[horvath]

Thanks, Dan. So ... I should be Dremeling (I like the word!) only on one side of the seam? Not both sides?

LOL! Man, we are just pummeling you with questions, but I have another (speaking about the seam location) -- when you cut out your patterns in cardboard, do you cut where the seam goes? I cut my patterns a half-inch bigger and mark where the seams will go ... but I think that's wrong.

Also, what do you use to mark your material with? A couple of my uncles and my grandfather were tailors and they used soap!

Re: Books -- I have Taylor & Mangus' Custom Auto Interiors and I have Taylor's Automotive Upholstery Handbook ... if you want to suggest others, I'd sure be interested.

[DanTwoLakes]

I would Dremel it down over the entire area where the seam is folded down, about 1 1/4" that would let the whole works lay almost as flat as the rest of the leather. Give it a try with a piece of Mr. Moose and report back. You're going to love this next answer: A lot of guys use a Sharpie pen to mark on vinyl or leather, but that's permanent and won't come off, so they may mark the reverse side which can be confusing, because then your parts are upside down. What I use now, is a long retractable Fisher pen that has silver ink which can be removed with a little water. That way I can mark on the top side and still be able to correct mistakes. The part number is R80SL. They are available online, but I get mine from one of my suppliers. (Fisher is the guy who invented the Space Pen, originally designed for the astronauts because it would write at any angle and in zero gravity. The Russians just used a pencil.) I make my patterns to include the seam allowance, 1/2", but I don't mark where the seam goes on the fabric. I trust my eye to tell me where to sew my 1/2" seam. If it makes you comfortable to do that, go ahead. I have a tapped hole in the cover over my bobbin case to the right of the needle where I can attach a seam guide. This is a piece of metal that can be adjusted to any width. You just set it to the width you want and guide the outside edge of the fabric along it. I think it's just in the way, and is a pain in the A**. Other guys just put a 2 or 3" piece of masking tape down 1/2" to the right of the needle and follow that.

[horvath]

Thanks, Dan. I'll report back about the dremeling.

I just put a 1/8th-inch strip of masking tape at the half-inch mark (right of my needle) -- cool!

[armysniper]

Originally Posted by horvath

I also have a leather-working tool called a skiver that employs a curved razor blade to shave the back side of the leather but I think a dremel may be quicker and more accurate in shaving a clean line ... I don't know but I'll be finding out soon enough.

There is also a skiver that is a bit larger. If you have ever seen a tool that rolls sheet metal, it looks similar, but with a blade on one side. It allows you to skive large pieces and evenly. Great tool, and trick of the trade.

[DanTwoLakes]

Another way would be to put down a wide piece of masking tape and draw a black line on it 1/2" away from the needle. I've seen it done many ways. About the books: I have those two and two others that are out of print. They were starting to get dated, anyway. Tell me if you agree: I thought the Mangus Taylor book had a lot of info, but they never completed just one thing in a chapter. For example: I would have liked to see them do one door panel from beginning to end, not parts of 6 door panels.

[horvath]

Originally Posted by armysniper

There is also a skiver that is a bit larger. If you have ever seen a tool that rolls sheet metal, it looks similar, but with a blade on one side. It allows you to skive large pieces and evenly. Great tool, and trick of the trade.

Cool! Do you have a link to one on the web? Or is there a brand name or something to search for?

[horvath]

Originally Posted by DanTwoLakes

Tell me if you agree: I thought the Mangus Taylor book had a lot of info, but they never completed just one thing in a chapter. For example: I would have liked to see them do one door panel from beginning to end, not parts of 6 door panels.

I agree, totally, Dan. It's like they're showing techniques rather than processes.

I'd love to find a gig as a gopher at a trim shop, just so I could watch and learn for a while!

[armysniper]

Originally Posted by horvath

Cool! Do you have a link to one on the web? Or is there a brand name or something to search for?

If you have a Tandy leather store in your area, they carry smaller units that would be more suited for your liking.

Originally Posted by horvath

I'd love to find a gig as a gopher at a trim shop, just so I could watch and learn for a while!

I did just that. I worked for three years as an apprentice, for a guy with like 35 years experience. I did not make a dime in money, but became rich with knowledge! (still have alot to learn though) My wife hated it, but I knew it would come in handy someday.

[horvath]

Originally Posted by armysniper

If you have a Tandy leather store in your area, they carry smaller units that would be more suited for your liking.

Hmmm ... I've combed through Tandy's online cat -- http://www.leatherfactory.com/ -- and never saw it?

I'll look more diligently.

[armysniper]

Originally Posted by horvath

Hmmm ... I've combed through Tandy's online cat -- http://www.leatherfactory.com/ -- and never saw it?

I'll look more diligently.

part numbers
3792-00 This si an osborne product. They make great tools. Model 84
3790-00 I am not to sure about this one. They call it their ecomical version. the blade is 4-3/4"

[horvath]

Thanks, armysniper

Wow ... $500 for an 8-inch skiver!

3790-00 is the same deal ... only it's 4.5 inches instead of 8.

I'll stick with the dremel ... for now, anyway.

[DanTwoLakes]

Originally Posted by horvath

I'd love to find a gig as a gopher at a trim shop, just so I could watch and learn for a while!

I can set you up, Alan, But It's a long commute! I've actually got a better offer for you, but it will have to be in a private message. Watch for it.

[horvath]

Now you're talking about the very effect I've been trying to bring about; using a haevier/fatter thread for top or french stitches; something that pops.

Where can I buy some 138 or 240 size thread??? And ... will my Tacsew handle size 240?

PS - Please elaborate: I don't understand when you say that size 69 thread won't hold up. These nylon and poly threads are like steel!

[DanTwoLakes]

Alan: www.rochfordsupply.com. I hope he's talking about topstitching, 69 and 92 will hold just about anything together.

[horvath]

Thanks, Dan.

I see #138

What are T69, T92, T207, T277 & T415 Nylon threads all about? Are these each heavier/fatter in size (higher # = fatter)?