but i'm out of grease. i didn't even give looking at the front a thought, unfortunately, cause when i putt down the road to get the grease on I5 in 4x4, my front driveline falls off the front of the txfer case and into a snow bank.

it came off because there was one missing bolt holding it onto the front of the 205 for quite a while apparently, and another fell out so then the other two sheared off.

my question is this: when i had my truck in 2 HI and the hubs unlocked, why was i still getting a vibration? was the front driveline coming off just a coincidence? or do i have to rebuild the transfer case or at least look inside.
i am pulling it apart anyway cause the driveline sheared the large shifter fork in half before it went bye bye. what are the odds there is something else wrong inside there that caused the vibrations in 2 HI, or
why would the front drive line issue cause bad vibes?

another question. if you think the txf case had other probs, do you think they were caused by having a welded carrier on a 5500 lb vehicle with 36" mud terrains almost all street driven?

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Old 12-23-2008, 04:01 PM
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The front shaft will normally still spin in 2hi with the hubs unlocked. It won't spin quite as fast as if it was all locked up but it will still spin. Does it still have a vibration with no front driveshaft?
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Old 12-23-2008, 05:27 PM
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I would verify that with your front hubs unlocked you can turn the wheel hub and the inner axle still does not turn.Then verify that with your shifter in the 2H position you can spin the T/C rear output and the front output in seperate directions.
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Old 12-23-2008, 05:37 PM
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I have seen the roll pin break that holds the mode fork to the shift rail and the shifter will move but it won't take the T/C out of the lock position.
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Old 12-23-2008, 08:48 PM
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well, i got the txr case out already. i could only go home in 4 LO so i couldn't go fast enuf to get a vibration at all w/o the driveline.

i guess i'm headed to Valley Gear differential and trans tomorrow to getta new fork, lessn my friend is 100% sure he can weld the old one. i am waiting till 8 tonight to see if he feels like me coming over there to f with the txr case or not. i want to take it apart but he would have to show me and he is all wet from workin outside all day. i want to take it apart tonight to get any other parts i need, other than just getting the new fork and then taking it apart on thurs or fri and having them be closed or even have to go back. it's an hour there one way on Rainier av, in seattle. i just have to wait and see if my friend is up to doing it tonight. or at least standing out in his freezing cold garage and telling me what to do.
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Old 12-23-2008, 10:29 PM
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Before you take it apart shift the T/C and see if everything is working correctly.
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Old 12-28-2008, 11:57 AM
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pro street i guess you are right about checking the hubs for unlocking. (it was too late anyway, but the shifter rail was what snapped in half. i thought the fork had the rail built into it but it doesnt. cost was about the same tho for either one: $45)

according to my friend who fixed my transfer case (i am putting it back in today, then i'm getting another front driveline from him, he just has this crap laying around, honest to God, and shortening it cause mine is basically grenaded): he says that when you drive in 4x4 with locking hubs for a long distance, like i drove up to Bellingham and back in 4x4 the whole way, that the grease in the hubs will flow to the other side of the hub and might prevent the weak spring in there from pushing it back out, and unlocking. I have NOT verified this by checking for axle rotation yet, but i am pretty damned sure thats what's going on. and i'll have to undo my hubs to get the grease out.

so i suspect, since nothing else seemed to be wrong inside the txr case, that this is what happened, and the vibration WAS coming from the front driveline turning while it was in 2HI. i basically took yesterday off just getting the txr case out of my car in my garage onto the tranny jack. gotta lotta work to do today. need to get my head out of my butt. thanks for the tips. they will come in handy NEXT TIME,
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Old 12-28-2008, 01:09 PM
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I take it then you have Warn hubs? Factory Spicer hubs don't use the spring to unlock (the use it to lock).
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Old 12-28-2008, 01:19 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Triaged
I take it then you have Warn hubs? Factory Spicer hubs don't use the spring to unlock (the use it to lock).
Unfortunately the spicer hubs are getting pretty rare,I hardly see them anymore.Warn and mile marker are the norm. I much prefer the spicer the early spicer hubs.
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Old 12-28-2008, 03:42 PM
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I think I have 2 sets of D44 Spicer internal hubs in my garage. You can still come across them at junkyards (at least around here). The ones that are very hard to come by are D60 Spicer hubs.

Whatever hubs you use there should be very little grease on them or they will stick. I use marine grease with a VERY thin coating over everything mostly to keep them from rusting. I learned my lesson packing a bunch of grease into a set of Spicers and I could never get them to lock.
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Old 12-29-2008, 03:19 PM
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i just tried putting the driveline in and before i did i jacked up the front end and put the WARN hubs in free. neither front drive shaft turned

i couldn't put the front driveline in, which was probably 1/4" longer than the one i took out because it was too long.

i have a feeling that the first one was too long too, which wasted the front CV joint and caused vibration. but i still can't figure out why it was vibrating in 2HI. i'm sure as hell the txr case was in 2HI when i put it there.

i am taking the driveline back to my friend again, (what a guy, he's alreadys saved me over a $1000 doin this for me), and we are going to take an inch out of it. no need to mess with my hubs. he has a jig he uses to keep the two halves straight and cuts them with a chop saw.

when i built my truck i used a chassis that had center-punched a telephone pole. i measured it as good as i could before i started and thought it was arrow straight. well, after i crashed into a ditch a couple years ago it went to a frame straightener and when i got it back my 13 or 14" air cleaner wouldn't clear the power brake booster on the firewall anymore and i had to go to a 10"er. so the truck was not straight before. so i am thinking when i had the drivelines made that the length was too long and it's been hosed since they straightened it out. that is what, i think, munched the front cv joint, causing the driveline to eject itself. but i still can't figure out why it would cause vibrations in 2HI with the hubs unlocked. back to square one except i've eliminated alot of possibilities.


with the txr case out the front drive would turn when you turned the back, but only if you did NOT hold it, ie it was just the oil viscosity or friction causing the front to turn, so i don't know
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Old 12-29-2008, 03:50 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bullheimer
it came off because there was one missing bolt holding it onto the front of the 205 for quite a while apparently, and another fell out so then the other two sheared off.

?
H'mmmm I think you found the vibration problem

Sam
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Old 12-30-2008, 11:19 AM
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i drove it to my friends with one hub, the right one, locked in 2HI and i felt the vibration again. when i drove home with them both unlocked. i didn't get a vibration. i will check that u joint in the axle better by the wheel.

in any event. my truck is back on the road again. FINALLY. my friend does these jobs all day everyday in ONE DAY. in the snow!!
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