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  #31 (permalink)  
Old 02-13-2007, 02:22 PM
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They also have 207, it's under nylon closeouts I think. Yes, the higher the number the fatter the thread. The reason most people sew with 69 Nylon is that it's stronger than the fabric you're joining together. Using thread that is 5 times stronger than the fabric you're sewing together is not logical. Using heavier thread also means you need to wind your own bobbins instead of using pre-wound, and you'll be changing bobbins every 10 minutes. You need a larger needle to sew 138 and higher. Topstitching is another matter. Use whatever thread gives you the look you're after.

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  #32 (permalink)  
Old 02-13-2007, 02:44 PM
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I understand, Dan ... thanks to your previous explanations about stitching the material together with #69 and then having your way with top stitching.

I'm presently using leather needles; 140/22 ... would these be good with #69 as well as with #138 or #207?

What's with #415?? Is that rediculously fat or do you think it might be what I'm looking for? I guess I may as well buy a spool and learn for myself, eh?

PS -- What do you mean by winding your own bobbins instead of using pre-wound ... what's the difference? Aren't you always winding your own bobbins with the bobbin winder?
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  #33 (permalink)  
Old 02-13-2007, 04:05 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by horvath
PS -- What do you mean by winding your own bobbins instead of using pre-wound ... what's the difference? Aren't you always winding your own bobbins with the bobbin winder?
You can buy pre-wound bobbins in bulk. Saves time from winding your own. I usually keep a black, natural and white on hand.
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  #34 (permalink)  
Old 02-13-2007, 04:13 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by armysniper
You can buy pre-wound bobbins in bulk. Saves time from winding your own. I usually keep a black, natural and white on hand.
My Juki came with about 100 pre-wound bobbins - all white. The bobbins themselves are made out of a cardboard-like material, and I have no idea what they're wound with, but I still have 6 empty metal bobbins too. I'm guessing you'd use the pre-wound bobbins for common jobs, but if you need a certain color, you wind your own - am I right here Dan & Sniper? (Told you I'm a newby.)

For the record - you guys not only rock, you roll too!
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Old 02-13-2007, 05:18 PM
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Wow. Pre-wound bobbins ... for the busy trimmer, eh?

I'll start by winding the 6 I have, for now. I really dig the looks of my bobbin winder! LOL! It looks like something out of some kind of 1930s steam engine design.
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  #36 (permalink)  
Old 02-13-2007, 06:36 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by wolfmanhotrodder
you need a class 7 machine to handle 240 thread or 207 .... a typical walking foot upholstery machine class 2 as in consew 226 etc are not set up for 240 thread
So what is a class 7 machine? I'm gonna be seriously cheezed if I discover I have a machine that won't sew leather, vinyl, or even draperies.

Not that I even know what draperies are....
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Old 02-14-2007, 07:38 AM
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a class 7 is a heavy-duty sewing machine usally a long arm or deep throat with at lease a 1 inch lift and you will need a engine lift to move it I have 2 one is a 7-59 the other is a 7-57 by singer
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  #38 (permalink)  
Old 02-14-2007, 09:29 AM
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O.K. let's check this out. Is there anybody else out there who sews car seats for a living who thinks they need a machine that heavy for everyday use?
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Old 02-14-2007, 11:05 AM
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I just talked at length with a trimmer who has his own shop here in Jersey and also works in NY ... tons of experience ... and he said you do *not* need the long arms/heavy machines; in fact, that they are a pain in the butt - unless you have a real long arm-reach.
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  #40 (permalink)  
Old 02-14-2007, 11:52 AM
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Exactly right. Here's a picture of a 10 pound piece of steel railroad track suspended from my front door with one strand of nylon 69 sewing thread. Anybody think it won't hold up in a car seat?
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  #41 (permalink)  
Old 02-14-2007, 11:57 AM
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I have been keeping my eyes peeled for a long arm. Just so I don't have to roll up material in the machine. It'd be nice to have one. But I don't see the need for a super heavy machine. If you look at a rolls, bentley or anything high end fromt he factory you don't have that huge thread. In fact the stitch length of their french seams is more per inch then what I would consider normal.
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  #42 (permalink)  
Old 02-14-2007, 12:57 PM
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Yes, a long arm would be great, but even used ones are close to $3000. They are also clumsy to work with if you're sewing a lot. But for the right job.............super. The machines he has could repair shoes.
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  #43 (permalink)  
Old 02-14-2007, 01:28 PM
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Thats why I was explaining to Alan I prefer to use our class machine stretched to 20" instead of a bigger class machine you don't sew at all the time.(this way you can use it for all your work,seats,carpets ,panels, tops)
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  #44 (permalink)  
Old 02-14-2007, 02:00 PM
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You are exactly right. I don't know about you, but I have never not been able to sew something with my machines. The only thing that will stop you is something too thick to go under the foot. You wouldn't want to sew extra thick stuff all day every day, but it will handle it for a short run.
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  #45 (permalink)  
Old 02-14-2007, 05:11 PM
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i need a quick rundown...

can someone point me in the direction of uphostery work? i really want to try this but i dont know where to start. what would i need to get started? anyone know of a good tutorial or rundown on getting started? i know some terms but dont know what they mean...like top stiching, french seam, etc. can i use a home sewing machine with a different needle or do i need like an industrial size machine? i want to redo the interior of my towncar.
thanks guys!!! man i love this site!!!
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