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Old 07-06-2010, 01:19 PM
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Mixing paint brands

Here's the situation. I've tried twice now to paint my car with Nason metallic bc/cc. Both times I got stripping and the second time I also got molting. I never cleared the second base coat except for one panel to see if the problem would magically disappear under a clear coat. It didn't so now I've scuffed down the Base coat and I'm going to re-prime and repaint again. I've still got a gallon of Value-pro P330-1200 epoxy primer so I want to use that, and I've still got a gallon and 1/2 of Nason 497-00 clear so would like to use that as well. Question: Since I'm having bad luck and or poor skill results with Nason paint, should I/can I, change to a different brand of paint and use the primer and clear I have? Second question: I've got about 9 or 10 coats total on it now an am looking at adding another 6 or 7. Is that to much in total?
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Old 07-06-2010, 02:22 PM
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I doubt very seriously that it's the paints fault, more than likely application error. Striping is usually caused by too much material delivery or not enough overlap. I would develop a good technique first that solves the problems you are having before switching to another brand that will likely give you the same results.

9 or 10 coats is way too much and to add on top of that is just asking for more trouble.

Vince
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Old 07-06-2010, 02:58 PM
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9 or 10 way to much? 3 of each coat maybe more on the clear depends on how he mixed it when i clear bike tins i put on bout 5 or 6 coats
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Old 07-06-2010, 07:41 PM
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The wisdom of the eighties was that you never shoot more than three paint jobs, before stripping. Todays BC/CC is thicker... but tougher paint.

You decide what is too much risk.
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Old 07-07-2010, 08:12 AM
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Thanks guys. I'll do some sanding this week/weekend and remove a few layers of paint before I try it again.
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Old 07-07-2010, 03:16 PM
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take advantage of all that material build and use a big old sanding block and long sanding strokes loaded with 80 grit and get the panels dead flat or close to it, then you can hit it with the surfacer and block it down all the way to 600 grit. I am assuming you're spraying a metallic base, open up your pattern, turn up your pressure a little bit and make certain to overlap half each pass. Each successive coat of base needs to be at a 45 degree angle to the prior one. Three coats should get you there. Then give it a fog coat, tighten up your pattern and pull the gun back and fog the car, it'll help cover most any mottling. Don't touch the base with anything more aggressive than a tack cloth before spraying it with clear.

Good luck on the project. BTW: What is it? I'm assuming a Buick of some sort.
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Old 07-08-2010, 05:20 AM
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Nason Ful-base is a low end paint and I use a lot of it...many painters wont use it..Its a little tough to get the hang of,but when you get it you cant tell the finished look from the better more expensive bases. normally I'd say just get some chroma base ,thats much easier to use but since you have a bunch keep trying ....the trick is good over laps 75% and fog coats ...I also think you might be spraying it to wet,its not supposed to look like SS going on,its more of a semi shine. Depending on what your painting I dont think I'd strip it all off just yet...but you are getting close...
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Old 07-08-2010, 07:26 AM
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Thanks blown34, It's a 36 Buick coupe, not a straight panel on it, so It's tough to sand with a big sanding block. I wasn't thinking if sanding it all off DBM, Just 2 or 3 layers. Thanks guys.
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Old 07-08-2010, 08:58 AM
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Make up a small sanding block or two from cut down stir sticks or pieces of aluminum from the local metal shop. Be creative with block materials and you can get some great results with everyday stuff for blocks. A piece of hose wrapped in sanding paper works well on curved surfaces.
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