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Old 12-28-2012, 08:19 AM
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moly lube and years gone bye

Hello, I have a built up 355 that I screwed together in 1991-2
and after fitting engine in car.. car was totalled.. before it was fired..
(ever see an unmanned ford f-250 oilburner and a granny low crawl , I have)
anyways, I used moly lube on the cam /lifter/bearings/etc..
it's been 20+ years, is the lube on the bearings gonna be a died up mess, ?
why to I have a feeling I'm gonna be pulling this engine totally apart...

and what to use to get the lube off the bearing if dried, as not to hurt the bearing..

fill the oil pan with carb cleaner and use a priming tool to clear it all out..
lol.. is what my dad jokingly said.. " you got nothing to loose,you haven't used it in 20 years" I'm like the parts where big money, um,, no!!!!!
but ,I also was like hum, I wonder..

I'm pulling this thing down, correct,

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Old 12-28-2012, 08:42 AM
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after 20 years you're in for a mess, depending on the area you live in you may be in for a rusty mess.

It may have been big money 20 years ago but you'll likely have to go through everything and replace a lot of things. The bores probably need honed at a minimum, new rings and bearings, maybe a new cam, everything will need to be hot tanked, etc.

So after 20 years what you probably have is a good core.

That is in Missouri conditions. If you don't live in the rust belt things may not be as bad.
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Old 12-28-2012, 08:48 AM
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I would worry about the piston/wall lube being gone more than the moly lube. After the vehicle in the moly lube has evaporated the coating is still there and will function.

I would remove the oil pan. Shoot oil into the pistons/wall, then the camshaft/timing set. While hand rotating the engine. Then do the same with the rockers and top end parts. Assemble the pan/covers. Prime the oil system with a drill and oil with zinc additive. Fire her up.

I have done this on several crate motors that for various reasons have set in a warehouse for years. No adverse problems. Sometimes takes a while for the hyd lifters to work correctly but all have been good runners.
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Old 12-28-2012, 08:49 AM
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Take it apart,buy the gaskets.Is the engine bone stock? You may have a few junk valve springs,,,just take it apart,lol.
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Old 12-28-2012, 09:07 AM
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engine is sealed, duct taped and rockers backed off.. oil blasted into cyl every year.. turned over a few times then plug screwed back in..
far from stock..

oliover rods
lunati crank
trw lt1 forged pistons, total seal rinds
comp cam 292 flat
brodix trac 1's
etc etc etc
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Old 12-28-2012, 09:09 AM
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Ive started and run used engines that sat 20 years and didnt take them apart and oil them or anything like that at all. I would either dump fresh oil in the pan and prime the system with oil and a drill, or take it apart and clean everything up with lacquer thinner and put it back together.

I live in Missouri too and dont understand what AP72 is talking about when he says everything will be rusty. Like i said i ran a used engine that sat 20 years with out so much as even priming the oil system.
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Old 12-28-2012, 09:20 AM
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there are two kinds of wrong,I wish I took it apart,I didnt take it apart.

one option you do not know the results,one costs you the price of gaskets
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Old 12-28-2012, 09:22 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Torque454 View Post
Ive started and run used engines that sat 20 years and didnt take them apart and oil them or anything like that at all. I would either dump fresh oil in the pan and prime the system with oil and a drill, or take it apart and clean everything up with lacquer thinner and put it back together.

I live in Missouri too and dont understand what AP72 is talking about when he says everything will be rusty. Like i said i ran a used engine that sat 20 years with out so much as even priming the oil system.
I don't know what AP72 means either, we've started dodge flathead 4's and 6's that sat in the car in a barn for 50-60+ years, and it wasn't a rusty mess..

my fear is the moly lube dry'n up to a crust lol
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Old 12-28-2012, 09:24 AM
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Originally Posted by vinniekq2 View Post
there are two kinds of wrong,I wish I took it apart,I didnt take it apart.

one option you do not know the results,one costs you the price of gaskets
I figured I'd be pulling it apart but I figured I'd ask, as I sit in my bed bored to tears waiting on doctors answers..
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Old 12-28-2012, 10:23 AM
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We still use a Moly additive in the off road mining dump trucks in the Open Pit mines. Some have almost 200,000 hours on them. Not bad a for 2,800 cubic inch engine. There are shovels (105 yard buckets) that have been operating fro ten years or longer. Non-moly additive power plants never had a performance record like this with constant high stress use. Molybdemum is still actively mined world wide and is a top seller in the global market place.
Normbc9
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Old 12-28-2012, 10:25 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by gearheadslife View Post
I don't know what AP72 means either, we've started dodge flathead 4's and 6's that sat in the car in a barn for 50-60+ years, and it wasn't a rusty mess..

my fear is the moly lube dry'n up to a crust lol
I didnt sa it wouldn't run, I said it would be rusty. Pop the heads off an enigne that sat for a long time (years) and you'll see rust in the cylinders. Also, God only knows what happened to the coatings and lubes that were applied 20 years ago. As said, taking it apart is cheap insurance, if nothing else you should take it apart to thuroughly clean EVERYTHING. then relube, then fire.

A gasket set for a sbc is like what $30? Then again it depends if you just want it to run or you want to do it right. The halfassed "see what I can get away with" approach is never right, but sometimes it will get you by. Just depends on how much you care about it.
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Old 12-28-2012, 10:40 AM
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I didnt sa it wouldn't run, I said it would be rusty. Pop the heads off an enigne that sat for a long time (years) and you'll see rust in the cylinders. .
think you missed a post or two..

but I figured I'd be pulling it apart..
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Old 12-28-2012, 03:39 PM
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Borrow a boroscope and look at the cylinders. I doubt there is anything by your description of backing off the valves and turning it over yearly. I would be inclined to change the oil and use some break in additive and prime it thoroughly while rotating the engine by hand.
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Old 12-28-2012, 05:07 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by gearheadslife View Post
Hello, I have a built up 355 that I screwed together in 1991-2
and after fitting engine in car.. car was totalled.. before it was fired..
(ever see an unmanned ford f-250 oilburner and a granny low crawl , I have)
anyways, I used moly lube on the cam /lifter/bearings/etc..
it's been 20+ years, is the lube on the bearings gonna be a died up mess, ?
why to I have a feeling I'm gonna be pulling this engine totally apart...

and what to use to get the lube off the bearing if dried, as not to hurt the bearing..

fill the oil pan with carb cleaner and use a priming tool to clear it all out..
lol.. is what my dad jokingly said.. " you got nothing to loose,you haven't used it in 20 years" I'm like the parts where big money, um,, no!!!!!
but ,I also was like hum, I wonder..

I'm pulling this thing down, correct,
WELL !! You already know the answer !! yes and yes ....... pull it apart wash it up real good ... relubricate
and pray you put it together proper the first time lol
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Old 12-28-2012, 05:09 PM
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OH !! buy a can of GM EOS for it too !! hint hint wink wink
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