More Brake Questions - Help Needed Here - Hot Rod Forum : Hotrodders Bulletin Board
Hotrodders.com -- Hot Rod Forum



Register FAQ Search Today's Posts Unanswered Posts Auto Escrow Insurance Auto Loans
Hot Rod Forum : Hotrodders Bulletin Board > Tech Help> Suspension - Brakes - Steering
User Name
Password
lost password?   |   register now

Reply
 
LinkBack Thread Tools
  #1 (permalink)  
Old 02-21-2009, 08:16 PM
S10 Racer's Avatar
http://www.warsprints.com
 

Last journal entry: W.A.R. (Wingless Auto Racing) Sprint Car Racing
Last photo:
Join Date: Nov 2007
Location: At The Dirt Tracks
Age: 55
Posts: 1,938
Wiki Edits: 0

Thanks: 4
Thanked 74 Times in 66 Posts
More Brake Questions - Help Needed Here

Ok, I have asked a similar question before but I am still confused. I converted my 80's power brakes to a 70's Dual Manual MC. My project has front disc and rear drum brakes. I have a Wilwood Proportioning valve that I was told I need for the rear drums to be able to adjust the pressure. I was also told that I need a metering valve (?). This is where I get confused. Can't I simply run a line from the large side of the MC to a tee fitting and then to each front brake and then from the small side of the MC to the Wilwood proportioning valve to a tee and then to each rear brake? Do I need a "metering" valve at all or am I missing something?

    Advertisement
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
  #2 (permalink)  
Old 02-21-2009, 09:15 PM
richard stewart 3rd's Avatar
Registered User
 

Last journal entry: 351W rebuild
Last photo:
Join Date: Jan 2006
Location: tremont, pa.
Age: 70
Posts: 2,218
Wiki Edits: 0

Thanks: 14
Thanked 15 Times in 14 Posts
Hi,
The proportioning valve only controls rear wheel lock up, & then only during a panic stop.

A metering valve slows the application of the front disc when you have a disc drum setup, because when you apply the breaks it takes longer for the drum breaks to react, the fluid pressure has to overcome the break return springs, were the disc will apply instantly. so yes you do need one.
Rich
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
  #3 (permalink)  
Old 02-22-2009, 07:37 PM
Cape Cod Bob's Avatar
Registered User
 
Last wiki edit: How to title a hot rod Last photo:
Join Date: Jul 2007
Location: MA
Posts: 1,140
Wiki Edits: 1

Thanks: 0
Thanked 30 Times in 20 Posts
Check here and oder their catalog. There is good info and good drawings in it. http://www.mpbrakes.com/
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
  #4 (permalink)  
Old 02-22-2009, 09:27 PM
NEW INTERIORS's Avatar
Believe in yourself !!!!!!
 

Last journal entry: 41 WILLYS FRAME
Last photo:
Join Date: Jul 2007
Location: In My Shop..
Age: 49
Posts: 10,296
Wiki Edits: 0

Thanks: 1,440
Thanked 690 Times in 507 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by S10 Racer
Ok, I have asked a similar question before but I am still confused. I converted my 80's power brakes to a 70's Dual Manual MC. My project has front disc and rear drum brakes. I have a Wilwood Proportioning valve that I was told I need for the rear drums to be able to adjust the pressure. Can't I simply run a line from the large side of the MC to a tee fitting and then to each front brake and then from the small side of the MC to the Wilwood proportioning valve to a tee and then to each rear brake?
I have ran many car's this way with no problem's. With just the Proportioning valve in-between the MC and the rear brakes..Now that's only if it is mounted on the fire wall.If you go under the car with the MC,Then be sure to add the Residual Valves,
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
  #5 (permalink)  
Old 02-23-2009, 03:50 AM
S10 Racer's Avatar
http://www.warsprints.com
 

Last journal entry: W.A.R. (Wingless Auto Racing) Sprint Car Racing
Last photo:
Join Date: Nov 2007
Location: At The Dirt Tracks
Age: 55
Posts: 1,938
Wiki Edits: 0

Thanks: 4
Thanked 74 Times in 66 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by NEW INTERIORS
I have ran many car's this way with no problem's. With just the Proportioning valve in-between the MC and the rear brakes..Now that's only if it is mounted on the fire wall.If you go under the car with the MC,Then be sure to add the Residual Valves,
Ok, so what you are sying is that I "really" don't need a combination valve. The MC is mounted on the firewall in it's original location. I have a 10# residual valve also. I am thinking that I may have to install that with the proportional valve to the rear brakes because of the spring pressure, correct?
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
  #6 (permalink)  
Old 02-23-2009, 09:11 PM
Member
 
Last photo:
Join Date: Feb 2005
Location: chillicothe oh
Age: 47
Posts: 1,445
Wiki Edits: 0

Thanks: 0
Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts
Yes you would likely need the 10 lb valve for drums.However your best bet may be reinstalling the stock propotioning valve should work fine and will take a lot of guess work out of the equation.You could also plumb your adjustable valve after the stock valve in line to the rears then if your new brakes are more efficient than the originals you can dial them back a bit.This will also let you keep the safety features designed in the stock valve such as a brake failure warning light. And the feature of the shuttle valve closing off the leaking part of the system if a line breaks.This will allow you to stop safely if a failure occurs albeit in a longer distance 1/2 a brake system is better than none.
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
  #7 (permalink)  
Old 02-23-2009, 09:28 PM
NEW INTERIORS's Avatar
Believe in yourself !!!!!!
 

