I hope you see this. PLEASE check that sintered bronze pilot bushing for iron contamination. By design sintered bronze has some ferrous material in it. However it should NOT be chunks of iron/steel that are plainly visible and it should NOT be magnetic. If the bushing is attracted to a magnet, either in the ID or the OD, it can damage the pilot on the input gear OR the ID of the crank (pilot hole). Google Oilite Bronze Bushings. If your bushing is magnetic; send it back. If you get in a bind for an oilite one, let me know.
The sad thing is the oilite bronze doesn't cost much (ours comes direct from Beemer Precision), and Ive seen guys ruin a $3000 transmission to a shoddy bushing. I am also NOT a fan of needle bearings. if its not installed dead nuts square into the back of the crank, they can fail and damage the input gear as well. GM has a very high quality one over the counter I think from diesel applications(?). I prefer the bronze bushing because its more tolerant of bellhousing/scattershield misalignment.
This brings up my next point. Please spend some time with a dial indicator and properly align your bellhousing. Plenty of guys bring me their transmission because it jumps out of high gear, and its almost always severe bellhousing misalignment. For a performance application; .003 - .005 TIR is preferred. You could go out as far as .00750 TIR, and a street car can get by with .010 TIR. TIR is Total Indicated Runout which is NOT (for example) .003" off center to the left. .003" off center in one direction is actually .006 TIR. There are plenty of tutorials on youtube.com to explain this better than I.