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Old 06-09-2013, 03:15 AM
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more clear woes

So all of a sudden the clear isn't wanting to lay properly,my last job it laid like glass.Well I'm getting ready to go @ a bike I'm building& I'm doing the tins(fenders,gas&oil tank) in black.I've lately been using summits med clear as its cheap&I get ok results.I always get light op but the peel is* nomore than factory orange peel&most everyone can live with that but I don't want it on my own.And like I said last job went like glass!&I know what you guys are gonna say get spi! Lol I will when I get into doing more higher end stuff.
******** But right now it's like factory orange peel& then glass op then glass&everyone says well just cut&buff idk if I still can't get it right of what but I cut&buffd all I could today on a practice panel&it looked like crap.I was searching the forums & I saw some guys reduce the clear by 2% but will that world for me as sometimes I have it sometimes I don't.I'm thinking improper gun technique.My primer&base laid like a pancake.Its like if I go slow&6 inches away no peel but runs too fast or top far peel.So I'm thinking I just have to find the sweet spot.
So a few questions,first is how fast&how many inches do you suggest I shoot @ ? I'm using devilish flg4 with 30 lbs trigger squeezes 120@comp do you suggest anything else?& what tip the 1.3 or 1.5 I like the 1.5 also tips on how to cut&buff?I use the mcquires med cut&show glaze/polish. Also thinking about upgrading to the satajet but kinda think that won't solve the problem.Please help me all that you can.What I plan on doing next is in a day or two I'm preping every panel I have&practice practice practice


******** Please excuse any typos or terseness: this email was sent from my mobile and I have clumsy fingers.
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Old 06-09-2013, 08:48 AM
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Thats just the nature of the cheaper clears, better clears are actually harder to get runs....good clears are actually cheaper to use ...
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Old 06-09-2013, 08:59 AM
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Also keep in mind that the temps are going up and will affect how it lays down if you are still using the same reducer or activator as the last job. Well that is assuming you don't have a climate controlled paint booth....... As for the tip question, I would use the 1.5 mainly because I have always used that size tip for clear, but also because some of the higher solids clears (SPI 1:1) won't spray well, if at all, through a 1.3. Play with the air pressure on some test panels. Best of luck to you. Again this is all just my opinion.

Kelly
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Old 06-09-2013, 09:09 PM
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X-2
when the time comes to cut and buff for the first timer mabee use 1500 to sand ,stay away from the edges and bodylines so you dont accidently burn through the paint and TAKE YOUR TIME....
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Old 06-09-2013, 09:31 PM
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I fooled around today on a few test panels got really good results,just a run or two I just can't get the correct combo of distance&speed.But I have a half gallon of clear to practice with....a little of the subject but it seems no matter what I do when it comes to single stage I just can't get that stuff to come out looking half way decent @ all.I know guys that only use it&they do some nice work.I just orderd a bunch of it in diffrent colors it all looked terrible.I'm thinking I need to reduce Also what are your thoughts on reducing
clear coat to get to lay flatter..again I know one my problem is I haven't hit the correct combo.
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Old 06-09-2013, 10:34 PM
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sounds like you need to check the temp of reducer. medium or high temp stay away from slow.also bump up pressure at gun a tad maybe 35 or 40. it dose take practice with this newer paints.
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Old 06-13-2013, 01:15 PM
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SS and BC/CC are two different animals. To get nice results with SS I usually find that I have to spray a little slower than with most clears. Best thing to do is practice as much as you can. If you put enough SS or CC on yuo can almost always sand and buff to the desired look, just may take longer. I highly recommend staying with solid colors in SS, atleast until you get comfortbale spraying it and with the end results. Metallics and pearls are a whole different problem when it comes to SS with runs, sags, and cut/buffing. As for reducing the clears, becareful there also. Make sure the clear is designed to be reduced if needed. If you reduce a clear that doesn't use a reducer, you may get by with it, but it may also solvent pop or the shine may die back after a little while.

Also just a thought, if you know any painters in your area, maybe you could go by their shop or have them come by yours and see what problems you are having. Sometimes seeing the problems is a lot easier to make suggestions on how to correct it.

Kelly
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Old 06-13-2013, 09:20 PM
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Originally Posted by Anthonyaa View Post
sounds like you need to check the temp of reducer. medium or high temp stay away from slow.also bump up pressure at gun a tad maybe 35 or 40. it dose take practice with this newer paints.
why would you NOT recommend slow reducer for high temps????
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Old 06-14-2013, 07:42 AM
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i only use slow and very slow. i keep some med for touch ups.
and high temp is slow .
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Old 06-14-2013, 04:17 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Lizer View Post
why would you NOT recommend slow reducer for high temps????
I always thought high temp was slow reducer and cold temp was fast reducer, I think some wording must have gotten misunderstood?
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Old 06-14-2013, 04:25 PM
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Originally Posted by Old Fool View Post
I always thought high temp was slow reducer and cold temp was fast reducer, I think some wording must have gotten misunderstood?
I'm with you
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Old 06-14-2013, 09:08 PM
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Originally Posted by Old Fool View Post
I always thought high temp was slow reducer and cold temp was fast reducer, I think some wording must have gotten misunderstood?
high temp is slower, to slow down the solvent evaporation rate since they will evaporate faster when hotter.

Above Anthony said 'med or high temp stay away from slow.'

However, as Shine said, I was taught to just always use slow regardless.
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