Mopar Rod Bearing Oil squirter Notch - Hot Rod Forum : Hotrodders Bulletin Board
Hotrodders.com -- Hot Rod Forum



Register FAQ Search Today's Posts Unanswered Posts Auto Escrow Insurance Auto Loans
Hot Rod Forum : Hotrodders Bulletin Board > Tech Help> Engine
User Name
Password
lost password?   |   register now

Reply
 
LinkBack Thread Tools
  #1 (permalink)  
Old 10-25-2010, 07:21 AM
LATECH's Avatar
Hotrodders.com Moderator
 

Last journal entry: Motor - vator
Last photo:
Join Date: Jul 2010
Location: Northeast Pennsylvania
Posts: 5,180
Wiki Edits: 0

Thanks: 199
Thanked 252 Times in 234 Posts
Mopar Rod Bearing Oil squirter Notch

Building a 360 dodge from a 2000 dodge 1500 pickup. The 360 rod bearings have a notch to spray oil , probably on wrist pin. The new clevite bearings do not have it. What is its true purpose and will not having it cause damage. Looks to me like having it there is a problem as the motor has about 60K on it and the rods were allready on the bronze.The mains were in great shape.
Looks like the rods are starving for pressure.

    Advertisement
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
  #2 (permalink)  
Old 10-25-2010, 07:39 AM
cobalt327's Avatar
WFO
 
Last wiki edit: Intake manifold
Last journal entry: 1980 Malibu Wagon
Last photo:
Join Date: Mar 2009
Location: Atlanta
Age: 59
Posts: 5,037
Wiki Edits: 1616

Thanks: 128
Thanked 597 Times in 546 Posts
According to Ma MOPAR, "Each Bearing cap has a small "V" groove across the parting surface. When installing the lower bearing shell, make certain that the "V" groove in the shell is inline with the "V" groove in the cap. This provides lubrication of the cylinder wall in the opposite bank."

This isn't thought to be necessary. Many engines through the years used "spit holes", etc. for flinging oil around (most didn't keep them, though- excepting "new" engines w/dedicated piston oiling shooters and the like), but as long as the rood side clearances are in spec and the same for the lifter to lifter bore, the cam and cylinders will get all the lube they need.

Last edited by cobalt327; 10-25-2010 at 07:47 AM.
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
  #3 (permalink)  
Old 10-25-2010, 08:04 AM
LATECH's Avatar
Hotrodders.com Moderator
 

Last journal entry: Motor - vator
Last photo:
Join Date: Jul 2010
Location: Northeast Pennsylvania
Posts: 5,180
Wiki Edits: 0

Thanks: 199
Thanked 252 Times in 234 Posts
Thanks Cobalt. Makes good sense what you said. My thinking was to ignore it being missing.Probably wont make any difference.
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
  #4 (permalink)  
Old 10-25-2010, 08:27 AM
Registered User
 
Last wiki edit: Mopar tapered axle rear brake conversion
Last journal entry: What I'm doing now...
Last photo:
Join Date: Jan 2002
Posts: 4,267
Wiki Edits: 49

Thanks: 0
Thanked 4 Times in 4 Posts
If it was me, I'd take my Clevite bearings back and stop by the local Mopar store and pick up a set you know will be right. You may be fine with the bearings you have but those spitter holes are there for a reason and why take a chance. My $.02 anyway.
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
  #5 (permalink)  
Old 10-25-2010, 08:44 AM
LATECH's Avatar
Hotrodders.com Moderator
 

Last journal entry: Motor - vator
Last photo:
Join Date: Jul 2010
Location: Northeast Pennsylvania
Posts: 5,180
Wiki Edits: 0

Thanks: 199
Thanked 252 Times in 234 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by Centerline
You may be fine with the bearings you have but those spitter holes are there for a reason and why take a chance.

I was trying to find out what there purpose was and if it was effective. Any Idea?
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
  #6 (permalink)  
Old 10-25-2010, 10:37 AM
LATECH's Avatar
Hotrodders.com Moderator
 

Last journal entry: Motor - vator
Last photo:
Join Date: Jul 2010
Location: Northeast Pennsylvania
Posts: 5,180
Wiki Edits: 0

Thanks: 199
Thanked 252 Times in 234 Posts
Thanks again cobalt. Looks like we are opting to run the non notched version. It worked well for years why change now?
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
  #7 (permalink)  
Old 10-25-2010, 04:10 PM
cobalt327's Avatar
WFO
 
Last wiki edit: Intake manifold
Last journal entry: 1980 Malibu Wagon
Last photo:
Join Date: Mar 2009
Location: Atlanta
Age: 59
Posts: 5,037
Wiki Edits: 1616

Thanks: 128
Thanked 597 Times in 546 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by latech
Thanks again cobalt. Looks like we are opting to run the non notched version. It worked well for years why change now?
Are the rods also notched? Below is a Hemi rod and bearing:



The PAGE also mentions the spit hole is there to hit the thrust side of the bore and cam w/oil. But I don't see bearings offered w/the holes already in them...
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
  #8 (permalink)  
Old 10-25-2010, 04:52 PM
Registered User
 
Last wiki edit: Mopar tapered axle rear brake conversion
Last journal entry: What I'm doing now...
Last photo:
Join Date: Jan 2002
Posts: 4,267
Wiki Edits: 49

Thanks: 0
Thanked 4 Times in 4 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by cobalt327
This PAGE also mentions the spit hole is there to hit the thrust side of the bore and cam w/oil. But I don't see bearings offered w/the holes already in them...
Thanks for referencing my web site for that pic. Didn't want to blow my own horn.