Last journal entry: 41 WILLYS FRAME
Last photo:
Join Date: Jul 2007
Location: In My Shop..
Age: 49
Posts: 10,296
Wiki Edits: 0

Thanks: 1,440
Thanked 690 Times in 507 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by S10 Racer
Ok, so what you are sying is that I "really" don't need a combination valve. The MC is mounted on the firewall in it's original location. I have a 10# residual valve also. I am thinking that I may have to install that with the proportional valve to the rear brakes because of the spring pressure, correct?

The Residual valve is only used when you mount the MC under the floor,To stop the fluid from bleeding back to the MC,Like I said,I only use a adjustable Proportional valve.No combination valve.There will be some that say different,But I have ran this set up on about 6 cars with no problem's.And the only time I ever heard of a Residual valve on a hot rod,Is when the MC is under the car,And not on the fire wall,Because when it's under the car it's usually below the wheel cylinder.. But I'm sure you will hear 100 ways to do this.Good luck..
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
  #8 (permalink)  
Old 02-23-2009, 10:32 PM
kleen56's Avatar
Registered User
 
Last photo:
Join Date: Oct 2006
Location: Santa Clarita CA
Posts: 802
Wiki Edits: 0

Thanks: 4
Thanked 6 Times in 6 Posts
I agree with INTERIORS, I only ran a proportioning valve to the rear lines when I ran disc in front and drum in the rear. I never installed residual valves and my brakes work great. You only need the residual valves if the MC is mounted on the frame, lower than the brakes or level. With the MC up on the firewall, gravity is in your favor. Some MC's have the residual valve built in the unit where the brake lines connect up. Particularly on a disc/ drum master cylinder setup.
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
  #9 (permalink)  
Old 03-05-2009, 02:11 AM
Member
 
Last wiki edit: Vacuum brake bleeder set up
Join Date: Nov 2003
Location: So Cal
Posts: 1,245
Wiki Edits: 8

Thanks: 0
Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts
You are going to want to swap on older "metric" calipers to go with that master cylinder. Your calipers are low-drag and retract the pistons. That is why you had the step-bore (aka quick take-up) MC from the factory. GM started making the change in 83 so get pre-83 front calipers.

Why didn't you just swap in manual brake S10 parts?
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
  #10 (permalink)  
Old 03-07-2009, 11:47 AM
aosborn's Avatar
Registered User
 
Last wiki edit: Suspension: designs, shapes, sizes Last photo:
Join Date: Oct 2008
Location: Lakewood, WA
Posts: 621
Wiki Edits: 7

Thanks: 0
Thanked 17 Times in 16 Posts
Any time you have an axle with drum brakes, you need to install a 10# residual pressure check valve if there isn't one built into the master cylinder. The check valve keeps a small amount of pressure on the seals in the wheel cylinders to keep them from leaking.

In your case, I would check the master cylinder on the drum brake port for a check valve (lightly insert a small dia rod and check for an obstruction). If the rod only goes in 1/8-1/4 inch there is a check valve. If not, install one in the line near the master cylinder. Install the adjustable proportioning valve in the rear line and adjust it fully open for testing. MAKE SURE THERE ISN'T A CHECK VALVE IN THE PORT FOR THE DISK BRAKE END OF THE TRUCK!

Installing a factory style combination valve can be a crap shoot if it will work well with your vehicle. Different axle weights, tire sizes etc are all a factor in determining what combo valve to use. That is why I use the adjustable valve instead in the rear line for all my custom builds.

Andy
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message

Recent Suspension - Brakes - Steering posts with photos

Quick Reply
Message:
Options

Register Now

In order to be able to post messages on the Hot Rod Forum : Hotrodders Bulletin Board forums, you must first register.
Please enter your desired user name (usually not your first and last name), your email address and other required details in the form below.
User Name:
Password
Please enter a password for your user account. Note that passwords are case-sensitive.
Password:
Confirm Password:
Email Address
Please enter a valid email address for yourself.
Email Address:

Log-in

Human Verification

In order to verify that you are a human and not a spam bot, please enter the answer into the following box below based on the instructions contained in the graphic.




Currently Active Users Viewing This Thread: 1 (0 members and 1 guests)
 
Thread Tools

Posting Rules
You may post new threads
You may post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are On
Pingbacks are On
Refbacks are On


Similar Threads
Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
Rear Disc Brake Info Needed Camaro6.6L Suspension - Brakes - Steering 7 02-15-2009 07:42 PM
questions about moderators needed Brian_B Hotrodders Site Suggestions and Help 24 04-18-2007 04:51 PM
95-01 Explorer rear disc brake questions baddbob Suspension - Brakes - Steering 9 02-10-2005 10:19 PM
Wheel clunking and brake squeal skizot Suspension - Brakes - Steering 29 10-09-2004 07:17 AM
Brake Questions Bugatow Suspension - Brakes - Steering 3 08-22-2003 10:37 AM


All times are GMT -6. The time now is 04:49 AM.


Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.7
Copyright ©2000 - 2014, vBulletin Solutions, Inc.
Search Engine Optimization by vBSEO 3.6.0 PL2
Copyright Hotrodders.com 1999 - 2012. All Rights Reserved.