Centerline
HotRodsAndHemis.com

"Instructions are just the manufacturers opinion of how it should be put together". - Tim Allen
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
  #9 (permalink)  
Old 10-25-2010, 06:01 PM
LATECH's Avatar
Hotrodders.com Moderator
 

Last journal entry: Motor - vator
Last photo:
Join Date: Jul 2010
Location: Northeast Pennsylvania
Posts: 5,180
Wiki Edits: 0

Thanks: 199
Thanked 252 Times in 234 Posts
Yes, the cap is machined with the groove in it.The bearings are also worn as What I suspect is due to excess leakage. JMO.The main bearings looked so good they could have been re used (but wont be)
Centerline... My concern is that the bearings will shed oil too fast with the spit hole present and with the centrifical force of the crank throw sheds oil faster than would a main that is stationary. Given the mains condition and the fact the bronze was showing on the rod bearings I suspect oil is being let go of too fast.
I suppose a high volume pump may help.What are youre thoughts on the condition of the bearings?

Last edited by latech; 10-25-2010 at 06:13 PM.
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
  #10 (permalink)  
Old 10-25-2010, 07:28 PM
Registered User
 
Last wiki edit: Mopar tapered axle rear brake conversion
Last journal entry: What I'm doing now...
Last photo:
Join Date: Jan 2002
Posts: 4,267
Wiki Edits: 49

Thanks: 0
Thanked 4 Times in 4 Posts
There are a lot of things that can cause rod bearings to "wear out" and oil starvation is one of them. However, IMHO the spitter holes would not starve the bearings of oil. They were put in there to lubricate the cylinder wall probably because the engineers weren't convinced there would be enough oil splashing on them to do the job. Ma Mopar has been doing this for over 50 years so it might just be something that has carried over "just because its always been done that way". My only point is that if it were me and I was spending the money for a rebuild I'd use bearings that had the notch just to be safe. That said, even if you don't you'll probably be OK.
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
  #11 (permalink)  
Old 10-26-2010, 01:46 PM
cobalt327's Avatar
WFO
 
Last wiki edit: Intake manifold
Last journal entry: 1980 Malibu Wagon
Last photo:
Join Date: Mar 2009
Location: Atlanta
Age: 59
Posts: 5,037
Wiki Edits: 1616

Thanks: 128
Thanked 597 Times in 546 Posts
I'm a little miffed that there seems to be so little mention of this on the interweb. If this was a Chevy "problem", there'd be reams of BS on it...

In any event, I would agree that if there were a problem w/not using the notched bearings, the bearing makers (like Cleveite) would supply both styles.

If it is a concern, you could add a few psi of oil pressure to offset the losses through the notches. I seriously doubt the notches by themselves would warrant a HV pump, but if you're using a pump w/higher psi OR volume than OEM- that will certainly offset that part of the equation.

As for the lubing of the cylinder walls, I would tend to think the 'benefit' would be mostly at low RPM.
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
  #12 (permalink)  
Old 10-26-2010, 07:14 PM
LATECH's Avatar
Hotrodders.com Moderator
 

Last journal entry: Motor - vator
Last photo:
Join Date: Jul 2010
Location: Northeast Pennsylvania
Posts: 5,180
Wiki Edits: 0

Thanks: 199
Thanked 252 Times in 234 Posts
I agree there should have been more chatter about this subject.As it is a mopar it is ignored.This could be an applicable discussion for any engine type.
Clevite finally got back to us and said to run them, no problem.
I have seen where some race guys notch the main thrust bearing on pontiac engines (full out race motors not street motors) to help keep the journal oiled. Oiling is essential to all engines, not just chevrolets

As far as lube for the cylinder walls, It looks as though brad penn will keep enough zddp in there to take care of any minor issue that the oem was trying to compensate for at low rpm.After all this was a 2000 dodge engine so no zinc in there.They bottle that stuff just a few miles from my house
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message

Recent Engine posts with photos

Quick Reply
Message:
Options

Register Now

In order to be able to post messages on the Hot Rod Forum : Hotrodders Bulletin Board forums, you must first register.
Please enter your desired user name (usually not your first and last name), your email address and other required details in the form below.
User Name:
If you do not want to register, fill this field only and the name will be used as user name for your post.
Password
Please enter a password for your user account. Note that passwords are case-sensitive.
Password:
Confirm Password:
Email Address
Please enter a valid email address for yourself.
Email Address:

Log-in

Human Verification

In order to verify that you are a human and not a spam bot, please enter the answer into the following box below based on the instructions contained in the graphic.




Currently Active Users Viewing This Thread: 1 (0 members and 1 guests)
 
Thread Tools

Posting Rules
You may post new threads
You may post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are On
Pingbacks are On
Refbacks are On


Similar Threads
Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
Chevy 6.5 Diesel has no oil pressure again!!! dorksrock Engine 12 09-02-2012 08:51 PM
high volume and high pressure oil pumps can destroy cam and distributor gears! Knobie Engine 75 02-13-2011 02:22 PM
Cam Bearing oil hole alignment morenoer Engine 3 04-06-2009 12:55 PM
Need rod bearing help ASAP! PLZ CustomConspiracy Engine 13 12-01-2008 02:46 AM
Is it no good to have a High volume oil pump? Calderone Engine 17 01-31-2008 05:26 PM


All times are GMT -6. The time now is 07:17 PM.


Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.7
Copyright ©2000 - 2014, vBulletin Solutions, Inc.
Search Engine Optimization by vBSEO 3.6.0 PL2
Copyright Hotrodders.com 1999 - 2012. All Rights Reserved.